Bolt on turbo kit (2 Viewers)

[Heckraiser]

Turbo owners. Have you noticed a slight loss of power after the first few heat cycles? Mine feels a tad slower for some reason now. It feels like the turbo isn't spoiling as hard now. Maybe the ecu relearned and slowed it down? Am I the only one or maybe its in my head and that I'm just use to speed now. Maybe I need more power.

Edit typo. Relearned

Before I had my intercooler, I would find mine was a lot peppier for the first ~5-10 minutes of driving in the AM. Then when everything warmed up it lost some HP.

I also had to go back and fix leaks on several occasions. Check all the bolts and hose clamps. I had a significant leak at the wastegate that obviously made a big difference.

:edit: challenger, yuck. Not my cup of tea. Although that motor in an 80 would be interesting util you slid into the bus of nuns

 

[spyduh]

Before I had my intercooler, I would find mine was a lot peppier for the first ~5-10 minutes of driving in the AM. Then when everything warmed up it lost some HP.

I also had to go back and fix leaks on several occasions. Check all the bolts and hose clamps. I had a significant leak at the wastegate that obviously made a big difference.

:edit: challenger, yuck. Not my cup of tea. Although that motor in an 80 would be interesting util you slid into the bus of nuns

Exactly!!! What's happening to me. Feels faster when colder earlier in the drive. When it gets hot it feels slower. So I'm not crazy. Well probably still crazy. Just not alone in this. I'll check all the hoses, clamps and WG.

Could be hoses getting hot and not as firm allowing air to get in/out.

 

[TYM4FUN]

Exactly!!! What's happening to me. Feels faster when colder earlier in the drive. When it gets hot it feels slower. So I'm not crazy. Well probably still crazy. Just not alone in this. I'll check all the hoses, clamps and WG.

Could be hoses getting hot and not as firm allowing air to get in/out.

*spyduh secretly pre-orders water injection kit with NLXTACY 5 min ago...then taps is vains on his arm with is fingers....

 

[thatcabledude]

Sucks it’s a Dodge

No worries. LSA to the rescue!!!

 

[NLXTACY]

Next batch of six will be ready to go out this week. I will send out emails tomorrow to those folks.

 

[OutlawMike]

Next batch of six will be ready to go out this week. I will send out emails tomorrow to those folks.

Sweet, hoping I make the cut. Pulled the front and rear diff's today, off to the shop to have 4.88's and ARB's installed this week. Sure is nice and open on the passenger side to drill the side of the oil pan. No steering linkage, no sway bar, no differential. My 13 year old son has been my partner on this project. He is totally into wrenching on the rig. After dinner tonight he says, anything else we can do on the LC in the garage tonight? Gotta love that. Yes, yes there is, let's head out to the garage.

 

[NLXTACY]

Emails just went out. If you didn't get one, don't fret, more coming in.

 

[spyduh]

Sweet, hoping I make the cut. Pulled the front and rear diff's today, off to the shop to have 4.88's and ARB's installed this week. Sure is nice and open on the passenger side to drill the side of the oil pan. No steering linkage, no sway bar, no differential. My 13 year old son has been my partner on this project. He is totally into wrenching on the rig. After dinner tonight he says, anything else we can do on the LC in the garage tonight? Gotta love that. Yes, yes there is, let's head out to the garage.

You might want to pull both upper and lower pans and reseal both if you have the extra working space. Only if you have your turbo drain fitting from Joey though. Unless you got a tracking number already on the way. If you do pull both I would use the Tig welded version instead of the tap. Leak free forever with weld on. It cost me $40 bucks or something to have mine welded on by my local tig welder.

Here's my writeup for the weld on.

Builds - Spyduh's LX450 Build (Motor Rebuild + Wits End Turbo Kit)

They look gorgeous!

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[OutlawMike]

You might want to pull both upper and lower pans and reseal both if you have the extra working space. Only if you have your turbo drain fitting from Joey though. Unless you got a tracking number already on the way. If you do pull both I would use the Tig welded version instead of the tap. Leak free forever with weld on. It cost me $40 bucks or something to have mine welded on by my local tig welder.

Here's my writeup for the weld on.

Builds - Spyduh's LX450 Build (Motor Rebuild + Wits End Turbo Kit)

They look gorgeous!

forum.ih8mud.com

Got the email, so, kit will be shipped this week! I will look at pulling the lower pan off also. I will stay with the bolt on drain fitting. That line is not under pressure and it is above the oil line in the sump. If it does leak, it is at the lowest point on the motor and easy to get to. Thanks for the advice.

 

[spyduh]

Exactly!!! What's happening to me. Feels faster when colder earlier in the drive. When it gets hot it feels slower. So I'm not crazy. Well probably still crazy. Just not alone in this. I'll check all the hoses, clamps and WG.

Could be hoses getting hot and not as firm allowing air to get in/out.

So my batt was disconnected for a day because I was working on wiring. So by default the ECU forgot the saved parameters and it had to relearn again. I let it warm up and then headed to the freeway. It definitely felt FASTER like it did the first time I took it for a spin. I think the ECU either gave it more fuel in the beginning so it runs richer thus creating more HP. Either I need to work on an intercooler or meth injection to bring temps down (also creating more HP).

I set my timing with my crappy Harbor Freight timing gun and I know it's not accurate because I've tested it against my buddies Snao-On timing gun. Generally its off by 1-2 degrees. Usually not a big deal on N/A cars but since this is F/I it does make a difference since we're using factory ecu. So I'm headed to my buddies shop tonight to use his SnapOn timing gun to set it exactly at 3degrees. One thing to note. I've been consistenly monitoring my AFR and the factory ECu is doing a good job. 14.7 at idle and 10-12's on FULL throttle. In other words, rich = good on full peddle. Lean = BOOM on full peddle.

 

[NLXTACY]

IC's don't add HP

 

[spyduh]

Yeah it does not directly create HP. The ICs does keep it cool. Cooler it runs the more HP you can create if I'm not mistaken.

i.e. heat soaking will cause less power. I'm not 100% sure yet but I have noticed on extended drives it feels a tiny bit slower than when cold. I have no idea if it's caused by heat soaking or not yet since I've only driven 250 miles on my new build/turbo so far. I maybe driving up to Hwy 108 this weekend with it if I deem she's ready for a long driveway. I need to put more miles on her and go through a check for leaks.

 

[scottryana]

And running richer makes less hp.

 

[spyduh]

And running richer makes less hp.

One thing to note. Cruising with light/medium peddle is roughly 14.7 to 13.5 AFR. Punching it is fun on the freeway though. I have passing speeds I never knew existed in an 80 series. It feels like a whole different truck now with the added acceleration.

 

[SNLC]

I am just going to leave this here.

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1fz-billet-race-inlet-manifold-6-injector-or-twin-rail-12 : Plazmaman provide injector. We provide best services. For more information visit Plazmaman site.

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Cheers

 

[LCOOL80]

Just had larger injectors fitted to my Safari turbo set up at 4WP Group and tuned. So far it's putting out around 190 kw / 254 HP @ 9 psi. Tuner suspects a problem with the boost solenoid that's getting looked at and re tuned next week. We're anticipating around 300 plus atw hp. The thing flies already! My son chased me in his turbo Skyline and it's quick all right. hehe Mine runs an lsd up front, manual, stock awd transfer case on 35s. I wouldn't let just anyone hop in and go for it. Front wheels break traction very easily especially the unloaded side even in 3rd gear! Super quick.

 

[NLXTACY]

I am just going to leave this here.

1fz billet race inlet manifold 6 | injector | twin rail 12

1fz-billet-race-inlet-manifold-6-injector-or-twin-rail-12 : Plazmaman provide injector. We provide best services. For more information visit Plazmaman site.

plazmaman.com

Cheers

$1500 before options

 

[scottryana]

Yeah at light/medium throttle you are still in closed loop. And yes you should have some passing power on the freeway, it is not a race car, but certainly much better! But again your ideas of being rich and having more power are not right. If you truly feel like there is a problem. Send me a PM. I will work through some troubleshooting steps, but to me it doesn't sound like there is an issue. When the weather is cold, or the truck is cold you won't be losing as much power to heat, this is normal and like has been talked about and you can reduce temps and get some of that loss back with an IC or water injection. But if you do feel like you have a problem, please PM me the problems you are having and we can certainly go through them.

One thing to note. Cruising with light/medium peddle is roughly 14.7 to 13.5 AFR. Punching it is fun on the freeway though. I have passing speeds I never knew existed in an 80 series. It feels like a whole different truck now with the added acceleration.

 

[scottryana]

That is actually a pretty good price compared to what Hypertune charged me for mine. lol. But I guess that is the problem getting the first of anything.

I am just going to leave this here.

1fz billet race inlet manifold 6 | injector | twin rail 12

1fz-billet-race-inlet-manifold-6-injector-or-twin-rail-12 : Plazmaman provide injector. We provide best services. For more information visit Plazmaman site.

plazmaman.com

Cheers

$1500 before options

 

[GOTLOCKED96]

$1500 before options

But could you get a carb sticker for it if you resold them?