Bustin Nuts!

Joined
Jul 9, 2003
Messages
49
Do you guys have any tips/tricks on busting the bolts loose on the windsheild hinges? I've been spraying some break free on them, but no luck. I would like to replace with stainless before the paint, but it isn't looking good. I guess heat is my next option.

Any other ideas that I'm missing?

Jford.
 
Joined
Nov 2, 2004
Messages
336
Location
Boulder, CO
I've started using PB Blaster lately and it is hands down the best "break free" product I've tried to date. Got it at Napa for < 4 bucks if I recall correctly. Hose down those bolts real good, let it sit for 10 minutes and they should come off pretty easily...
 
Joined
Jan 3, 2003
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7,167
Location
McCall, ID
For some reason those seem to be the worst ones on the trucks I've had. No amount of PB Blaster or Kroil (better stuff) has done the job. Sharp drill bit has been my answer.
 
Joined
Sep 17, 2003
Messages
606
Location
Edmond, OK
Get an "impact screwdriver" that you can hit with a BFH to break them loose without stripping the heads out. That and some PB Blaster will do the trick. Soak them for 24 hours, spraying them several times in that 24 hours and you should be good to go.

Jody.
 

VTFJ40

 
Joined
Jun 16, 2004
Messages
634
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Northern Vermont
IDave said:
For some reason those seem to be the worst ones on the trucks I've had. No amount of PB Blaster or Kroil (better stuff) has done the job. Sharp drill bit has been my answer.
I'm with Dave on this one. I had 2 that never came out after weeks PB soakings. Drill and re-tap if needed.
 
Joined
Jun 22, 2004
Messages
6,978
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sittin on the couch in UT
yes i agree these are the hardest to get undone. i broke 3 of them in the process. had to drill. i used a big screwdriver and jimmied a wrench to it for leverage and twisted with all my might. give it hell
 

Otterav

 
Joined
May 26, 2005
Messages
715
Location
Boulder Creek, CA
Hello,
Try shock, an impact screwdriver is a solid addition to the tool box, get one at the local auto supply. Kroil penetrating oil or a "Mouse Milk" penetrating oil(found at airport supply shops) will help out alot. I hear everyone talking about stainless hardware as if it is the holy grail. Beware if stainless is used in an application where there is bare metal(ie screw holes), stainless being the least reactive will cause the body or frame to become the sacrifical anode. Your body or frame will rust instead of the bolt. The reason that bolts are cadmium or zinc plated is to provide a more reactive metal for sacrifical purposes, this is basic chemistry, Google dissimilar metal corrosion for a more in depth explanition. The secret to preventing hardware from corroding is to prevent any moisture from coming in contact with the surface of the metals, no moisture , no electrolyte , no corrosion!
Ola
eric :D
 
Joined
Jun 5, 2005
Messages
12
Location
Utrecht, the Netherlands
With my truck I didn't get far with a hammer and screwdriver. Turned out their was something like glue in there. after heating it up the glue melted and the screws came right out
 

lingo

 
Joined
Apr 8, 2005
Messages
778
Location
Nashvegas
impact driver, best $10 tool you can buy. i just inherited my second, it's a 3/8 drive first one i have seen that small
 

Coolerman

SILVER Star
 
 
Joined
Jan 5, 2004
Messages
6,302
Location
Paint Lick, KY
Perfect 'Shock' Tool

I picked this tool tip up from someone on the LCML a while back.
This is an easy tool to make that combines shock and torque plus allows you to loosen nuts : http://tinyurl.com/95jah
It's basically an Air Chisel with a 3/8" 3" long extension welded to the end of a 401 shank. Then an old screwdriver welded to the side to allow you to turn while 'shocking' I turn the air pressure down to about 20-30 psi for smaller stuff to prevent it from jumping around causing damage. Works really well.
 
Joined
Sep 23, 2004
Messages
209
Location
Ride in VA now in NOVA
If your not interested in saving the paint, what i used was a simple propane tourch to heat the bracket and melt all the stock paint from around the bolt. Then i used my small open end wrench and a screw driver with a hex shaft to twist them out (you know the screw driver with the interchangeable phillips and flat head ends) didnt break a single bolt!!!

peace
neal
 
Joined
Apr 10, 2004
Messages
2,285
Location
denver
seeing how my name applies here :grinpimp: I'll third or forth, what ever it is, soak her up, and git it with an impact screw driver
 

yotanut

 
Joined
May 15, 2004
Messages
285
Location
Tucson
I would weld a nut to it if possible. Thats if it gets too fubared. Impact drivers work great, but my patience always leads me to my welder.
 
Joined
Jul 9, 2003
Messages
49
Thanks guys.

I've been trying the impact driver with no luck as of yet. I'll work on spraying them down and possibly the torch.

Got my half doors finished last night. Need to get myself a star and post up!

Jford.
 
Joined
Sep 14, 2003
Messages
322
Location
Yorktown, Va
Also, get a big screwdriver bit, the interchangable ones, and put that into a socket (3/8 socket or something, i don't remember) and a rachet. Then you can push down hard and turn the screws out. Worked for me.
 
Joined
Oct 7, 2004
Messages
9
I've used - not sure what you call it - an impact driver. The kind you strike with a hammer.... it has different tips - phillips, slotted. Works great, removed my windshield screws without damage. BTW, tool is not expensive. Oh, forgot to mention that you "set" the tool to loosen / tighten by twisting it before hitting with the hammer. Mine has the directions embossed on the tool. Saw a mechanic using one years ago and had to have one of my own.
 
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