Cam's FJ60 Gets a Heart Transplant

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Very true. I just want to see it.

Speaking of shifting, @Elbert - I'm finding that I don't need a gear indicator with this shifter. It's quickly becoming intuitive, and has a few "stops" built in that require a push of the button to shift past.

After all the hassles of installing it, I really like this one.
 
How hot should an auto trans get? The trans cooler is getting hotter than I imagined (don't know why, I have no point of reference). It's about the same as the radiator. The coolant was holding at 194 when we checked it.

I'll measure it with an IR gun.

What about PS fluid? I'll measure that too.
 
That's an issue for sure. Tranny temps have always been the bane of my swaps.

One thing people try is running the engine and tranny I the same cooler and the engine in Gen 3 can run 230* and the tranny needs to be 190-200

I ran separate coolers with separate fans to cool mine
 
That's an issue for sure. Tranny temps have always been the bane of my swaps.

One thing people try is running the engine and tranny I the same cooler and the engine in Gen 3 can run 230* and the tranny needs to be 190-200

I ran separate coolers with separate fans to cool mine
thats right. my gas 2500hd has a factory trans temp gauge and the 4l80e gets to about 190-200 when I'm working it.
 
trans temp is relative to engine load and conditions..etc. Normal street driving...trans temps should generally be less than coolant temp. The gear indicator was a thing to just have...to know what gear the transmission is in...I assume with all the electronic stuff and the fact that the trans shifts electronically that might be an easy "do"..maybe not..just for display purposes. Off road in manual mode you might want to know what gear you are in...but that all depends on your preference. The 60 has a small frontal area for exposed radiator surface...if trans cooling is an issue you might need a larger cooler. Might surf around on some of the trans rebuild sites to see what is noted about trans temps.

Obviously trans temps increase with load and heavy 4wd use offroad. You want to make sure you TCC switch is operational..you can see that through a scan tool I'm pretty sure.
 
Here's a few exhaust shots. I'm running dual 2-1/4" into a Flowmaster 50-something with a single 3" outlet.

Getting the passenger side over to the drivers...

View attachment 1043155

I bought some nice flanges and copper gaskets from Columbia River Mandrel Bending so I can take the mid-pipes out if I need too.

I had him tuck the tailpipe up as high as possible and dump it out where I won't crush it. I've always crushed it when it comes out under the quarter panel.

View attachment 1043160

It's probably a little noisier dumping out like this, but I think it's a good compromise. I'm totally happy with his work.


my exhaust is similar around the transfer case.... you might get tired of the muffler "Sound".. I had a dual in dual out mangnaflow 2.5... it got to be be a little loud (sounded good..but was too loud). Recently I went with a stock type muffler you'll find on a GM pickup single in and dual out, used a managnaflow "y-pipe" to merge into muffler inlet. Turned out great... FYI if the muffler gets to you.
 
looks good....you'll be riding around with a crazy smile on your face all the time.... and then the world will change for you when can actually pass on a hill and even accelerate under power..."OH the HUMANITY!" :)
 
I had to add some tranny fluid this morning. I thought I had it full earlier, but I guess not. Maybe I had to fill up a secret spot inside the magic box. Now it "engages" more positively with less (no) slippage. That may have been the problem, if it actually was too warm before. I know it wasn't too hot though.

After some stop and go city driving, I measured the cooler with an IR temp gun, I had 150-ish coming in, and 135 going back out.

I'm doing external cooler only right now. I got one of the bigger ones. If it's not enough, I'll go through the radiator cooler also. I know you can have it too cool, so I want to avoid that.

I can't stress how badass this is. It drives and shifts great. The DBW pedal is invisible to me. Just hopping in and driving, I'd never know. I love it.

Whenever all the bugs have been worked out and I've got the AC hooked back up, this is for sure going to be my DD.
 
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The computer will shift the tranny when it needs to shift. No need to have a tach.

...

Whenever all the bugs have been worked out and I've got the AC hooked back up, this is for sure going to be my DD.

Unless you get creative with the wiring, you'll still need a tach signal to the A/C amplifier. The easiest way to do it is to just use the stock tach and hook up the one wire where it needs to go (I'm not 100% sure on a LS harness). That's what I'm doing with my 5.7 TBI swapped FJ60.

Very nice swap by the way. I've been watching it for a while. If my current engine ever gives up on me, I'll probably do a 5.3 LS swap myself.
 
I've got a tach output on my harness. From what I understand, if I connect this to my old coil neg. wire and connect my old old AC clutch trigger back up (maybe through a relay so it has good power) I should be good to go when I press the blue button.

The coil negative connection should send the signal wherever it needs to go to make it to the AC amplifier.

Does that sound right?
 
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I think you are good on the A/C... as previously discussed...

If you simply connect the OEM tach now...it will work (no connection required other than the a/c wiring...I was thinking your dash might be apart) (once you complete the wiring as noted in prior exchanges about A/C)... but the OEM tach is setup for I-6 engine. I know there is some mod where you wire in some type of resistor to get the OEM tach to work with GM v8 engine...I've never done that. My OEM tach works but it reads wrong due to the difference between V8 and I-6 signals.

On my engine harness I have a tach signal jumper..... I plan to use that to feed an aftermarket tach (which I've not yet done or explored). A number of people have used one of the autometer tachs and have made some mods to replace the OEM tach with the autometer (in the dash).

If you want the OEM tach to work with the V8...complete the wiring as previously discussed for A/C support, then you will have to research the mod that make the OEM tach work with the GM V8, its in one of the threads somewhere...but as I recall/note it involves some mod to the tach itself (installing a resistor?).

Recall that the settings on a tach are different based on the cylinders of the engine V8..6cylinder..etc
 
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More show off pics :grinpimp::grinpimp::grinpimp:

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post up details on how the wires are connected to the alternator...common issue on how to do that... what wires go to what terminals..etc.
 
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