Bustin Nuts!

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by jford, Jul 14, 2005.

  1. jford

    jford

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    Do you guys have any tips/tricks on busting the bolts loose on the windsheild hinges? I've been spraying some break free on them, but no luck. I would like to replace with stainless before the paint, but it isn't looking good. I guess heat is my next option.

    Any other ideas that I'm missing?

    Jford.
     
  2. jjhancock

    jjhancock

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    I've started using PB Blaster lately and it is hands down the best "break free" product I've tried to date. Got it at Napa for < 4 bucks if I recall correctly. Hose down those bolts real good, let it sit for 10 minutes and they should come off pretty easily...
     
  3. IDave

    IDave

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    For some reason those seem to be the worst ones on the trucks I've had. No amount of PB Blaster or Kroil (better stuff) has done the job. Sharp drill bit has been my answer.
     
  4. Outback

    Outback

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    Get an "impact screwdriver" that you can hit with a BFH to break them loose without stripping the heads out. That and some PB Blaster will do the trick. Soak them for 24 hours, spraying them several times in that 24 hours and you should be good to go.

    Jody.
     
  5. VTFJ40

    VTFJ40

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    I'm with Dave on this one. I had 2 that never came out after weeks PB soakings. Drill and re-tap if needed.
     
  6. camcruiser13

    camcruiser13

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    yes i agree these are the hardest to get undone. i broke 3 of them in the process. had to drill. i used a big screwdriver and jimmied a wrench to it for leverage and twisted with all my might. give it hell
     
  7. Otterav

    Otterav

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    Hello,
    Try shock, an impact screwdriver is a solid addition to the tool box, get one at the local auto supply. Kroil penetrating oil or a "Mouse Milk" penetrating oil(found at airport supply shops) will help out alot. I hear everyone talking about stainless hardware as if it is the holy grail. Beware if stainless is used in an application where there is bare metal(ie screw holes), stainless being the least reactive will cause the body or frame to become the sacrifical anode. Your body or frame will rust instead of the bolt. The reason that bolts are cadmium or zinc plated is to provide a more reactive metal for sacrifical purposes, this is basic chemistry, Google dissimilar metal corrosion for a more in depth explanition. The secret to preventing hardware from corroding is to prevent any moisture from coming in contact with the surface of the metals, no moisture , no electrolyte , no corrosion!
    Ola
    eric :D
     
  8. ozarkcruiser

    ozarkcruiser

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    I got a large screwdriver and tapped and turned it till it broke free. Of course this was after a few PB blaster applications.
    JAke
     
  9. TLCBJ40

    TLCBJ40

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    With my truck I didn't get far with a hammer and screwdriver. Turned out their was something like glue in there. after heating it up the glue melted and the screws came right out
     
  10. lingo

    lingo

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    impact driver, best $10 tool you can buy. i just inherited my second, it's a 3/8 drive first one i have seen that small
     
  11. Coolerman

    Coolerman SILVER Star

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    Perfect 'Shock' Tool

    I picked this tool tip up from someone on the LCML a while back.
    This is an easy tool to make that combines shock and torque plus allows you to loosen nuts : http://tinyurl.com/95jah
    It's basically an Air Chisel with a 3/8" 3" long extension welded to the end of a 401 shank. Then an old screwdriver welded to the side to allow you to turn while 'shocking' I turn the air pressure down to about 20-30 psi for smaller stuff to prevent it from jumping around causing damage. Works really well.
     
  12. RUfj40crazy

    RUfj40crazy

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    If your not interested in saving the paint, what i used was a simple propane tourch to heat the bracket and melt all the stock paint from around the bolt. Then i used my small open end wrench and a screw driver with a hex shaft to twist them out (you know the screw driver with the interchangeable phillips and flat head ends) didnt break a single bolt!!!

    peace
    neal
     
  13. nuclearlemon

    nuclearlemon not an addict Moderator

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    get it red hot and whack it with impact driver
     
  14. bustanutley

    bustanutley

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    seeing how my name applies here :grinpimp: I'll third or forth, what ever it is, soak her up, and git it with an impact screw driver
     
  15. yotanut

    yotanut

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    I would weld a nut to it if possible. Thats if it gets too fubared. Impact drivers work great, but my patience always leads me to my welder.
     
  16. jford

    jford

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    Thanks guys.

    I've been trying the impact driver with no luck as of yet. I'll work on spraying them down and possibly the torch.

    Got my half doors finished last night. Need to get myself a star and post up!

    Jford.
     
  17. jhaha

    jhaha

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    Also, get a big screwdriver bit, the interchangable ones, and put that into a socket (3/8 socket or something, i don't remember) and a rachet. Then you can push down hard and turn the screws out. Worked for me.
     
  18. nuclearlemon

    nuclearlemon not an addict Moderator

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    got to get it hot first...those puppies stick way to well.
     
  19. FJ40onNOS

    FJ40onNOS

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    if you going to replace them then just use a vice grip on the head, thats how i get mine off!
     
  20. charlie50

    charlie50

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    I've used - not sure what you call it - an impact driver. The kind you strike with a hammer.... it has different tips - phillips, slotted. Works great, removed my windshield screws without damage. BTW, tool is not expensive. Oh, forgot to mention that you "set" the tool to loosen / tighten by twisting it before hitting with the hammer. Mine has the directions embossed on the tool. Saw a mechanic using one years ago and had to have one of my own.
     
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