Builds Big Red Toy (1 Viewer)

[The Phoenician]

M, Great work on the rear. I've read good things about the Creepy Crawlers, how do you like them?

J,
I like them, but they are bias ply tires so not so great for the highway. It takes a minute or two to warm them up to where you're no longer vibrating the truck, though I must admit since I keep mine at 40psi I rarely feel it. The issue is they get really hot on the highway and it eats into them. I still prefer them over my goodyears because they are wider and the sidewalls are beefy as hell. I also don't need to air down because they are so wide.

On the proportioning valve. Let me clarify what I said in my post. I felt no need to add a proportioning valve with the FZJ80 rear axle. I did however retain the factory 60 series proportioning valve that is bolted to the bottom of the master cylinder from the factory. In fact I still have it, although I don't feel it's doing too much.

Other J,
Thanks for the clarification, and just so that I'm sure we're tracking on the same thing, I'm asking what you did with that plunger looking lever that's below the cab and controls how much the brake pressure is applied to the rear but the amount of travel it does. Did you delete that or is it still on the 80, but you can't tell if it's doing much? Thanks again man.

M

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Thanks for the clarification, and just so that I'm sure we're tracking on the same thing, I'm asking what you did with that plunger looking lever that's below the cab and controls how much the brake pressure is applied to the rear but the amount of travel it does. Did you delete that or is it still on the 80, but you can't tell if it's doing much? Thanks again man.

M

Mike, gotcha, you're talking about the LSPV (load sensing proportioning valve). FJ60s don't have them.

I'd just delete it.

 

[The Phoenician]

Ok sweet, that's what we were leaning towards anyway but weren't sure if that will cause the rear to lock up.
I know the 60s don't have them, but it's hard to tell what yours is anymore. You changed the body and the frame and the axles and the engine and the transmission and the transfer case and tires. the only constant that i can think of is the driver.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Ok sweet, that's what we were leaning towards anyway but weren't sure if that will cause the rear to lock up.
I know the 60s don't have them, but it's hard to tell what yours is anymore. You changed the body and the frame and the axles and the engine and the transmission and the transfer case and tires. the only constant that i can think of is the driver.

So true. Front clip, steering column, dashboard, rear seats and the upper hatch latch are pretty much all that's left from the original.

If you have a regular proportioning valve, you can set it up so that your rear brakes lock up at the same time, or just after, your fronts during extreme braking scenarios. That's what I'm planning on doing when I get this D60 in.

 

[robustbambi]

I installed a non functioning LSPV onto my truck 6 months or so ago after i broke my stock one with my herculean strength, it caused the rear wheels to lock up immediately with very little pressure on the brakes, so deleting the LSPV wasn't a good permanent fix in my case. Ill try and install my willwood PV that we talked about in the next few weeks and get back to you with the results to see if thats something you may want to do, Mike. And i was speaking with Mike at ACC and he said that you don't necessarily need to run all new brake line from the MC to the rear axle, you could just install the new Willwood PV inline between the stock LSPV and the rear axle if you wanted to.

 

[The Phoenician]

I'm about to head out to drill. Will be thinking this over the weekend. Since James is a former toyota master tech, I'll let him weigh in as well and see if we delete, or try it first then delete (normally that would be what i do, but time is against me right now). Still have to source some argon so we can weld the sway bar mounts.
Thanks for all of y'all input, keep it coming.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I installed a non functioning LSPV onto my truck 6 months or so ago after i broke my stock one with my herculean strength, it caused the rear wheels to lock up immediately with very little pressure on the brakes, so deleting the LSPV wasn't a good permanent fix in my case. Ill try and install my willwood PV that we talked about in the next few weeks and get back to you with the results to see if thats something you may want to do, Mike. And i was speaking with Mike at ACC and he said that you don't necessarily need to run all new brake line from the MC to the rear axle, you could just install the new Willwood PV inline between the stock LSPV and the rear axle if you wanted to.

Interesting.

Does your 62 have a proportioning valve that's right below the master cylinder? If not, then deleting without replacing is a bad idea, I agree. I didn't consider that the LSPV would be the only proportioning valve on a 62, but thinking about it more, that would make sense.

 

[The Phoenician]

I installed a non functioning LSPV onto my truck 6 months or so ago after i broke my stock one with my herculean strength, it caused the rear wheels to lock up immediately with very little pressure on the brakes, so deleting the LSPV wasn't a good permanent fix in my case. Ill try and install my willwood PV that we talked about in the next few weeks and get back to you with the results to see if thats something you may want to do, Mike. And i was speaking with Mike at ACC and he said that you don't necessarily need to run all new brake line from the MC to the rear axle, you could just install the new Willwood PV inline between the stock LSPV and the rear axle if you wanted to.

Patrick,,

Thanks for chiming in, I think we're all tracking the same target now.

Sent while sitting in traffic

 

[The Phoenician]

James sent me this mock up of what the wheel base would look like. I think it will look even better with the creepy crawlers on, assuming they clear the calipers with the spacers.

 

[mcguirejohnson]

James sent me this mock up of what the wheel base would look like. I think it will look even better with the creepy crawlers on, assuming they clear the calipers with the spacers.

That looks WIDE! I like the look. Are they bolted up or just wedged up against the axle? I don't think you will have to worry about rolling over with that stance..

 

[The Phoenician]

They are bolted because it's off the lift. Now I need wider fronts.

 

[mcguirejohnson]

They are bolted because it's off the lift. Now I need wider fronts.

Didn't even notice that.. Are you going to just run thicker spacers or are you thinking about running a wider axle up front?

 

[GLTHFJ60]

The re-entered h1s will clear the calipers without the spacers, no problem. It's the creepies on 15s you'll have to worry about.

 

[The Phoenician]

The re-entered h1s will clear the calipers without the spacers, no problem. It's the creepies on 15s you'll have to worry about.

I know, it's the creepys I was worried about. James said it won't be a problem,I'm heading back out there tomorrow to finish this up.

 

[The Phoenician]

Didn't even notice that.. Are you going to just run thicker spacers or are you thinking about running a wider axle up front?

Right now I'm broke so the front will stay the way it is. With time we'll see what happens

 

[The Phoenician]

ok quick update, sorry for the short messages earlier, was driving back and would reply when in traffic. James drove it around this weekend and he says it stops nicely (way better than before). He only hooked up one brake line, the left one needs a new line, but it still stops better than the drums he said. Going back out tomorrow to get it, and put on the new rotors, pads, weld the front hanger, and figure out the sway bar. Then bringing it home in time for round up next weekend.

 

[The Phoenician]

Finished up the axle swap today. Drove it around on dirt roads and on the highway at almost 70mph. This thing stops on a dime now. The disk brakes and the upgraded master cylinder are worth it. I decided that since the LSPV when fully open gives you a 60 front 40 rear split to just zip tie it open. If it locks up then I'll put a bracket on and figure it out. So far so good.

this is what it looks like with my humvee tires and spacers, way too wide for my liking, so I'll take the spacers off when I use these tires.


This is with the creepy crawlers. I like this look better and will be changing out the tires this week.


As you can see, it clears the calipers.


the bigger master cylinder


No the final product, but I bent the brake line by hand.


Overall the rear looks like it came from the factory when it was painted and buttoned up. I'm pleased with how it turned out and how it handles. James welded a bead on the front hanger where it was a bit loose. I need to keep retightening the U bolts until they seat completely. Will be changing out the gear lube after round up because of all the grinding and banging we did.

I'll take better pictures during the day and post them.

EDIT: we mocked up the sway bar and figured out how to weld it on, but things came up and i decided to try it out with out on for a bit. After driving it, I may not install one at all.

 

[robustbambi]

Holy s***e. Does that thing even fit in one lane anymore?!?!!? Nice work

 

[The Phoenician]

Holy s***e. Does that thing even fit in one lane anymore?!?!!? Nice work

Halfway thru I was thinking of making a 60 dually because it's gotten ridiculous

 

[The Phoenician]

This is the final product. I took these pictures after trying it on a dirt road












I think it looks clean and I'm definitely happy with the upgrade. More people should consider this. Of course none of this would be possible without the help of good friends and experts in this forum. Thanks for the encouragement and support.