That’s the one. Once you get that plus the overhead console and front ash tray delete panel done I think I’ll be buying like 5 Makes from you. That escalated quickly, started out with only an OHC panel.
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That’s the one. Once you get that plus the overhead console and front ash tray delete panel done I think I’ll be buying like 5 Makes from you. That escalated quickly, started out with only an OHC panel.
@BenCC : I'll throw my hat in the ring as "interested" in what you'd come up with for OEM replacement fog lights. I did a retrofit with Morimoto XBs but I have a feeling that a couple of brighter Rigid (or similar) pods on each side would be a bit brighter.
I've also thought about putting 2 pods on each side of the license plate behind the grill, but I don't think that really applies to what you're doing. Maybe print out OEM looking grills with openings for pods?
Love what you're doing here!
@BenCC : I'll throw my hat in the ring as "interested" in what you'd come up with for OEM replacement fog lights. I did a retrofit with Morimoto XBs but I have a feeling that a couple of brighter Rigid (or similar) pods on each side would be a bit brighter.
I've also thought about putting 2 pods on each side of the license plate behind the grill, but I don't think that really applies to what you're doing. Maybe print out OEM looking grills with openings for pods?
Love what you're doing here!
double post
triple post
This thread is fantastic! Keep up the great work! I look forward to seeing some of your future projects!
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- #467
Thanks. The plan is to make factor look grill that fits the fog light place and mounts two cube LEDs in each side.
As you are working on the ashtray replacement panel, could you see if fitting a mount for the Kenwood 71A head (like you did for the overhead console) would be feasible? I have mine mounted via a RAM mount and like to rest my palm on the shifter to poke at the buttons on the radio, but it would be great to clean up my center console area.
If it turns out to be feasible, how about fitting a network cable pass through in the panel for the Mic? I drilled the stock panel to fit this pass through:
Amazon product ASIN B00R3B0BP8
I am loving all of the development in this thread. Keep up the good work!
If it turns out to be feasible, how about fitting a network cable pass through in the panel for the Mic? I drilled the stock panel to fit this pass through:
Amazon product ASIN B00R3B0BP8
I am loving all of the development in this thread. Keep up the good work!
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- #469
Once I got the panel fitted, mounting scheme is customizable. That is definitely a good place for radio control unit.
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- #470
I have been designing the replacement panel in a modular way. So it can be made per each person’s individual need without adding too much CAD work.
Could you 3d print some rear wheel skirts with embedded rare earth magnets to affix to the fenders?
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- #473
I cannot. Wheel skirt is too large. I can print up to 19 in x 19 in. And the performance of 3D printed parts deteriorate dramatically with increasing size. I mean for large part, it will break easily.
How hard would the V7 be to install - I'm good at following directions but not an electrician so need some sort of written instructions to follow.
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- #475
I will try to make some instructions.
Eyedaho
SILVER Star
You're doing some great work, and your designs look awesome! For mounting the Blue Sea dual battery switch, is M6V4 the best option? I just have the blank in that location currently, so it would use that wasted space. I'm wondering if the horizontal mounting makes the switch prone to inadvertent toggling though? Thanks!
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- #477
Thanks. For the Blue Sea Dual Battery Switch, you can mount it in multiple places:
Option 1: With Make 2, it can be mounted in the bottom right blank panel.
Option 2: With M4 V1, M4 V2, Make 5, Make 10, or Make 11, it can be mounted in the overhead console.
Option 3:With Make 6 (V1 through V4), it can be mounted in the blank pocket. Any one of V1, V2, V3, and V4 will do. You can select one based on your need. In all four versions of Make 6, the switch is fully recessed to avoid accidental activation. I have the switch in there for about two months, never have it triggered inadvertently.
Thanks for asking this question. I didn’t realize there are so many options for this switch.
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- #478
For Make 7 V1 which mounts two 12V outlets, the wiring is not hard. There is one 12V outlet in the center storage box. I don't have any device in there. I cut the wires and connected to the new 12V outlets which are mounted on Make 7 V1.
Step 1: Remove the #39 fuse in the kick panel fuse box.
Step 2: Open the retractable cupholder at the second row. I used electric tape to fix the retractable mechanism to get it out of my way.
Step 3: Cut the two wires that connect to the factory 12V outlet.
Step 4: Solder wires, positive to positive, negative to negative. (You don't have to cut the wires. You can use this to tap the wire.)
Step 5: Put everything back in place.
Step 6: Put #39 fuse back.
For Make 7 V2, the 12V outlet shares the same steps. The 120V AC outlet needs to have this harness. Connect Hot and Neutral to your inverter's Hot and Neutral, Ground to the chassis.
This looks awesome. I went to look at my panel today and realized I requested the wrong thing. My sleeping platform covers the ashtray, so I wouldn’t be able to use that one with my current setup.
What I meant to request was a third row cup holder replacement panel with usb power and maybe a Toyota oem-like or carling switch?
Thanks Ben just what I need - looks like a one banana job.
Jim
Jim