BJ60 3B diesel swap into FJ60 + WVO and turbo (build future)

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nice but a few q about he floor

Would it have been easier just to built new sheet metal stock to replace the large amount of metal you cut out from the floor? I did not see the part where you may have repaired or patched it. BTW, glad you were thinking about welding in cross braces to keep the upper body shell from distorting while it was cut to pieces.

Also, did you do tack welds onto the painted fender??
 
snowboardonsnow said:
So I know I am still a ways away but I am still undecided on paint in two aspects.

1st go with 2k and paint and do it 'right'
OR 1k paint and have 'easy touch up'

Any thoughts?

2nd military green body with desert tan accents (bumpers, hoops, trims ect)
Or desert tan body with military green accents?

Any thoughts?
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I am a big proponent of Raptor Liner. That's what I painted Moonshine with this time around and thus far, it's held up to every boulder I've rubbed it up against. You can get it in black or tintable, so you can make it whatever color you want. Of course, 033 is the best choice, but to each is own :grinpimp:
 
rustybucket said:
Would it have been easier just to built new sheet metal stock to replace the large amount of metal you cut out from the floor? I did not see the part where you may have repaired or patched it. BTW, glad you were thinking about welding in cross braces to keep the upper body shell from distorting while it was cut to pieces.

Also, did you do tack welds onto the painted fender??
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So post #41 and #49 where my interior rust repair, I believe you may by asking about the mad scientist pistonpete's rig in post #63? (sorry I would say what pages they are on but I use a 50 post per page)
I had some decent size pieces to patch and yes I use new sheet metel stock, I think 18 or 20gage.
As for the painted fender yup i was lazy lol. Even then it wanted to burn through in many spots.
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
I am a big proponent of Raptor Liner. That's what I painted Moonshine with this time around and thus far, it's held up to every boulder I've rubbed it up against. You can get it in black or tintable, so you can make it whatever color you want. Of course, 033 is the best choice, but to each is own :grinpimp:
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I just seen some pics in post #1257 but with over 1300+ to look through where can I find some good pictures? I like it so far, what was the cost? Is it DIY?
 
snowboardonsnow said:
I just seen some pics in post #1257 but with over 1300+ to look through where can I find some good pictures? I like it so far, what was the cost? Is it DIY?
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Here are some good pictures;

https://picasaweb.google.com/108958421099539809979/BodySwap

Cost: I spent less than $600 in materials for painting my new body. That includes two kits of raptor liner, half a gallon of urethane paint tinted 033, masking tape and paper, and sand paper.

DIY: The process is simple.

1. Thoroughly clean all surfaces to be painted. Remove all grease, dirt, bugs, etc.
2. Sand all surfaces to be painted with 100-120 grit sand paper. Scuff everything up well.
3. Wipe all surfaces to be painted down with Xylene
4. Mask everything that you do not want painted
5. Shoot Raptor liner onto body

I painted the whole truck myself. I think it came out pretty well and it is SUPER durable. Leaning the body up against boulders enough to bend panels 3" or so only left a scuff in the liner. It did not scrape off like paint would have.

Let me know if you have any other questions man!
 
Yea man I am liking that! I think I will go this route thanks for sharing.


Ok so I actually got a little time to go bs in the shop. I decided to fix the pomel Horse issue since I had everything there and was just killing time drinking beer anyways.

So here it goes.
 
Ok so first off I don't know if this has been done before if it has I have not seen it.
Second I am assuming all 60s had these bars because both mine do?
Third whats the deal with them? It seems there are easier ways to protecting the tail gate.

Here is what I did.

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Then I ran out of welding wire :doh: I was in process of welding 'tabs' so the ladder stops at a certain point. I will also add another ring and I have the option of adding one sliding ring on the bottom that telescopes inside the ladder. That way it can drop down even more if I want it to, but I am not sure if I will go that route or not.

So far I like it!
 
snowboardonsnow said:
Ok so first off I don't know if this has been done before if it has I have not seen it.
Second I am assuming all 60s had these bars because both mine do?
Third whats the deal with them? It seems there are easier ways to protecting the tail gate.

Here is what I did.



Then I ran out of welding wire :doh: I was in process of welding 'tabs' so the ladder stops at a certain point. I will also add another ring and I have the option of adding one sliding ring on the bottom that telescopes inside the ladder. That way it can drop down even more if I want it to, but I am not sure if I will go that route or not.

So far I like it!
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Snowman, that's a clever idea. is that tube attached with self tapping screws or?? I'd run some Gd 8 bolts with fender washers through to the inside of the tailgate for extra strength.. You might get some fat*** up there and rip em through ;)
 
reevesci said:
Snowman, that's a clever idea. is that tube attached with self tapping screws or?? I'd run some Gd 8 bolts with fender washers through to the inside of the tailgate for extra strength.. You might get some fat*** up there and rip em through ;)
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Its with the stock stainless steel long threaded screws... so does that mean not all 60s have these? There are 3 on each side and 2 in the middle. I think it will be okay but.. I am really wondering now are these bars a option?
 
So I ran a search from what I could find only 1980s and 1981s had these. But I think all others are pre drilled and tapped for it so if they are still available you could get one. Man that is funny I thought all 60s had these! I will keep my other one around I guess :clap:

Its kind of funny to think I just CUT IN HALF a rare toyota part.
 
I buy structural steel pipe, its DOM tubing but in pipe size. Then I just use a 100$ pipe bender, you have to work to get 180 degrees like on my shock hoops but really it works well. I would say there are two major down falls. First in the small sizes 3/4-1" structural pipe (tubing equivalent 1"-1 5/16) you can't get thin wall. which don't matter too much. Then the same above 1 1/4" or 1 5/8" equivalent it starts getting to 'thick' of a wall. where you can buy 2" tubing in .120 you can't in pipe. It starts getting above .140 wall above 1 1/4" I think.
Then there is the ease of use of a real 600$ bender with 200$ dies.

Sorry all of us pipe users feel we have to defend ourselves because of all the bad rap and people using a6 gas or water pipe over on :censor: pirate4x4
 
StevoJonesFJ60 said:
Yeah neither does mine, I've actually never heard of them until now.
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Well gosh, so all my jokes about pomel horsing the thing like a gymnast no one really understood then :clap:
Yea both mine had these, I thought they were 82's but they are late 81's, It would be kind of nice not to have them and like someone said you have your work bench and a true tail gate. But they really do protect that lip on the tail gate. I always load stuff in like lumber with the tail gate up and it just slides on the bar.
Interesting not many people know about these. I may have sold my other one when I was parting it out. I remember a guy saying hey whats that? I said thats a stock piece hah little did I know. Funny he was going "all original" on a 62.... I think I led him a stray if he did purchase it from me :doh::bounce: :whoops:
 
snowboardonsnow said:
How are those springs working out Steve? I what hybrid setup did you end up settling on?
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I ended up refurbishing the rear springs out of the D250 and mixing in a leaf out of the Chevy packs I had. its a 5 Leaf pack with dodge main and secondary, leaf 3 is the modified chevy and 4 and 5 are some dodge leaves.

Its got an offset pin so the split on the springs is 24/28 I'm running the 28" off of the spring hanger and with my shackles up front I bumped my wheelbase to 114".

I'll be putting the Cummins in the truck this weekend so I'll get some more feedback on how they sit with some weight on them. I really can't wait to get some "testing" started with the new setup but that's about a month or so from now at the earliest.
 
Thats the nice thing about doing a hybrid pack. You can usually tweak them just right even after they settle and that offset is great. So far that sounds just right, man the diesel is going to be sweet in that rig.
 
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