Builds C Brown Sixty Build (2 Viewers)

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The little red cart makes this do able by one person. This Warren Wench is just perfect up here. Perfect.

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Also the thread title reminds me of the first time we met, on the side of the road in Texas, both of us cranking Panic in our Cruisers. 😎
 
Also the thread title reminds me of the first time we met, on the side of the road in Texas, both of us cranking Panic in our Cruisers. 😎

Early WSP is still in my rotation for sure. C Brown being my favorite non 1st album song…..
 
Thanks for getting me all the Dobinsons Jason. Always a good experience buying stuff through you. 💥

I did a few odds and ends and got my to do list down to one page

One last picture. City Racer wiper arm upgrade kit

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Other than a fluid film treatment I think I’m finished under the truck finally.

Fuel pump wired

I had broken one bolt on the skid plate so I had to put a rivnut there.

I love the factory FJ60 skid plate and that it still works with the H55. This one got blasted and powdered. It was nasty and crusty

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Can I pick your brain on throttle cables with the sniper? What length are you using? I’m having trouble getting mine to operate smoothly. The first one melted in the mountains. The stainless one works but has been sticky since I installed it. I think it’s too short. When you get to it, would you mind snapping some pics of how you install and mount it so it’s not melting and flopping around. I’m sick of chasing this and it’s making my truck a pita to drive.
 
Can I pick your brain on throttle cables with the sniper? What length are you using? I’m having trouble getting mine to operate smoothly. The first one melted in the mountains. The stainless one works but has been sticky since I installed it. I think it’s too short. When you get to it, would you mind snapping some pics of how you install and mount it so it’s not melting and flopping around. I’m sick of chasing this and it’s making my truck a pita to drive.

I’ll get you some good pics.

I use the 36” and zip tie it way away from heat. Even the stainless have a nylon sheath inside and if they get hot they get sticky.

You should never have any pressure on the cable. When the pedal bottoms out it should just be enough pedal to get 100% but not stopped by the cable but the pedal.

Hang tight. I’ll do this one in the AM and step by step it for you. Wiring now.

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While you're wiring - can you detail what you ran the ARB lights in the bumper to (parking, turn signal, etc.)
 
While you're wiring - can you detail what you ran the ARB lights in the bumper to (parking, turn signal, etc.)
I tied the fronts in the bumper to the side marker lights.

Rear is the last thing I have to wire and it is going to be a bit of a pain in the ass.

Engine is completely wired/loomed.

H4, Sniper, fuel pump, winch …..
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Should be able to fire this thing up tomorrow.
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Picked up some cheapo rubber mats so I don’t soil this pretty new carpet
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Can I pick your brain on throttle cables with the sniper? What length are you using? I’m having trouble getting mine to operate smoothly. The first one melted in the mountains. The stainless one works but has been sticky since I installed it. I think it’s too short. When you get to it, would you mind snapping some pics of how you install and mount it so it’s not melting and flopping around. I’m sick of chasing this and it’s making my truck a pita to drive.

OK. Dissect the 36” cable

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Add this little tab that can be bought at Lowes I hit the pedal assembly with a step bit just a hair and it snicks in
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Mark yiur spot. It’s right above the spot weld for the tab that holds the firewall mat
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Feed the bare cable into the tab
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Biggest tip on these cables is make sure the piece with the Hex head is on the cable before you trim the cable. It will be impossible to get it on once you cut.
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Make sure you have plenty of room for 90-100% throttle on the LCD
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Tie your cable out of the way so it can’t hit the engine and melt. This is a cool OEM style tie
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Biggest tip on these cables is make sure the piece with the Hex head is on the cable before you trim the cable. It will be impossible to get it on once you cut.
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Make sure you have plenty of room for 90-100% throttle on the LCD
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Tie your cable out of the way so it can’t hit the engine and melt. This is a cool OEM style tie
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Thank you so much! This is very helpful. I think I’m attaching the cable to the wrong hole on the sniper linkage. I’m also running headers and I’m wondering if it’s getting hot enough on that side of the engine bay to melt the inner lining? I guess it wouldn’t hurt to slip a heat shield over the cable.
 
Thank you so much! This is very helpful. I think I’m attaching the cable to the wrong hole on the sniper linkage. I’m also running headers and I’m wondering if it’s getting hot enough on that side of the engine bay to melt the inner lining? I guess it wouldn’t hurt to slip a heat shield over the cable.
I run headers on all mine normally and as long as you don’t let it touch the header itself it’s fine
 


Don’t forget to cycle the key a few times to get the fuel through the system. This was a bit slow at first as it primed fully
 
Stripe kit
 
Pretty much spent the day polishing up the last few items. Wiring the rear bumper lights. Looming. Zip tying.

I am waiting on a top plate for the 4Plus @lcwizard flip kit to install on the passenger side that USPS lost before I can really get it out for some tests. I have not installed the shock over there.

It runs real good. Nice and strong. No leaks (yet)

Very very happy with the look.

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Pretty much spent the day polishing up the last few items. Wiring the rear bumper lights. Looming. Zip tying.

I am waiting on a top plate for the 4Plus @lcwizard flip kit to install on the passenger side that USPS lost before I can really get it out for some tests. I have not installed the shock over there.

It runs real good. Nice and strong. No leaks (yet)

Very very happy with the look.

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Nice.
 

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