Buying/Selling - what year, how much, etc. - ask for opinions here (12 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Any "clean" 100 series, can sells for more than BOOK. Most aren't really clean.

Rule of thumb for built is market value plus 50% of parts cost. The actual sell price will go higher or lower depending of very clean fresh very well build or a very heavy tail used rough around the edges with a sloppy budget build.
 
Any "clean" 100 series, can sells for more than BOOK. Most aren't really clean.

Rule of thumb for built is market value plus 50% of parts cost. The actual sell price will go higher or lower depending of very clean fresh very well build or a very heavy tail used rough around the edges with a sloppy budget build.

This... Plus it really comes down to what you have done and whether or not that stuff is the same as the buyer would want to do. If you throw on some front bumper that you think is bad ass and the potential purchaser does not... so price for him is going to go down simply because in his/her mind they are thinking "how much could I get if I pull that off to fund the bumper I want." So that thought process is the exact same with regards to all the parts that you have put on the truck.

The purchase of a built truck would have been nice for myself but two main factors came into play..
1. Price - Most would be out of my range but how far was the question.
2. Distance/Mileage - How far was the vehicle from me and what mileage did it have on it?

Since I was looking for a truck that was fairly well maintained and had low-ish mileage on it, I had to make the decision as to whether or not the "built" portion was going to play into the equation and if so, how much that was going to add to the cost. Most trucks I liked that were built were a good $2k-$5k+ out of my price range but more importantly they had more than 250k on them, which was at the high end of what I was looking at.

The thought process then turned to me trying to figure out what would be the best "blank canvas" or semi blank that I could work with. Patience paid off and I found something here, little older than I had hoped but still just fine.
 
yes, the point is that on trucks like this it’s worth what the guy in front of you is willing to pay. The reality is that this is a narrow market, and by selling a “built” truck you have narrowed your market further. I’m trying tofind his username, but the guy who was the beta rig for TJM to bring back the T17 sold last year and he was built, as in bumpers, sliders, skids, drawers, etc. all pretty high end.

when you say your truck is “built” what does that mean? That means a lot of things to a lot of people.

PS, blue book on these trucks is basically irrelevant now, too many private party sales to track it.


2001 LX470 - Build Thread TRD Supercharged (Supercharger Guide) ARB Front and Rear Bumpers, SP Drilled/slotted Rotors, 275/70/18 GY Silent Armors, Tundra TRD black wheels, Morimoto HID Low beams, HIR High Beams, Kenwood DDX719 w/ backup cam, AHC replaced with 2.5" OME lift.
 
2001 LX470 - Build Thread TRD Supercharged (Supercharger Guide) ARB Front and Rear Bumpers, SP Drilled/slotted Rotors, 275/70/18 GY Silent Armors, Tundra TRD black wheels, Morimoto HID Low beams, HIR High Beams, Kenwood DDX719 w/ backup cam, AHC replaced with 2.5" OME lift.
The only thing here that makes that tricky is the supercharger. Everything else I wouldn’t expect much back.
 
I did. I sold my 99 for 13k. I had about 24k into over 9.5 years of ownership. Figure you may get 1/3 back of your investment on accessories and mods.
 
2001 LX 470, 236,000 miles, white, stock everything. TB/WP done within 10,000 miles, mechanically fine, nothing apparently imminent, no evidence of frame work, all body panels are in good condition, front seats were torn, ahc passed line test and worked much better after 3 blind turns off the torsion bar, steering rack leaks a bit, cloth speaker covers need replacement, has typical bushing clunk when accelerating, steering wheel looks like it has been grabbed for 5,000 hours, a/c buttons are illegible and require 50 psi...

I paid $5,500 or $6000.01 out the door in Vallejo, Ca.
 
Folks I am looking at a 2007 2 owner 140k miles LC with pretty extensive maintenance history. Color: Thunder Cloud Met(1D2)

It is pretty clean inside out but has very minor surface rust on the under carriage here and there. Body is super clean and straight.
Truck is bone stock. The only major repair has been a timing belt job and rear A/C lines. And also, one CV axle was rebooted.
Brakes and tires are at about half life.

I have a shot at $15k - no negotiation.
I already have a 98 that I have put quite a few upgrades in and this would be a second truck (4th car) for us. The idea is that if I can't persuade my wife to replace our 2012 Sienna with this 2007 LC then I will sell the LC off by next summer.

What do you think it is worth?

See the picture of the interior for an idea:
Interior.webp
 
Folks I am looking at a 2007 2 owner 140k miles LC with pretty extensive maintenance history. Color: Thunder Cloud Met(1D2)

It is pretty clean inside out but has very minor surface rust on the under carriage here and there. Body is super clean and straight.
Truck is bone stock. The only major repair has been a timing belt job and rear A/C lines. And also, one CV axle was rebooted.
Brakes and tires are at about half life.

I have a shot at $15k - no negotiation.
I already have a 98 that I have put quite a few upgrades in and this would be a second truck (4th car) for us. The idea is that if I can't persuade my wife to replace our 2012 Sienna with this 2007 LC then I will sell the LC off by next summer.

What do you think it is worth?

See the picture of the interior for an idea:
Based on prices I've seen and your description, sounds underpriced to me.

Now assuming it needs a lot of maintenance done like fluids, front wheel bearings, brakes etc, I'd say fair priced
 
So figured I would add mine to the list that I just purchased.
'98 LC with 192k on the clock. Has lots of service records to coincide with services given, Non-Nav and rare Cloth seats. Recent replacement of CV axles and installation of following within last 2yrs; OME Medium lift kit (says ARB865 which I believe is the 1.5"), White Knuckle Offroad Sliders, Falken AT3W in 285/70/16 to match lift. All said was $9500. Will need a new starter in the near future (I believe, still diagnosing) and other miscellaneous service items but most will be part of my own baseline of the truck so that I know what was done when and where.

From records truck has always been non-salt belt truck. Spent a few years in Durango, CO but outside of that pretty much moved from TX to AZ to NV and will stay here. Absolutely ZERO rust to speak of and underneath is probably one of the cleanest I have seen.
 
So figured I would add mine to the list that I just purchased.
'99 LC with 192k on the clock. Has lots of service records to coincide with services given, Non-Nav and rare Cloth seats. Recent replacement of CV axles and installation of following within last 2yrs; OME Medium lift kit (says ARB865 which I believe is the 1.5"), White Knuckle Offroad Sliders, Falken AT3W in 285/70/16 to match lift. All said was $9500. Will need a new starter in the near future (I believe, still diagnosing) and other miscellaneous service items but most will be part of my own baseline of the truck so that I know what was done when and where.

From records truck has always been non-salt belt truck. Spent a few years in Durango, CO but outside of that pretty much moved from TX to AZ to NV and will stay here. Absolutely ZERO rust to speak of and underneath is probably one of the cleanest I have seen.

OEM locker or no?

I'm wondering if there is a value difference on 98-99 w/o locker, 98-99 w/ locker, and 2000+ ATRAC. I think for a relatively uneducated buyer or even dealer, they won't seethe value add in the locker.
 
OEM locker or no?

I'm wondering if there is a value difference on 98-99 w/o locker, 98-99 w/ locker, and 2000+ ATRAC. I think for a relatively uneducated buyer or even dealer, they won't seethe value add in the locker.

Not aware of the 98-99 coming w/o a locker. From what I have read it was a standard offering on all. Maybe something that was special order w/o? Mine does have it, was not a deal breaker for when searching but a definite plus. ATRAC is nice as I have it in our '11 4Runner and is interesting to feel the system "kick" when on icy roads but in all the years we have had that as well as my old FJ60 with standard 4x4 engagement I never felt "out of sorts" without the ATRAC.
 
Not aware of the 98-99 coming w/o a locker. From what I have read it was a standard offering on all. Maybe something that was special order w/o? Mine does have it, was not a deal breaker for when searching but a definite plus. ATRAC is nice as I have it in our '11 4Runner and is interesting to feel the system "kick" when on icy roads but in all the years we have had that as well as my old FJ60 with standard 4x4 engagement I never felt "out of sorts" without the ATRAC.

They definitely exist w/o the locker. Not sure the ratio, as market offerings tend to be low in quantity these days.
 
You've got a lot of money in the '98. I don't know if I'd be jumping into a newer model when I don't really
Not aware of the 98-99 coming w/o a locker. From what I have read it was a standard offering on all. Maybe something that was special order w/o? Mine does have it, was not a deal breaker for when searching but a definite plus. ATRAC is nice as I have it in our '11 4Runner and is interesting to feel the system "kick" when on icy roads but in all the years we have had that as well as my old FJ60 with standard 4x4 engagement I never felt "out of sorts" without the ATRAC.

There are a few out there like atnolan94 said. Would be sad to be the person without A-Trac, the better front diff, traction control, and have no rear locker on top of all of that.

P/O (one owner) of my LC did not know it had a locker, and did not know what a locker did. He did however, take it to the dealership for every recommended maintenance item and had every service documented in order. Also an AZ vehicle. They exist.
 
You've got a lot of money in the '98. I don't know if I'd be jumping into a newer model when I don't really


There are a few out there like atnolan94 said. Would be sad to be the person without A-Trac, the better front diff, traction control, and have no rear locker on top of all of that.

P/O (one owner) of my LC did not know it had a locker, and did not know what a locker did. He did however, take it to the dealership for every recommended maintenance item and had every service documented in order. Also an AZ vehicle. They exist.
I have the sad 99 with no rear locker and open rear diff. Even the 98 & 99 LX470 without a locker got a limited slip rear differential. I also have the sad 200 series with only a few modes of crawl control and no turn assist, no side view cameras, and no cooled seats.
 
Last edited:
I have the sad 99 with no rear locker and open rear diff. Even the 98 & 99 LX470 without a locker got a limited slip rear differential. I also have the sad 200 series with only a few modes of crawl control and no turn assist, no side view cameras, and no cooled seats.

 
Hey all. First post! Could use an opinion on a 99...

173k miles
1 owner
Rear locker
Lived in OR its whole life
$6998 at a dealer. Price negotiable.

it’s in super rough condition with few service records and rust. My question is this: for a newbie is this something to walk away from? Would I be better off paying more for a rig in better shape?

At minimum it would need the following (my quick ballpark):
- timing + serpentine belt / water pump $1000
- flush / drain all fluids +/- $200
- spark plugs + ignition cable replacement - $500
- refinish leather seats / wheel / shift $1000
- body work +$2000

I’ll probably go ahead and pull the trigger on a PPI and start calling body shops for quotes. Thanks in advance for your wisdom.

16BF4953-8309-48BE-A5A6-3EEF74F4C487.webp


307E3884-68D7-42EB-85E5-4414329E21BB.webp


BD95CE3B-88CB-4697-BEF0-228B7571FA53.webp


F2245280-F2E3-44F3-9739-95E8346173D8.webp


82A2B04C-A348-4E78-AEB2-E5E886ADB067.webp
 
Hey all. First post! Could use an opinion on a 99...

173k miles
1 owner
Rear locker
Lived in OR its whole life
$6998 at a dealer. Price negotiable.

it’s in super rough condition with few service records and rust. My question is this: for a newbie is this something to walk away from? Would I be better off paying more for a rig in better shape?

At minimum it would need the following (my quick ballpark):
- timing + serpentine belt / water pump $1000
- flush / drain all fluids +/- $200
- spark plugs + ignition cable replacement - $500
- refinish leather seats / wheel / shift $1000
- body work +$2000

I’ll probably go ahead and pull the trigger on a PPI and start calling body shops for quotes. Thanks in advance for your wisdom.

View attachment 2167047

View attachment 2167049

View attachment 2167053

View attachment 2167054

View attachment 2167055
Hard pass for me. That truck has been beat on. Id wait on a cleaner truck.
 
@Shafdawg I've seen better for $6k, just have to keep looking and be ready to jump.

What rust? The body and interior are enough to make me walk away. Clearly they didn't take care of it.

Plug the VIN into the Toyota owners link site and see how they handled service. If the exterior/interior is an example, they probably didn't treat the internals right either...

That PPI money is better spent on a vehicle worth purchasing.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom