Builds Broski's Adventure Rig build thread (7 Viewers)

[spyduh]

Post #267 10 psi to 25 psi in a minute & 30 to 40 seconds, tested it 5 times. For me there no need for 40 PSI for street use. the bigger the tire the less psi needed, lots of info on the net about this.

I run my 39s at 20PSI. People look at me crazy when I tell them this. Plenty of info that bigger tires = less psi.
But beyond the info. Chalk test for your specific rig tells you exactly what PSI you need. I asked my truck and it spoke to me with chalk and said "yo man I need to be at 20PSI".


My 37s prior liked 24-25psi for my 80. I aired down to 6-15 PSI depending on terrain.
Same 37s and beadlocks were at 16 front and 18 rear PSI on my mini truck crawler. I aired down to 6-12 PSI depending on terrain for the mini truck.

Different weight different load different truck and different PSI. I have not aired down the 39s and only driven 50miles on it so far before I started taking the 80 apart to get it ready for this season. My truck has been on jackstands now for a little over 2 months. I'm hoping by next weekend she will be ready for the season.

 

[jcardona1]

Yeah makes sense. I can tell you my Mud Grapplers definitely don't like pavement at anything less than 35psi. I think the type of tire too (not just size) impacts the psi needed. Would be great if I could run the Grapplers at 25, would save so much time airing up.

 

[spyduh]

Yeah makes sense. I can tell you my Mud Grapplers definitely don't like pavement at anything less than 35psi. I think the type of tire too (not just size) impacts the psi needed. Would be great if I could run the Grapplers at 25, would save so much time airing up.

I would try a chalk test to see what air pressure your truck likes. go in 5 PSI increments and either work down or up.

 

[Broski]

I ordered this Antirock sway bar

and started to get it mounted, My plan was to run it through the frame for the strength and a factory & clean look.
So I made up this template so I could cut the holes with a Plasma cutter, clean and accurately.

It fits over the frame and allows me to cut the holes with accurate alignment on both sides of the frame.

I was able to use body mounts and existing holes in the frame to get a good alignment on the other side.

very Happy with the results so far

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Great idea!!! Parking that in my brain.

 

[Broski]

Got the bar centered and checked it for square.

It is spot on, so I tack weld it in place.

added the bushings and bar so I can start getting the arms set up.
My Pup Sassy is becoming a good Shop Dog, She just Likes to hang out while I'm working. I threw down a Fernie blanket for her to lay on but she seams to prefer the dirt .

Checking the alignment, everything seem to be clearing , heme joint need to be mounted off the end of the arm instead of the side . I will be welding a bung in that notch.

 

[Broski]

Bungs are welded in and the links are done.

I also cut down the tabs that weld to the axle and got the tabs welded in.

 

[Wermz]

I love seeing this sway bar build. Looks great man!

 

[spyduh]

Dang thats super short compared to out of the box.

 

[spyduh]

Need more pics please.
So I can figure out what you did so I can replicate this weekend.

 

[pvhobo]

Dang thats super short compared to out of the box.

That is a direct kit right out of the box

 

[spyduh]

That is a direct kit right out of the box

no its not. me and Broski bought the same kit. Here's what mine looks like his before he modded the crap out of it.

 

[pvhobo]

The sway bar comes in a box complete all you have to do is straighten the arms and nach for the bung I did mine first and Broskie saw the idea and like it so he did his that way so yes it’s straight out of the box
I have the same rear bumper is you
I wound up mounting mine on top of the frame because of that rear bumper

 

[thatcabledude]

The sway bar comes in a box complete all you have to do is straighten the arms and nach for the bung I did mine first and Broskie saw the idea and like it so he did his that way so yes it’s straight out of the box
I have the same rear bumper is you
I wound up mounting mine on top of the frame because of that rear bumper

I believe what he meant is the links have been chopped to about 1/3 of their original shipped length

 

[GW Nugget]

As always sterile install from the LC surgeon.
That rig is the most used cleanest 80 I've seen.
Kit number please if you would & pics of @pvhobo 's install if okay with @Broski since it's his build thread.

 

[pvhobo]

I think you are correct.

 

[Broski]

As always sterile install from the LC surgeon.
That rig is the most used cleanest 80 I've seen.
Kit number please if you would & pics of @pvhobo 's install if okay with @Broski since it's his build thread.

 

[pvhobo]

Here's the kit #

CE-9906-21 - Universal Antirock® Kit (50" x 1" Bar, 21" Steel Arms)
Broski can direct you to the pics and install info on my install.

 

[pvhobo]

As always sterile install from the LC surgeon.
That rig is the most used cleanest 80 I've seen.
Kit number please if you would & pics of @pvhobo 's install if okay with @Broski since it's his build thread.

Broski gave it his blessing for sway bar pics
I changed phones and can’t find them
Go to my posts, page 5 you should be able to see pics and discription of install

 

[spyduh]

Yes I meant the end link was shorten in Broski mod.

@pvhobo I found your post in the sway bar thread after digging for it. Interesting way of positioning the bar. Is that notched bracket you made welded onto the 4x4labs bumper metal inner wing? Looks like it at least or is it directly welded to the frame?

Now ive seen pvhobos, nukegoats, and Broskis variation of install. I think I'm going to try and see how the top bar fits. But I'm still leaning on broskis inside frame mod. It's the cleanest install I think so far