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- #341
This is pretty neat, the hydroboost / power steering pump. Big old sagniaw and moves lots of fluid. I banged it up a little bit when removing it so I might get a new one, only about $75 for a reman from Napa...
Biodiesel Piggie #2 Buildup (was Sad Sad day...) (6 Viewers)
- Thread starter dieselcruiserhead
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- #342
Finally, my big goal was to finally drop the body on the frame where it will sit. I had to take a little metal out of the body to do it because the frame is a little wider in the rear (about 6" overall) with the FZJ80 versus the 55 frame, which I think I mentioned earlier in the thread.. In the front, it is about the same.. I was hoping to pickup some sheet metal and make the new metal boxes from where I cut out the steel but havn't gotten that far yet..
Anyway, conflict #1 was the inner wheel wells which I had to trim out. The blocks I had it resting on were 5.5" so I figured 6" of trimming is good enough...
Anyway, conflict #1 was the inner wheel wells which I had to trim out. The blocks I had it resting on were 5.5" so I figured 6" of trimming is good enough...
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- #343
Here is the trimmed out rear inner wheel well, passenger side... You can also see where the conflict is between the bucket in the frame for the rear coil spring and the section of the body where the rear seat sits...
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- #344
So the solution to that is is to trim out where the bucket will interfere as well.. Some of my chicken scrabble...
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- #345
Then over to the driver's side...
Here you can see some of the rot that will be trimmed out. You can also see the inner wheel well where it was a little banged up from when we put the 55 body on the 80 frame, and where the interferance was. The only way to keep the body from not hitting the 80 frame and doing more damage was to put in the blocks between the two.. Luckily all this gets trimmed out so no big deal..
Here you can see some of the rot that will be trimmed out. You can also see the inner wheel well where it was a little banged up from when we put the 55 body on the 80 frame, and where the interferance was. The only way to keep the body from not hitting the 80 frame and doing more damage was to put in the blocks between the two.. Luckily all this gets trimmed out so no big deal..
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- #346
So my wheel wells matched and because it was hard to get accurate measurements easily with the curvature, I took the metal I trimmed out from the otherside and beat it so it arced back the other way and traced it and trimmed again...
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- #347
Here is the piece removed, one piece..
Then there were rear body mounts that also held the 55 gas tank that also interfered that I chose to remove while the body was jacked up for easy of removal... It's kind of hard to see so I put an arrow while resizing it.. Then I ground the remnants nice and smooth. You can see some of the surface rust under there, not too bad and it will all come off when at the sand blasters...
Then there were rear body mounts that also held the 55 gas tank that also interfered that I chose to remove while the body was jacked up for easy of removal... It's kind of hard to see so I put an arrow while resizing it.. Then I ground the remnants nice and smooth. You can see some of the surface rust under there, not too bad and it will all come off when at the sand blasters...
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- #348
The body itself isn't too heavy, I can lift one side of it all by myself but with me lifting there was no one to remove the blocks so I very carefully used a high lift jack...
Then you can see the body sitting on the frame, basically exactly as the FJ55 was designed, with it sitting on the frame using those cushions and regular old body mounts.. (which I still have to fab up)...
Then you can see the body sitting on the frame, basically exactly as the FJ55 was designed, with it sitting on the frame using those cushions and regular old body mounts.. (which I still have to fab up)...
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- #349
Here are the rear buckets and you can see a little clearer how the interferance would have played out.. The last one is a little drawing of the boxes I am going to make...
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- #350
Beginning to look like a FJ55 again..! Also with regular old backspaced wheels, even with the big FZJ80 axles, oddly enough it doesn't look that weird...
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- #351
Here is the rear.. The neat thing about hte 80 series frame is it would fit just fine if you wanted to have the 55 cosmetically appear stock.. I have the body sitting on a shock pin bushing in the rear to get the spacing right...
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- #352
Here are pics of the inner wheel wells with it lowered...
Nice updates....I feel your pain cleaning out the engine. Did the same thing on the 3fe...Sucked, the PS box seems like it must have been leaking for years.
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- #354
Then, onto the dash, I basically completely took apart the last of the dash, getting the dash pad out (which was a slight bitch) and the pedals and such.. Because I am planning on using some sort of later model heating system.. I was planning and was totally looking forward to using the 80 series stuff, but it is just too damn big, as you'll see below.. So I am now going to try FJ60 stuff (which is also very large) and if not, buck up the $$ for a compact little Vintage Air system which I have a feeling will unfortunbately probably be what most likely happens..
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- #355
I also got a clean gauge cluster / pad off ebay so I am psyched for that, and a nice clean dash pad from Dan Kliers as well (thanks Dan!).. Combined with the already pretty clean dash pad from the 55, I have a pretty good set of dash padding I think...!
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- #356
I'm also pretty psyched on the FZJ80 rear heater.. I will be reusing it and its OEM controlling switch and harness... It is big but not as big as it looks in the pictures and I should have no problem fitting it in..
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- #357
So that's it for about now.. Next is to probably fab up the motor mounts on the frame and figure out where the body mounts on the body side are not going to reside.. I will reuse some but will have to relocate others, particlarly in the rear... Then do the head gasket and all the gaskets on the engine, and get it ready to go with the trans and t-case, then mount that up inside the frame, then cut the body where it will be needed at the t-hump (possibly come up with an all new transmission hump all together)... Then do the sliders and the rear quarters, then once all that is ready, send it to the sand blasters.. So I still have a lot of work ahead of me in terms of trimming body and preping, as best as I can for sand blasting which is probably at least two or three months.. Again goal is the spring so suposse I still have some time..
Just to throw out an idea. I saw a 40 that had an A/C unit out of a conversion van in it a month or so ago. You know the kind that mounts on the inside of the rear headliner. Not the best option for a 40 since you canot remove the top but for a pig it might be the way to go. Could get the whole unit from a pic and pull for cheap and they blow a lot of air. That way you could just use a stock heater up front without hacking up the dash.
The rear heater looks good.
that's a really good idea, not sure how/if it would work with routing all that air, but those things do push a lot...brings back memories of the ol' 93 astro, ha ha
andre -- lookin awesome man...keep it up.
malphrus
