Best carb upgrade for '78 2F...?

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I’m not gonna get any love for this, but have had good luck with holley 350 cfm model 2300 carbs.

If it was me, I would buy a new one and mod with all the well known tricks for off road use and spend the money to make the throttle cable really correct. Also may have to give up on oem air filter (but all this is required for all non oem carb / efi installations).

And I say all this after putting in FITECH efi. It works fine, but the holley would out run it (so far - tuning efi is not like tuning a holley).
 
I’m not gonna get any love for this, but have had good luck with holley 350 cfm model 2300 carbs.

If it was me, I would buy a new one and mod with all the well known tricks for off road use and spend the money to make the throttle cable really correct. Also may have to give up on oem air filter (but all this is required for all non oem carb / efi installations).

And I say all this after putting in FITECH efi. It works fine, but the holley would out run it (so far - tuning efi is not like tuning a holley).
Do you need an adapter or use a spacer?
 
Both the Holley 2300 carb and the Holley 2300 Sniper EFI require the same adapter. A number of options of those. I am a proponent of efi, particularly if: you don't drive frequently, drive to high altitude commonly, and/or off camber alot. EFI benefits are greatest in more mountinous areas. A daily/regular diver on moderate roads and altatudes can be fine with a good carb, if maintained. I liked my Holley 2300 carb (would change jets at very high altitude), as well as tolerated/OK with a Weber, and Rochester 2 Jet.
 
Both the Holley 2300 carb and the Holley 2300 Sniper EFI require the same adapter. A number of options of those. I am a proponent of efi, particularly if: you don't drive frequently, drive to high altitude commonly, and/or off camber alot. EFI benefits are greatest in more mountinous areas. A daily/regular diver on moderate roads and altatudes can be fine with a good carb, if maintained. I liked my Holley 2300 carb (would change jets at very high altitude), as well as tolerated/OK with a Weber, and Rochester 2 Jet.
What year is your rig?
I'm 8,600 ft above sea level...
 
You're quite high elevation in Bogota, no point in upgrading carb, just fine tune your timing, vacuum and jetting. You already have the good carb without emissions bits.
Did all that. I'm basically tired of being ruled by my carburator..I need reliability, for taking folks into the mountains.
 
Right, that means it's not setup correctly. It is easily run at much higher elevations without support. You need to learn how to test vacuum and inspect fuel/spark on the truck as they all affect driveability. For example, I've taken numerous 2F trucks without any jetting adjustment and only advanced timing and they run smooth at 12-13000k (2-390m)

Download the FSM and run through the tuneup section item by item then have the carburetor rebuilt according to the FSM. You should also look into compression and leakdown tests and provide results.
 
What year is your rig?
I'm 8,600 ft above sea level...
1969, but converting to V8 (ran F 6cyl. For years) In Colorado, in the “Front Range” north of Denver, where the high plains meets the high mountains. So live about 5,000 feet, short drive into the mountains from 6,000 to say 9,000 in an hour or so on highways; with good trails up to 12,000 or more, potentially all within 3-4 hours and sometimes back down the same day. And giant temp and weather condition changes. Ran carburetors for years, but with new V8 will fuel inject before or possibly after break in (I have a nicely rebuilt Qjet I might run for initial break in. Like I say I won’t drive every week (carbs evap or leak fuel, especially new alcohol fuel), have fast altitude changes, and drive and bounce on rocks.. what FI is best at. I could live with carbs and I’m pretty good with many flavors, but FI is better for my use.
 
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1969, but converting to V8 (ran F 6cyl. For years) In Colorado, in the “Front Range” north of Denver, where the high plains meets the high mountains. So live about 5,000 feet, short drive into the mountains from 6,000 to say 9,000 in an hour or so on highways; with good trails up to 12,000 or more, potentially all within 3-4 hours and sometimes back down the same day. And giant temp and weather condition changes. Ran carburetors for years, but with new V8 will fuel inject before or possibly after break in (I have a nicely rebuilt Qjet I might run for initial break in. Like I say I won’t drive every week (carbs evap or leak fuel, especially new alcohol fuel), have fast altitude changes, and drive and bounce on rocks.. what FI is best at. I could live with carbs and I’m pretty good with many flavors, but FI is better for my use.
...interesting. Mine evaps and leaks fuel into oil too so fk it. Engine bored out to a 3f with header and dual pipes so with tuned exhaust want tuned air/fuel as well. I'll be running to 3,000 meters down around Ecuador border. Why a V8? ~Cheers ..
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1969, but converting to V8 (ran F 6cyl. For years) In Colorado, in the “Front Range” north of Denver, where the high plains meets the high mountains. So live about 5,000 feet, short drive into the mountains from 6,000 to say 9,000 in an hour or so on highways; with good trails up to 12,000 or more, potentially all within 3-4 hours and sometimes back down the same day. And giant temp and weather condition changes. Ran carburetors for years, but with new V8 will fuel inject before or possibly after break in (I have a nicely rebuilt Qjet I might run for initial break in. Like I say I won’t drive every week (carbs evap or leak fuel, especially new alcohol fuel), have fast altitude changes, and drive and bounce on rocks.. what FI is best at. I could live with carbs and I’m pretty good with many flavors, but FI is better for my use.

I periodically would go from sea-level in the midwest to the high elevations in Colorado on vacation. I run a sbc with a qjet. I found I didn't have to mess with the carb, but had to advance the timing periodically to regain proper idle. I always had my dist clamped pretty tight but still movable just in case i needed more. A few times I upped the idle screw too.
 
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