Build Ben3DBuild

[MongooseGA]

You could inlay the letters with two pieces sandwiched together: one black top piece with the letters cut out, and a white bottom with raised letters penetrating into the top piece. Only the centers of the “a”s would have to be painted black.

That's a pretty good idea. Ben is doing me a really cool favor with this one, so I'm good with the less design intensive option. Plus, I like a little hands-on.

Whoah, that gear shift cap is awesome!

Should be pretty cool. I've had the idea for a while and when Ben started making all these great things, I definitely had to see if he could do it!

 

[BenCC]

You could inlay the letters with two pieces sandwiched together: one black top piece with the letters cut out, and a white bottom with raised letters penetrating into the top piece. Only the centers of the “a”s would have to be painted black.

I will try this! Thanks.

 

[BenCC]

Update on Make 12, the Scangauge mount for the miniLink overhead console. @Jczajka

 

[TheForger]

Use white fingernail polish and brush it over all of the letters. Then take a cloth with acetone on it and wipe the surface and it will look good. I did that on a few of my AR's that didn't have a colored model or fire selector switch and it's held up nicely going on 3yrs.

Will the material you're using degrade at all if acetone is applied?

 

[Jczajka]

Update on Make 12, the Scangauge mount for the miniLink overhead console. @Jczajka

View attachment 2144172

This is the fixture for the microphone.

View attachment 2144177

View attachment 2144173

View attachment 2144179

This is dope! Super cool integration with the mic.

This is a great option for anyone with the old mini Homelink that I have in my older LX.

 

[BenCC]

This is dope! Super cool integration with the mic.

This is a great option for anyone with the old mini Homelink that I have in my older LX.

Thanks for your patience.

It is a quite difficult project actually. The design space is very limited and I do want to make it fully reversible.

Some more updates.

Original plan was to use snap fit. But I don't think it is secure upon inspecting the prototypes. I added a "wishbone" bracket to mate with the overhead console utilizing three existing holes. The mount is fastened to the bracket. The thick black cable is the Ethernet cable from the Scangauge.

Some overviews (Ignore the honeycomb pattern. I was doing some surface finish experiment and screwed up):

The "backpack" pocket is for accommodating the Ethernet cable and its connector.

 

[pili]

@BenCC - does the abs print sand/paint ok if I were to do it myself? Interested in the Make 6. Hard to justify the cost on the resin print for such a small part to be honest. thx

 

[BenCC]

@BenCC - does the abs print sand/paint ok if I were to do it myself? Interested in the Make 6. Hard to justify the cost on the resin print for such a small part to be honest. thx

You can sand, primer, and paint ABS. Resin part has smoother finish. The sanding takes about 1 mins on the resin part, take longer on the ABS part.

 

[pili]

You can sand, primer, and paint ABS. Resin part has smoother finish. The sanding takes about 1 mins on the resin part, take longer on the ABS part.

Thanks, will PM you.

 

[BenCC]

@MongooseGA

Baking some cookies

These are still prototypes made with grey resin. They look good. I will switch to black resin.

 

[BenCC]

Use white fingernail polish and brush it over all of the letters. Then take a cloth with acetone on it and wipe the surface and it will look good. I did that on a few of my AR's that didn't have a colored model or fire selector switch and it's held up nicely going on 3yrs.

Will the material you're using degrade at all if acetone is applied?

I tried this on a print with defect. It worked!

I don’t have white paint. I sprayed white primer on the top surface, waited one hour to let it dry and wipe the surface with acetone.

 

[Sloth Cruiser]

@MongooseGA

Baking some cookies

View attachment 2144510

These are still prototypes made with grey resin. They look good. I will switch to black resin.

You going to produce these? Does the stock one just pop off?

 

[BenCC]

You going to produce these? Does the stock one just pop off?

I believe the original one is glued. I will post some pictures tonight.

 

[mockknight]

I tried this on a print with defect. It worked!

I don’t have white paint. I sprayed white primer on the top surface, waited one hour to let it dry and wipe the surface with acetone.

View attachment 2144652

Could you make pattern justified to the right and have it says this?

HigH
N
CrawlL

 

[BenCC]

Make 13: Transfer Case Lever Cap

13.1 Overview of the Final Product

(Sanded with #320 and #800 sandpaper. No paint.)

13.2 Introduction

This is to address one of the requests. The original cover has a flat bottom. This new design has a indented bottom to have a larger contact area.

13.3 Design and Fabrication

Small parts are difficult to print. It requites few or no defects. This part is printed with resin on a SLA (stereolithography) printer. The smallest feature is only 0.4 mm (0.016 inch), which pushes my SLA printer to its limit.

The words can be custom-made based on individual requests. But any word longer than five letters may not fit.

Design 1: Credit to @BenCC
Design 2: Credit to @MongooseGA
Design 3&4: Credit to @mockknight

The resin printed cover is the staring point of a DIY project. You still need to paint the letters and sand the surface. Some useful links:

Build - Ben3DBuild

You could inlay the letters with two pieces sandwiched together: one black top piece with the letters cut out, and a white bottom with raised letters penetrating into the top piece. Only the centers of the “a”s would have to be painted black. That's a pretty good idea. Ben is doing me a really...

forum.ih8mud.com

Build - Ben3DBuild

You could inlay the letters with two pieces sandwiched together: one black top piece with the letters cut out, and a white bottom with raised letters penetrating into the top piece. Only the centers of the “a”s would have to be painted black. That's a pretty good idea. Ben is doing me a really...

forum.ih8mud.com

Font: Orbitron

13.4 Purchase List to Complete the Installation

None.

13.5 Purchase Link

$10 + $7.9 (USPS Priority)
Note 1: The part is printed with black resin. For the final finish, sanding and painting is needed. Please check this thread.
Note 2: Letters can be custom made.

 

[BenCC]

One Make 1 printed in black ABS.

 

[BenCC]

Sending this Make 6 V4 out to @pili today.

 

[DC470]

Thanks for your patience.

It is a quite difficult project actually. The design space is very limited and I do want to make it fully reversible.

Some more updates.

Original plan was to use snap fit. But I don't think it is secure upon inspecting the prototypes. I added a "wishbone" bracket to mate with the overhead console utilizing three existing holes. The mount is fastened to the bracket. The thick black cable is the Ethernet cable from the Scangauge.

View attachment 2144427

Some overviews (Ignore the honeycomb pattern. I was doing some surface finish experiment and screwed up):

View attachment 2144429

The "backpack" pocket is for accommodating the Ethernet cable and its connector.

View attachment 2144430

Hi Ben, I’m really interested in this setup. I have the homelink in my LX with an identical microphone as well. Where can I purchase one? I want to get both the scanguage and the microphone off my dash

 

[BenCC]

Hi Ben, I’m really interested in this setup. I have the homelink in my LX with an identical microphone as well. Where can I purchase one? I want to get both the scanguage and the microphone off my dash

Thanks for your interest. I will post something in about 2.5 hours. The final version is being printed now.

 

[BenCC]

Make 12 V1: Scangauge II Mount for Mini-Homelink Overhead Console

Overview of three versions

M12V1.1 Overview of the Final Product

M12V1.2 Introduction

This make mounts a Scangauge II and a microphone on the overhead console equipped with the mini-Link.

M12V1.3 Design and Installation

Steps of assembling.
1: Secure the microphone.
2: Attache the Ethernet cable and slide the Scangauge II in the mount.
3: Snap into the overhead panel.
4: Have the bracket ready with screws.
5: Attach the bracket as shown in picture and tighten the screws.
Note: Don't over tight.
6: This is to show the complete assembly. No wires are visible.

Original plan was to attach the mount to the overhead panel through snap fit. But I don't think it is secure upon inspecting the prototypes. I added a "wishbone" bracket to mate with the overhead console utilizing three existing holes. The wishbone enhances the security of the snap fitting. No rattle at all.

M12V1.4 Purchase List to Complete the Installation

Ethernet Extension Cable

M12V1.5 Purchase Link

$49 + $7.9 (USPS Priority). Printed with ABS in Tan, Grey, or Black. PM for Direct Paypal Payment.