I've been using IPF "High Output" 55/60 W replacement bulbs on my S13 for the past 8 years without any issue. No special or upgraded wiring required. Will definitely do it again on my 62.
Brighter Headlights for FJ60??? (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter nymbert
- Start date
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Thank you for the recommendation I just made my order from DS. Can't wait to get them installed.
So I put in some Hella H4 7's on my 83 fj60 a year or so ago, never did any wiring upgrade just a straight swap from the old OEM ones. What are the odds I'm going to fry my wiring? Is there a write up anywhere on wiring into the battery
None, the bulb can’t ask for more amps than the system can give. I’ve run H4s for years on the stock harness. Upgrading the harness will allow more power to the bulbs.
H4’s refer to the headlamp bulb style and usually indicate a European lens pattern which is far more defined and efficient than the DOT sealed beams. So it’s a mechanical thing and has nothing to do with electrical current. If you put 100 watt bulbs then you’ll likely see some problems.
I did the Hella conversion years ago without any mods on my 62 and blew out my high beam switch. I called Hella customer service and they had me install a couple of relays and something else to issue the FJ's grounding system, no problems since. I want to go to Sylvania ultra low beams now and don't know if I have to modify the modification? ugh..... lol
Again the hella conversion was not the problem. It was whatever bulb you ran that was the issue. These days most bulbs are 55W/60W which is pretty low. The stock components and old wires and connectors start to have heat issues when you go to a 100 watt bulb. In a 4 rectangular system with all 4 lights on during high beam you are using about 200 watts or 15ish amps of current.
Without going to LEDs a heavier wired harness with separate relays for low and high or even for each light will drastically improve your light output and allow you to run hotter bulbs.
LEDs are nice because you get even more light and little if any increase in current. Also you might look for some older HID lows as they might be cheap now that everyone went to LED.
Without going to LEDs a heavier wired harness with separate relays for low and high or even for each light will drastically improve your light output and allow you to run hotter bulbs.
LEDs are nice because you get even more light and little if any increase in current. Also you might look for some older HID lows as they might be cheap now that everyone went to LED.
ntsqd
technerd
I do recall reading, possibly in this thread, a warning about using LED's in very cold weather and their not having as much output as they do when temps are more 'normal'. Don't know if this has been addressed in later designs or not.
Actually LEDs do better in cold weather. It’s the heat that they don’t like.
ntsqd
technerd
Not how I recall reading it at all.
Interesting, I'm certainly not trying to be difficult but the Hella Tech Line guy rambled over and over about the LC's grounding system. With what I'm hearing I can drop the Standard H4s in without problems Hella relay mod and all. That's great news for me because I don't want to fuss with the wiring mod I was instructed by Hella to do. Apparently they dont have a Tech Phone Line anylonger or I would be calling them. Think I'm gonna go beat my head up against a post for awhile! Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Correct, an incandescent H4 will drop in with no problems at 55/60W, if you use a LED or HID system you need to mess with switching polarity which is easy with a small inline module.
Correct, I finally understand that. My point being is the switching polarity around has already been done after I blew out my highbeam switch by just plugging in the Hellas. Now my concern is if I need to undue those mods to go with a standard H4 such as the Sylvania Ultra everyone has been bragging about at the local shops here.
Incandescent bulbs don’t have any polarity. Or at least not in the sense of an LED which is a diode and which by design is made to only allow current to flow through in one direction.
Performance wise LED’s do better in the cold than an incandescent bulb does. They may be worse from the point of view of ice buildup.
Performance wise LED’s do better in the cold than an incandescent bulb does. They may be worse from the point of view of ice buildup.
ntsqd
technerd
While incandescent H4's don't have a polarity, they do have a slightly different pin-out that is well documented on this site (possibly also earlier in this thread). They'll work with the existing headlight wiring as-is, but the connections aren't quite correct. Been too long since I looked at it to recall if there is any advantage to re-arranging the wiring or not.
BamaHeel
Intergalactic Champion
Ordered these from my local dealer yesterday and picked up today. Looking forward to installing these.
Sorry I know this is an old post, but wondering how/where to order these upgraded headlights for my BJ60.
Try a google search for ‘7” round headlight’. Hella, ipf, cibie, and others. Also amazon. eBay.
Daniel Stern Lighting Consultancy and Supply
North America's Premier Automotive Lighting Consultancy and Supply
I have bought lots of lights from Daniel over the decades. High quality lighting and electrical harnesses. He is pricey, but it is done right.
