Unlike the four speed, the three speed needle bearings are all like free-range chickens: no cages!
Builds - Summer time Black FJ40 re-baselining
- Thread starter TexFJ
- Start date
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- build build thread f155 fj40 1973
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- Thread starter
- #42
Ya, I think that they just fell out when I was taking the counter gears out. stillt trying to figure out where the larger rollers go, looks like around the 2nd gear. it's a puzzle, I like puzzles.Unlike the four speed, the three speed needle bearings are all like free-range chickens: no cages!
The cruiser still drove through all gears, albeit with some noices (which I thought was throwout bearing) so I'm hoping to put it all back together and see if it still does, just smoother. The gears look ugly though.
There are enough people abandoning three speeds that if you’re dead set on having the experience of rebuilding one without buying anything from a vendor, I’d still recommend posting a want ad for a different core. Pitted gears will chew themselves up quickly.
- Thread starter
- #44
Good point. I'll clean and see what needs to be replaced and place an ad.
If I have to get a new to me one, is a 4-speed a drop in replacement? Or does it require its own TC?
Plenty of information on that in the FAQ section.
- Thread starter
- #46
I just got FAQ'dPlenty of information on that in the FAQ section.
But, you got FAQ'd by Mark A. So you got that.I just got FAQ'd
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- #48
Dang, I wasn't ready for that can of worms in the FAQ on the J30 to 4-speed conversion. Lots of opinions flying around o what exactly it takes... I'll skip that thought for now until I figure out how solid the rebuild will be.Plenty of information on that in the FAQ section.
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- #52
Knocked out the 5 new tie rod ends from 555. The L marked ones were on the passenger side and the R marked ones went to the Driver side. Go figure. Must be a stage right and stage left type of thing.
Meanwhile, TC is just sitting there waiting for some tranny synch keys to come in.
Meanwhile, TC is just sitting there waiting for some tranny synch keys to come in.
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- Thread starter
- #53
Debugging Fuel gauge caused me to clean things up. fingers crossed on getting it back together, those gauge wires are super fine and delicate. Took out one of the glass panels but stopped there as the rubber piece just was crumbling. I'm guessing these aren't available.
Green Bean
SILVER Star
There are 2 wires going to the fuel gauge; it is my understanding that one of which is 12v and the other is a ground. Do you know which one is which? It appears that the hot would be the yellow with green (closest to the ampmeter). I will be installing a new Dakota Digital instrument cluster this weekend and need to figure out the fuel gauge wiring. Thanks.
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- #55
There's more variance in this wiring then I thought. All depends upon year of your FJ40. But yes, the red on yellow wire (C on the diagram) goes to the sender gauge on the fuel tank. the other terminal at the sender on the fuel tank is just grounded.
The Fuel gauge is also powering the water temp gauge.
Debugging is a pain since the voltages are all over the place with the coils. I should get an oscilloscope.
Green Bean
SILVER Star
Very helpful. Good luck on your build which I'm following. Thank you.
- Thread starter
- #57
thanks to @Tancruiser I have some good looking reverse, idler, intermediary gears now. You can see how that water damaged these things.
It took me a while but I tried the same method of inserting the bearings as I did with the reverse idler gear. plenty of assembly goo
Worked well, until I realized that to install the 2nd gear I had to position the intermediate gears in the bottom of the case loose before I knock in the input driveshaft bearing in with the 2nd gear. Well that knocking knocked the bearings out of the inside of the intermediary gear. pain. There is a SST that you insert in the intermediary gear to keep them in place while you do this, but I had to try 3 times before it worked without the SST.
It took me a while but I tried the same method of inserting the bearings as I did with the reverse idler gear. plenty of assembly goo
Worked well, until I realized that to install the 2nd gear I had to position the intermediate gears in the bottom of the case loose before I knock in the input driveshaft bearing in with the 2nd gear. Well that knocking knocked the bearings out of the inside of the intermediary gear. pain. There is a SST that you insert in the intermediary gear to keep them in place while you do this, but I had to try 3 times before it worked without the SST.
- Thread starter
- #58
Since nothing seemed to work on the gauge cluster, I took it apart and cleaned all connections. Only pressure gauge started working so I started debugging. Finally got all connections right and found the adjusting screw on the fuel gauge which controls the duty cycle of the current going to other resistor coils which heat up the little bars that bend. Now all is good. 
