Big Brakes - 14 Inch Rotors Wilwood Calipers

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hmm... yes and no. One of the benefits of a two piece setup is the compliance between the very hot rotor and the not so hot hat/hub. It may not be needed but is definitely a benefit. I have had the oem rotors warp causing severe braking vibration well before end of life. This condition is much less likely on a two piece hat rotor design.
I understand that there are advantages, I just don't see much benefit for an 80 considering the significant increase in cost. Nobody with the exception of scottyrana is taking their 80 to a track day.
 
but for an upgrade scenario two piece is the only option.
no one is going to cast and machine a solid one piece rotor as a upgrade part because it will have only one application.
it is somewhat of a moot point regardless of a benefit or not...
 
I was hoping for something like this designed for 17"wheels for $1000, $1500 tops

ProGrip™ Brake System for Jeep Wrangler JK

It is simply larger diameter rotors and caliper relocation brackets. If we could get someone to make them, the rotors can't be that expensive.

FRONT & REAR DRILLED SLOTTED BRAKE ROTORS AND 8 CERAMIC PADS LX450 Landcruiser

I have used the really high end rotors from Oz (can't remember the name) then I used these, didn't notice a difference these seem to work as well as the fancy ones.

Anyway a larger diameter rotor and brackets to use stock calipers or as an alternative maybe 100 or 200/Tundra calipers (which were designed for 17" wheel).
 
Very true but driving mine 15k a year on Phoenix highways can be slightly more adventurous than any track day. In my experiences, everyone at the track is on the same page, with the same intention and most want to just come home safe. Somehow there are many folks on the freeway that either can't see my 5500lb behemouth or simply don't care because they think that I'll see them and read their minds prompting emergency braking during a cutoff that makes me yearn for these brakes. $1500 for brakes or my insurance deductible isn't too hard to reason out. Arguements against stopping effectively are still hard for me to grasp.
 
What width are Tundra rotors? Could we find a 2 piece rotor setup that could work with Tundra calipers and pads? One huge plus of 2 piece set up is that one should be always able to find replacement rotors. The problem with my oversize rotor suggestion above is being SOL if they were discontinued.

I think 17" wheels is good size to design around since almost all 37" tires start at that wheel size.
 
You really can not compare the two...

The ProGrip system, is a SINGLE piston stock caliper. The rotor sits on the outside of the WMS not requiring a special hat to be machined. The rotor is a much thinner, much less heat dissipating capacity, etc.

That video goes a long way to show why Land Cruisers are better than jeeps...



I was hoping for something like this designed for 17"wheels for $1000, $1500 tops

ProGrip™ Brake System for Jeep Wrangler JK

It is simply larger diameter rotors and caliper relocation brackets. If we could get someone to make them, the rotors can't be that expensive.

FRONT & REAR DRILLED SLOTTED BRAKE ROTORS AND 8 CERAMIC PADS LX450 Landcruiser

I have used the really high end rotors from Oz (can't remember the name) then I used these, didn't notice a difference these seem to work as well as the fancy ones.

Anyway a larger diameter rotor and brackets to use stock calipers or as an alternative maybe 100 or 200/Tundra calipers (which were designed for 17" wheel).
 
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PFC has a selection of bobbins available in different heights. It wouldn't be too difficult to modify the brake hat you made to accept them. Along with the knock back, you may run into stress cracks from the rotor not being allowed to grow evenly.
 
Add regearing to the cost if going to 35-37" tires with bigger rims. @#$% it never ends with this truck.

yeah I'm starting to hear that wallet-sucking sound again..
 
PFC has a selection of bobbins available in different heights. It wouldn't be too difficult to modify the brake hat you made to accept them. Along with the knock back, you may run into stress cracks from the rotor not being allowed to grow evenly.

PFC is difficult to obtain info regarding their products. I was able to get the email for an engineer in their motorsports division who was very helpful but no longer responds to my emails. I haven't figured out their product support network. Wilwood is great. They answer the phone and are very helpful with all aspects of their products.
 
I think in this application a solid rotor (two piece bolted together) will likely be fine. There is zero mechanism to combat pad knock back in stock form. And again there is zero mechanism to allow for growth between the outside and inside of the rotor in stock form.

You are comparing motorsports requirements to street SUV requirements. Two very different animals. Is a floating two piece rotor ideal??? What is ideal? From a noise stand point it certainly isn't, I know in my GT-R everyone used to comment on the brake noise. From a heat transfer stand point it might be though, but this is not a racing application. I actually have the bobbins and hardware that came with my rotors but I am doubtful I will machine my aluminum hat to use them, it is quite a bit more machine intensive.
 
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I plan to tow a travel trailer with my 80 so a 6.0L is going in so I can actually pull it to where we like to go but the braking on it is already poor. If anyone makes this then I'll be one of the first few customers.
 
I plan to tow a travel trailer with my 80 so a 6.0L is going in so I can actually pull it to where we like to go but the braking on it is already poor. If anyone makes this then I'll be one of the first few customers.

I will need another week or so of random spare time here and there to pull everything together to see if I could actually make a kit and keep it under $2 WITH machining. I'm not sure I can though. But I'll try.
 
Maybe if you're towing a massive trailer? The trailer I'm going to be towing won't even exceed the factory towing capacity. Going with a 4L80 transmission and the suspension is already taken care of. After the motor/trans swap the brakes are all that's left.
 
I will need another week or so of random spare time here and there to pull everything together to see if I could actually make a kit and keep it under $2 WITH machining. I'm not sure I can though. But I'll try.


I'm in.
So just to be clear, the kit will include a V8, BBK, tranny, upgraded suspension, cup holders and labor. Sweet!
 
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