best Cheap mods.
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I used a small piece of 1/2 x1/2 angle about 2 3/4 inches long or so to do the same thing. Turned around the rear seat mounts as an earlier post on the mud board. Had to drill a couple of holes in the angle and grind(file) a little off the front side but it was a no banana job . May be 30 minutes or so, A little longer if painted.........Benson said:
I'm going to qualify "cheap" as less then $100.
Front and rear undercarriage rock lights.
Maglight holder and bottle holder (same pic).
Replaced ashtray with switch panel and welded ARB switch plate to shifter for ease of use (same pic).
Split tailgate.
Spare tire shovel holder.
The velcro on my softtop always comes undone at the bar that runs parallel to the top of the door when I'm on the freeway, then the top starts bowing out so I made a brace out of 1" flat steel to hold the softtop against the round support bar even when the velcro comes undone.
MF-1050 mounted beside driver's seat.
Front and rear undercarriage rock lights.
Maglight holder and bottle holder (same pic).
Replaced ashtray with switch panel and welded ARB switch plate to shifter for ease of use (same pic).
Split tailgate.
Spare tire shovel holder.
The velcro on my softtop always comes undone at the bar that runs parallel to the top of the door when I'm on the freeway, then the top starts bowing out so I made a brace out of 1" flat steel to hold the softtop against the round support bar even when the velcro comes undone.
MF-1050 mounted beside driver's seat.
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are they tent pegs holding the back doors closed?
acouple more use to have v.w.s ( found some old parts) wanted to get rid of the huge oil bath air cleaner on my f motor, had a 9in chrome air cleaner laying around,due to small size of single barrel carb (jb welded) a step down plate and a weber 34ict(vwstuff) ruber carb sleeve ...works good
p.o. removed tool box under drivers seat.....ahhhhh
seat is bolted to a rigged up flat bar hoop in front? same friend gave me a tool box and lid ...(still need to weld in) removed seat,bolted two u chanel things for hella lights to the hoop and seat raised front of drivers seat about 1 1/2 in ,can be pinned to make easy access to tool box (once i get off my buttt) total cost nothing every thing was in garage?
p.o. removed tool box under drivers seat.....ahhhhh
seat is bolted to a rigged up flat bar hoop in front? same friend gave me a tool box and lid ...(still need to weld in) removed seat,bolted two u chanel things for hella lights to the hoop and seat raised front of drivers seat about 1 1/2 in ,can be pinned to make easy access to tool box (once i get off my buttt) total cost nothing every thing was in garage?
Maglite Wall Clips To Back Of Licence Plate. For winch rollers.
Full_M3tal said:
awesome idea - gonna do that one soon as I currently have no real place to put my plate - which is a law in CA - becuase I have rollers (fairlead), brush guard, shackle mounts, all in a cut down short bumper. can you just get those at Target or something?
Yea different areas sweat it ?I was told by a cop 8/9 years ago if that vehicle your in is a high thieft vehicle and it doesnt have a front plate thell stop you just to check your the registered owner,all my vehicles i've never ran a front plate?
James
James
here are my cheapo's
$0.45
nickles in the clutch fan housing to eliminate clutch i think it was nine of them.
$3.75
dancing hula girl on dash no 40 is complete without one
thats all everything else cost me a bundle
$0.45
nickles in the clutch fan housing to eliminate clutch i think it was nine of them.
$3.75
dancing hula girl on dash no 40 is complete without one
thats all everything else cost me a bundle
The best cheap mod that Ive done...
Replaced the missing elbow for the air intake for the heater by using sheet rubber and black duct tape. Less than $10
Now I do not have to smell all the interesting smells in the truck that should stay under the hood.
Chuck
Replaced the missing elbow for the air intake for the heater by using sheet rubber and black duct tape. Less than $10
Now I do not have to smell all the interesting smells in the truck that should stay under the hood.
Chuck
New seats for me, got them out of a toyota tercell from the dump, used some angle iron, and old steel to get them in the turck - free!
I picked up one of those cheap plastic consoles from O'Reilly for like
7 bucks, it fits real tight between the front seats so you dont have to drill any holes for mounting and it works real well.
7 bucks, it fits real tight between the front seats so you dont have to drill any holes for mounting and it works real well.
Best cheap mods for me were the following:
Insulation on the firewall and under the transmission hump to keep the heat from the engine at least partially blocked from the cab (I live in the desert).
I rotated the parking brake housing 3/4 inch to allow a sending unit for a speedometer that didn't rely on a certain gear to give a correct speed reading. I bought the replacement instrument cluster cover from MAF and replaced all of the gauges.
Insulation on the firewall and under the transmission hump to keep the heat from the engine at least partially blocked from the cab (I live in the desert).
I rotated the parking brake housing 3/4 inch to allow a sending unit for a speedometer that didn't rely on a certain gear to give a correct speed reading. I bought the replacement instrument cluster cover from MAF and replaced all of the gauges.
added 5" of leg room in my '81 hj47
i took some 3/4" by 3/4" angle iron and used it to secure some aluminum bar stock where the seat rails used to be, but i made them long enough to extend about 6" behind the rear bolts. after flattening out the front flange of the seat mount, i re-bolted the seat to the bar stock 5" behind where they were originally. i'm 6'6", so this made a huge difference and only cost a few bucks. woulda used the classic cruisers adapter, but the website says it's only good through '78.
-steve
ps. will likely change from aluminum to steel at some point.
i took some 3/4" by 3/4" angle iron and used it to secure some aluminum bar stock where the seat rails used to be, but i made them long enough to extend about 6" behind the rear bolts. after flattening out the front flange of the seat mount, i re-bolted the seat to the bar stock 5" behind where they were originally. i'm 6'6", so this made a huge difference and only cost a few bucks. woulda used the classic cruisers adapter, but the website says it's only good through '78.
-steve
ps. will likely change from aluminum to steel at some point.
Best FJ40 Mods Under $50
Hey All,
I saw a similar post under the 60's Tech forum and found the ideas brilliant. After spending most of the last week (and quite a bit of $) working on my 40, thought it would be great to hear what some of your best mods under $50 bucks are.
Looking forward to your GENIUS!!!
Todd
Hey All,
I saw a similar post under the 60's Tech forum and found the ideas brilliant. After spending most of the last week (and quite a bit of $) working on my 40, thought it would be great to hear what some of your best mods under $50 bucks are.
Looking forward to your GENIUS!!!
Todd
I didn't think you do anything on a 40 that costs less than $50.00.
I'll start it off with changing your oil.
I'll start it off with changing your oil.