buy back

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Update: Went to the Toyota stealership yesterday and had a guy snap some pictures and put it up on the rack briefly to take pics of the under body area. 15 minutes later they said that's it, they're done. Someone will get back to me with the offer. My plan from here is to....

A. Have Toyota agree to pay for the repair in conjunction with my mechanic, who will source the parts aftermarket or not based on the NHTSA writing. (Currently their mantra is, "the only option is Buy Back," but I'm not done with them yet!!!
B. Take them to small claims to have them foot the bill for the fix.

What do you guy's think? I went through all the stuff like calling them, taking it in, rejecting the offer, etc. My mechanic is working on a quote and part sourcing for an estimate.
 
By the way, when they put it up on the rack they didn't even take the spare down to actually look at the tank!!!!
 
As it was explained to me by the tech at Toyota, the issue is excessive pressure build up within the tank rupturing the seam where the tank is sealed together and fuel/vapor leaking out. Don't know if any actually exploded, but obviously the possibility is there for fire.

My '76 FJ55 suffered a ruptured fuel tank - the top was blown out due to repeated pressure cycling (only visible when I dropped the tank). And my '87 FJ60 had tremendous build-up of tank pressure when you would remove the gas cap - so there is some precedence here.
 
Toyota just called and they reiterated they would only do buyback. So I guess I'm going to small claims court!! I'll keep you posted as to value for buy back when I get it.
 
The obvious question is, is it that damn expensive for Toyota to make a run of fuel tanks?? It would seem much cheaper than to try and buy all the old vehicles in question off the road..
 
Surreal.
Document and videotape that 'inspection' ?? :poof:

How can they justify anything without at least pulling the spare and visually seeing the seams intact?
:popcorn:
 
In europe ( :skull: ) there is no gas tank recall and no place else on the planet.
So to me it is just a scam to punch Toyota and simple usa market protection played very well in the 1980 era.

Motor Vehicle Factory Sales and Retail Sales statistics - USA Census numbers

My motorcycle had a recall for the alternator and I got a information letter and new one, so it happens but not for political games.
 
Really, really bad idea..
 
IBFJ62 said:
A) You're going to get really s***ty performance out of the fuel injected 3FE

B) I hope you don't smoke near your vehicle...
Click to expand...


Why? I always thought the sealed system was for the environment.

Plus, one time I lost my cap and drove all week without issue. So what are you guys thinking is so bad?
 
Benjaman said:
Why? I always thought the sealed system was for the environment.

Plus, one time I lost my cap and drove all week without issue. So what are you guys thinking is so bad?
Click to expand...

I agree with you. (But for sanity sake you want to leave a gas cap on there.) AFAIK the return line on the FJ62 runs into the tank and back into the rest of the liquid. So driving with no gas cap really isn't that big of a deal.

Just think about all those new Fords with no gas caps, just a flap that "seals" the opening. Just don't run anything out of fuel and you're good.
 
The pressure builds in the tank, usually, because the one-way valve in the charcoal canister becomes sticky/plugged or the canister itself becomes plugged. The canister setup is very similar to the FJ60s, so you might try switching the two hoses on top. Or, try a new aftermarket canister.

If you drill a hole in the cap you'll smell gas. If you disconnect the hose from the tank, at the canister, you'll smell gas. Unless you're super cheap and never have the tank above 1/4 ;)
 
Spike Strip said:
The pressure builds in the tank, usually, because the one-way valve in the charcoal canister becomes sticky/plugged or the canister itself becomes plugged.
Click to expand...

Is this what causes some FJ60's to spew gas back out of the filler tube / cap and run down the RR quarter? I've seen paint damage on a few and even experienced it myself. Watching helplessly as gas flowed down my new paint. I tore into all the fuel lines and blew everything out... including the canister. Haven't had an issue since.
 
Yes, it's usually the canister. There's an aftermarket one that can be plumbed in with a few simple mods as the Toyota is NLA. I've tried cleaning the canister valve, including spraying a bunch of kroil to loosen the check-valve and it hasn't worked for me, so I just switched the hoses around, but I do get an occasional wiff of gas. I run the 38 gal MAF tank, too.

FWIW, a stock '86 I had would gurgle out the fill pipe, until I switched canister hoses, but then I smelled gas in the engine compartment, but not that strong. When I switched the hoses back, it would pressurize and spew, again.

Another option is the get a gas cap that is BOTH for Vacuum and Pressure relief. I run one of these, also, just as an added precaution to prevent pressure build up. Safer than drilling a hole.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C5GAT8?tag=ihco-20

NOTE - if you live where the gas cap is tested for smog inspections, this will fail, so you need to swap out for a stock cap during inspections.

EDIT:

Here's a pic (not mine) from another thread that shows how the aftermarket canister can be plumbed.


charcoal.webp
 
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Huge knowledge infusion.
Thanks for the brief hi-jack.
 
For what its worth, the owners manual states that it is normal to hear some whooshing of air escaping or going in when removing the gas cap. Replacement of the gas cap gasket is a regular maintenance item, every 30k I believe.
 
Hey Spike, about this evap system: If I use an aftermarket carb with only an advance port, what is the best vacuum source for the evap VCV control? I was using the EGR port but now that is gone with the TH carb. Should I tee off the advance hose to dissy, or can I use one of the intake "gas filter" spigots? I am desmogged, no inspection here, but I kept the evap sys and bvsv 1. I have that canister but have not tried to use it yet.

Does the intake vacuum pull as hard as a carb port? VCV needs >= 70 mm Hg to open, per the FSM. Thanks.
 
Something else can happen if you drill a little breather hole in the gas cap....

If the tank is filled to the brim (which you should never do BTW) and the drilled cap is screwed on, a siphon will very likely start through one of the breather ports on the tank and gush fuel out the charcoal canister once the car starts bouncing around.
Once the CC gets flooded like this, the EVAP breather will be sucking liquid gasoline instead of vapors.

The engine doesn't like this (floods it) and it will stumble & have no power upon acceleration .... Until enough gas has drained out of the tank and CC.

Once the fuel level in the tank drops far enough, then it's no problem...car will run.
 
jawjatek said:
, what is the best vacuum source for the evap VCV control?
Click to expand...

None.

EVAP control is an emissions requirement. Not necessary for performance. When using a (smog illegal) TH carb just vent the tank to atmosphere .... With the vent opening higher than the top of the tank.

Or to the CC without a line leading up to the carb.
 
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