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- #41
Block surface dots
- Thread starter David Rodgers
- Start date
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- #42
Painted it since it was off the truck.
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- #43
More paint
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- #44
Painted valve cover
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- #45
Checked for block deck flatness with a borrowed precision straight bar and feeler gauge. It came back in spec. I was worried.
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- #46
Painted plenums, not sure if I like the orange but that’s what it’s going to bez
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- #47
Going to start tapping/cleaning out the bolt holes on Mon/Tue. This has been a job! I checked all of the old bolts with a caliper and they came back in spec. My lowest was 10.81. I’m sure that these are original. I’m going to use them again.
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- #48
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- #49
Will do. I’m going to paint it as well. Thanks
Interesting thread. First off, you got this!! It’s an easy job though time consuming. I’m in it now too, dropping head off Monday.
I think most of us will agree that you’d benefit and probably be taken more seriously if you posted a little less rapid fire. If you come up with more to say, edit your previous post.
The head and valve cover paint look good. Is that a Toyota engine color?
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- #51
Will do. Haven’t posted much to the forums either. I just had some time and I wanted to update (some for everyone, some for myself) so that I could look it up if I ever have to do it again. I’ve got some orange on my tow hooks so that’s where the orange come in. Wanted to kind of go for the tractor look and the gray is just a gray that duplicolor had in engine enamel.
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- #52
I finally got back to work on the cruiser. Took off the oil cooler and it was really clean and didn’t see any corrosion at all. I’m replacing all of the gaskets. Should I still pressure test?
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- #53
Put head back on yesterday. Followed the manual very carefully 
We were curious what the final torque was after the last 90 degree. We torqued it with a torque wrench going super slow to make sure that we didn’t add any torque. We think the bolts are around 90 pounds final. Pretty hard to pull that last 90 degrees
We were curious what the final torque was after the last 90 degree. We torqued it with a torque wrench going super slow to make sure that we didn’t add any torque. We think the bolts are around 90 pounds final. Pretty hard to pull that last 90 degrees
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- #54
I cleaned each of the bolts with wd40 and a bench mount stainless wire wheel (real gentle wheel (could touch it with my fingers). Put a coating of motor oil on bolts. All of the bolts pulled progressively harder. I went super slow turning each an 8th of a turn per cycle and torque testing each time I started on bolt 1.
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- #55
Cleaned all the bolt holes out as well. I put penetrating fluid in the holes and let it sit for a day or so. Then I blew that out, sprayed more in and used a new head bolt (bought at the dealer for $22 and immediately ground a line in with a grinder) to get all of the debris out.
I repeated on each back and forth until the bolt was finger easy to turn. I did it all by hand, no wrenches.
I continued until the wd40 that I blew out was completely white when it came out. So, totally clean.
I repeated on each back and forth until the bolt was finger easy to turn. I did it all by hand, no wrenches.
I continued until the wd40 that I blew out was completely white when it came out. So, totally clean.
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- #56
Cleaned both block and head surface with brake cleaner and a microfiber rag right before we put the head on. I let it dry (evaporate) for a minute.
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- #57
I didn’t tap the head bolt holes because I’ve never done it before and was afraid that I would turn it or cut into existing. The bolt worked perfectly.
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- #59
Will do. Thanks. I’m gonna wheel polish it as well
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- #60
Also, I put the spark plugs in while on the bench so I wouldn’t have to squat over it.