Bumps on my 78’s rear tub/fenders?

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Fast Eddy said:
What's your plan for painting?
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Been busy with work, etc. I'll probably just continue in my disjointed ways. :) Pull stuff off and work out a plan for a piece or two at a time (when the neighbors are not around). Just picked up more epoxy primer (PPG) yesterday. That stuff has held up really well, even with the kids walking all over the rear bed, etc. So even if it's not as good as the old more toxic stuff... BTW the 40 continues to run really well (touch wood) - still losing a little oil.

Just started to morph fj40toolbox into http://www.graphictoolbox.com/ - check it out and give me some creative feedback :grinpimp: - note it's still a work in process.
 
Pulled the windows (ambulance doors). Don't know anything about working with glass but they seem to come out ok. Looks like a small "factory" swipe of black sealant on the outside surface, so I guess they pushed the rubber/window in, outside to inside, on top of that sealant. Maybe the black 3M stuff will work there on reassembly?

Rubber looks in good shape considering the age, that tear in the upper right corner was already there. Is this OEM rubber still available?
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Gusb said:
Pulled the windows (ambulance doors). Don't know anything about working with glass but they seem to come out ok. Looks like a small "factory" swipe of black sealant on the outside surface, so I guess they pushed the rubber/window in, outside to inside, on top of that sealant. Maybe the black 3M stuff will work there on reassembly?

Rubber looks in good shape considering the age, that tear in the upper right corner was already there. Is this OEM rubber still available?
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Yes, it is still available OEM, and we are trying to compile a list of non-OEM alternatives for all the weatherstripping. Toyota is charging a premium if you are doing the entire vehicle, as one might imagine.

Some sites to reference: (make sure you change to your model year, these are for my '76)
http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_U_1976_TOYOTA_LAND CRUISER_FJ40LV-KCJA_6751.html
http://www.toyomotorparts.com/compo...cruiser_disc-wheel-wheel-cap-41-03-12017.html
http://www.toyotapartszone.com/genuine/toyota-parts.html (Seems the better of the last two for actual lookup)

You can also use a couple of forum members/vendors directly, but they like you to have part numbers first. CruiserDan is one that sticks out. There are others that I just don't recall.
 
The box patch is almost done (I hope :)). Good amount of work on this piece (bad door) but the fit is good and solid. Lots of overall shrinking, etc. in the welding process. Looks rough here with that white patina - again some metal etch stuff (from the POR people) but a little filler and paint should help once everything is welded together. Need to remember to put in the drain holes.

Showed the sand blaster guy the doors today and we decided blasting was not needed and wouldn't get to some areas anyway - short of pulling the entire skins apart. So I'll wire brush what I can get to, treat with more metal etch and brush a little POR15 into seams and inside areas that have have some surface rust showing. Next I'll epoxy primer what the gun can reach inside before welding everything back together. Lots of original primer/metal left in the "good" door.
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Using new rubber I've never used sealant and never had a problem. Just be sure to get all the Toyota stuff off if you reuse your old rubber.
 
Gusb said:
Outside patch with fold. Bottom patch with radius lip.

My door-skin hammer has finally paid for itself. Although I like the wooden handles ...
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Deer - took new minute. I have two of those leather hammers from some silver smithing classes I took several years ago. Been using them instead of dead blow hammers with the transfer case rebuild along with brass drifts. Nice and non marring though I'm ruining the one I'm using.

Nice work. Reading with much interest.
 
Chachie said:
Just reading through your thread and thought I would share what I have been stripping my 40 with in the tough spots.
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Vae Victus said:
I smell of wire wheeled metal as I type this.
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I too have gone through a few of these with mixed results. Great for removing rough stuff and I want to try one of the "knotted" (like this Milwaukee) at some point.

A bandfile with a 60 grit belt seems to work well too on really hard, kind of baked on rust.
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Look for a new series of cup brushes from Pferd , they use a staggered twist that resists flattening and work a lot faster . Also , Weiler makes a nice stringer flat brush called the Dually , you can flip it over and spin it the opposite direction for fast removal . Just be careful with both of these and use very light pressure , let the tool do the work .
Sarge
 
Weber Sarge said:
Look for a new series of cup brushes from Pferd , they use a staggered twist that resists flattening and work a lot faster . Also , Weiler makes a nice stringer flat brush called the Dually , you can flip it over and spin it the opposite direction for fast removal . Just be careful with both of these and use very light pressure , let the tool do the work .
Sarge
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So, there is a difference vs the standard Home Depot choices. Got it. Good info Sarge. You ought to think about working on vehicles - you'd be good at it. ;-)
 
I did off n on for over the last 35yrs - starting to hate it really . I built , re-wired and rebuilt vehicles from the ground up - everything from mowers to semi's and even a few boat jobs . Never have trusted other mechanics much - "good enough" is used to often by most . Until my '07 Dakota I never let anyone touch one of my vehicles - the first 3 I owned lasted a minimum of 12yrs and well over 300K on the clock . I've driven all those 3 to the bone yard , first car was so bad the guy really didn't want it , lol .

I prefer industrial grade tools - especially power tools . If you're gonna pay for something , do it once . Nicest part is parts are almost always available later - not so much with those "box store" models . Been there , done that trying to fix friends' tools .
Sarge
 
Went to reassemble the spare carrier and realized Toyota had delivered 2 nylon bushings that fit and 2 that were a completely different size. Ordered 2 more but looking at the fit with the stock nylon the bottom mount still seemed sloppy, even with the new nylon. And the shafts were worn a bit from the old broken-down nylon and the mount banging around.

Found some 5/8 ID x 3/4 OD x 3/4 long bronze bushings at Ace ($4.50 ea.). These are Oil Impregnated Bearings, also referred to as "Self Lubricating" or "Sintered" Bronze Bushings, I think that's what these are ;) - no one at the hardware store really knew what/where they were. Cleaned everything up and cut the 2 bottom bushings shorter and it all went together with a nice press fit. Seems solid - time will tell I guess. The big silver washers are OEM.

Edit: Note this (thicker lip than the nylon bushing) throws the rack location up about .050 inch but everything else seems to line up well enough.
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