Camping...... (1 Viewer)

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Breckenridge, Co
Hi - Newbie here - I've just bought a 2000 LC 100, 180k miles. Its totally standard, been well looked after and does not drop a spot of fluid on the driveway. Main reason for purchase was to be able to access rougher campsites with our pop-up camper - currently using a Yukon XL (which is good for towing but limited ground clearance). The mods I have identified that need done immediately before camping can commence are as follows:

1/ 7 pin electric tow socket (have a kit coming from etrailer) - includes an electronic brake controller
2/ Rear air bags (inside coil) to assist with camper tongue weight
3/ Remove running boards
4/ Replacing heater tees
5/ AT tires - 285/75/16

(Timing belt + water pump were done at 150k so should be good)

I'd like to put in the ubiquitous OME lift but probably down the road when I am feeling more flush....

I'm definitely not building an overland vehicle - the vehicle is a means to an end.... Now you have the background I'd very much appreciate your input re. relevant experience / suggestions. eg Is it necessary to remove the running boards? - much thx

ZyOXmzuMRauYBNm+PhJrIw.jpg
 
Joined
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Welcome. I'd browse through the FAQ and spend some time in the pic thread and what have you done this week thread. Those are great places for ideas on maintenance and what others have done with their rigs. As for the running boards, not "necessary" to remove them, most do as an appearance/clearance thing. Drive it as is and see if you need to.
 
Joined
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Dana Point/San Diego CA
Running boards, been there done that...

I would leave running boards on for following reasons:
A) act as an early warning system that your rocker panels are in danger. So what if u bang/bend 'em. Bending, unless extreme, won't hurt rps.
B) the step function is much appreciated.
C) RB armor , which u will probably get (especially when u lift...see b above), is heavy. Invest weight in area that will leave u stranded, skid plate/tranny plate, etc.
D!) RB are expensive...see c above.

I see u live in mountaineers area of col, its not if, but when u secum to the "just a little bit more" temptation of more challenge w/r to off-roading (vs over landing).

That's my story & I'm sticking to it...did I say been there...
 

JunkCrzr89

Competent Ignoramoose
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Probably want to replace AHC fluid, power steering fluid and the 3 gearbox fluids for piece of mind. 🙂
It does not have AHC...
Is it necessary to remove the running boards?
Not at all. If you have kids or a short wife, keep them on.

Your plan sounds good. Get the 7-pin and airbags setup, throw on some decent tires, and run it. Using it is the best way to find out what “mods” you truly do or do not need.

PS - That’s a great color!
 
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Ayune

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I got the same color! Mahagony Pearl.

A lift is certainly not ‘ubiquitous’, I’d say most folks run stock suspension and have plenty of capability with the larger 33” tires (285/75R16) and dialing in the front torsion bars.

And between my kids and <5’ wife my running boards are still on.

BTW, my wife says “he looks really happy” in your pic.
 

AlpineAccess

Overlanding is an expensive word for car camping.
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Hi - Newbie here - I've just bought a 2000 LC 100, 180k miles. Its totally standard, been well looked after and does not drop a spot of fluid on the driveway. Main reason for purchase was to be able to access rougher campsites with our pop-up camper - currently using a Yukon XL (which is good for towing but limited ground clearance). The mods I have identified that need done immediately before camping can commence are as follows:

1/ 7 pin electric tow socket (have a kit coming from etrailer) - includes an electronic brake controller
2/ Rear air bags (inside coil) to assist with camper tongue weight
3/ Remove running boards
4/ Replacing heater tees
5/ AT tires - 285/75/16

(Timing belt + water pump were done at 150k so should be good)

I'd like to put in the ubiquitous OME lift but probably down the road when I am feeling more flush....

I'm definitely not building an overland vehicle - the vehicle is a means to an end.... Now you have the background I'd very much appreciate your input re. relevant experience / suggestions. eg Is it necessary to remove the running boards? - much thx

View attachment 2375478
Looks like a nice setup!

If you're towing a trailer, thats the limitation as it stands. The cruiser will go just about anywhere out here stock that you need it to with some decent ATs.

There's a number of local land cruiser folks in breck with 100s that would also be thrilled to let you walk around their setups for ideas.

Keep up on fluids, maybe consider spraying a rust inhibitor underneath now that cdot is spraying mag chloride with how much traffic we have these days.

It will run for a long time, congrats on the purchase!
 
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If you don't plan to do some serious off-roading no need to remove the running boards. You are already gaining about 3" ground clearance moving up from the Yukon XL to the Land Cruiser with 33" tires, if you notice that you are starting to run trails where they are becoming a nuisance that's your sign to consider removing them and where that lift you are considering would be a nice upgrade as well.
 
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Thx for all the suggestions - sincerely appreciated. Yes I am v happy with the cruiser (unmolested). The - 'do the minimum philosophy and then use it' is definitely a good way to go. That’s good news about leaving the running boards - I like 'em and they will protect the bodywork. The tires will give me a wee lift - hadn't thought about that. Fluid change of the gbox/diffs is a good idea for sure.

Two other questions for you all:
- is the engine in my car 'safe' - ie if timing belt snaps are the valves wiped out, or is there clearance between valves and the pistons?
- Is it fitted with TPMS....?

Cheers
Jim
 

AlpineAccess

Overlanding is an expensive word for car camping.
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Thx for all the suggestions - sincerely appreciated. Yes I am v happy with the cruiser (unmolested). The - 'do the minimum philosophy and then use it' is definitely a good way to go. That’s good news about leaving the running boards - I like 'em and they will protect the bodywork. The tires will give me a wee lift - hadn't thought about that. Fluid change of the gbox/diffs is a good idea for sure.

Two other questions for you all:
- is the engine in my car 'safe' - ie if timing belt snaps are the valves wiped out, or is there clearance between valves and the pistons?
- Is it fitted with TPMS....?

Cheers
Jim

2uz is an interference motor. If the belt goes you may have valve damage. Interestingly there have been a few folks who have had timing belts skip teeth or fail and they were able to fire back up without issue with new belts. The belt is good insurance if its been neglected.

The earlier cruisers don't have TPMS, you can have an aftermarket system added if it's a concern.
 
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2uz is an interference motor. If the belt goes you may have valve damage. Interestingly there have been a few folks who have had timing belts skip teeth or fail and they were able to fire back up without issue with new belts. The belt is good insurance if its been neglected.

The earlier cruisers don't have TPMS, you can have an aftermarket system added if it's a concern.

Thx for this info - much appreciated
 

AlpineAccess

Overlanding is an expensive word for car camping.
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Thx for this info - much appreciated

If your belt was done at 150 btw, then you are all set for a long time. They aren't hard to do in fact, and if you network with the local Toyota 4x4 clubs out here you will find plenty of help when you choose to do your repairs.
 
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2uz is an interference motor. If the belt goes you may have valve damage. Interestingly there have been a few folks who have had timing belts skip teeth or fail and they were able to fire back up without issue with new belts. The belt is good insurance if its been neglected.

The earlier cruisers don't have TPMS, you can have an aftermarket system added if it's a concern.
From what I read on Mud the 98-05 (non vvti) 4.7's aren't interference but the 06-07 are.
 

AlpineAccess

Overlanding is an expensive word for car camping.
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From what I read on Mud the 98-05 (non vvti) 4.7's aren't interference but the 06-07 are.

That would be great if they weren't interference as I know many would extend change intervals. It's been confirmed that valve clearance is an issue, despite there being folks that have gotten lucky.

I definitely think the 90k interval is excessive. On my 4.7's the belts have always been nearly new looking at 90-100k. If it wasn't for replacing the water pumps at 90-100k due to weeping I would have pushed mine further as well.
 
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That would be great if they weren't interference - I think most of us here would push our change intervals a lot further. People have smoked early 2UZ's when belts and tensioners gave out though. There are stories of people getting lucky with belts jumping teeth or being installed a few degrees off though.

Show us one. I've been watching for this for years - one credible, documented case of non-VVT interference and have not been able to find one, in a rather large sampling of timing belt failures in literally all kinds of driving conditions and engines speeds.
 

AlpineAccess

Overlanding is an expensive word for car camping.
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Show us one. I've been watching for this for years - one credible, documented case of non-VVT interference and have not been able to find one, in a rather large sampling of timing belt failures in literally all kinds of driving conditions and engines speeds.

Okay. Here's a '99. Page two, post #31 he provides the update on results from a cruiser specific mechanic. Low compression #1, #2 sticking valves. Head job or swap.


I am absolutely, 100% on board with if you have a timing belt failure, do a leak down / compression test and throw a belt on to test it. They are incredibly durable, hence the number of people who have been successful in getting their motors back running after belt failures.
 
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Okay. Here's a '99. Page two, post #31 he provides the update on results from a cruiser specific mechanic. Low compression #1, #2 sticking valves. Head job or swap.


Read the whole thread and that looks like a classic false positive to me. The premature "worst case" diagnosis makes the shop look pretty sketchy too. Interference is having the timing belt break cause the pistons to hit the valves. Timing belt break in conjunction with some other engine problem is something else. It's likely that Toyota once proclaiming this to be an interference engine has contributed to false positives over the years, perhaps some in good faith. But people on this forum have turned this engine every which way and not been able to get the pistons to touch the valves. I'm still looking for a credible case.
 

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