Brake Bleeding Sequence

[middlecalf]

'65 FJ40, original drum brake system (all around), new M/C (hence the need to bleed brakes).

Jeff Zepp's Tech Article states "Always start bleeding farthest from the M/C and work your way closer." My MityVac brake bleeding kit instructions state to bleed starting at the wheel closest to the M/C (but defers to the particular vehicle's maintenance manual). My Toyota Chassis/Body manual makes no statement as to proper sequence, and I don't have a FSM.

Is Jeff's statement from a FJ40 manual and the correct sequence? Thanks.

 

['74 UA FJ]

That should work just fine. You could start by bleeding the master cylinder since it was completely empty, though. Bleed at all 4 corners until there are no more air bubbles coming out. If your pedal is spongy, bleed some more.

 

[selk78]

farthest from the booster first, rear passenger, then drivers side rear, then front passenger, then drivers front...

if that's what you were referring too?!?!

 

[lone gunman]

did you bench bleed the master prior to install ? i always do, and then i have always bleed farthest away first as stated in jeffs article and have been doing it this way for over 25 years and never had a problem.

 

[Splangy]

did you bench bleed the master prior to install ? i always do, and then i have always bleed farthest away first as stated in jeffs article and have been doing it this way for over 25 years and never had a problem.

yup...X2

 

[3_puppies]

farthest from the booster first, rear passenger, then drivers side rear, then front passenger, then drivers front...

if that's what you were referring too?!?!

I've always questioned this. as the driver side rear is further away than the pass side rear, going by the routing of the brake lines.

 

[selk78]

I've always questioned this. as the driver side rear is further away than the pass side rear, going by the routing of the brake lines.

I don't know if its wrong or right, but thats the was i was taught to do it when i was a kid helping my brother work on his 4x4s, its always worked great for me.

 

[natvet]

Caution hijack attempt...... Do ya'll use a brake fluid pump to fill the lines or use a bleeder(suction)....In other words do you pump fluid in from the bleed screw or suck fluid from the bleeder.... hijack over

 

[lc69hunter]

Yeah, I usually start with the drivers side rear also, as it is the farthest away. The end of the line, so to speak.

 

[vk7ybi]

I've had good success gravity bleeding mine, I usually start with the longest line and work back..

 

[lone gunman]

i usually pump the brake peddle to bleed mine. no power bleeder here

 

[middlecalf]

yes, I'll bench bleed the M/C first, just wondering about sequencing through the brake cylinders. Looks like working from farthest to nearest has worked for you all.

natvet - suck fluid through the bleeder, otherwise you're just pushing any trapped air to the M/C. But the M/C has to have fluid at all times otherwise you'll suck air into the system and have to start over.

 

[3_puppies]

I attach a small section of clear hose to the bleeder nipple and stick the other end in a container of brake fluid. lets the bubbles out but won't suck air back in.
I can do them by myself.

 

[Mudsmuggler]

I have just spent a month of Sundays on this exact issue; this is how I finally fixed it.

You need a 1 pint ball jar with two holes through the lid into which go 1/4 inch clear flex
lines about 18 inches each run to the bottom of the jar

Starting rear driver brake single bleeder, connect 1/4 inch tube and crack bleeder and
start engine. Then sieze that pedal with both hands and drive it to the floor and then quickly pull
it towards you as fast and hard as you can repeatedly watching as the res quickly empties
fill res asnd repeat until the pint jar is full. Repeat for rear passenger. For the fronts starting
with passenger connect both hoses and crack both bleeders then really get all your frustration
out on that pedal, all the pain and frustration these dam brakes have given you. When the jar
is full close the bleeders and move on to the drivers front and repeat.

This is will work, takes 15 minutes costs a couple bucks

Good luck all

 

[peesalot]

I gravity bleed all four into water bottles with fluid already in them, clear hose on bleeder, keep filling master, watch for air bubbles, might have to vibrate wheel cyl's to get all of it out but with the bottle method you can see & hear the air come out.