Bad idle solenoid rebuild (1 Viewer)

[thebigredrocker]

Well it's not much of a rebuild, but I took apart my malfuntioning I.S. and got it working. Perhaps this has been documented.

Drill out the 3 dimples holding the cover on. To remove the cover I clamped one of the mounting ears in a vise. I then used channel lock waterpump pliers to wiggle the cover off.

Clean up the plunger and the hole it resides in with waterproof sandpaper. Mine was full of crud. As you can see, the rod plunger was coated in 47 years of gunk.

I drilled a hole(3/32" bit) slightly smaller than my 2.5mm stainless screws and just ran the screws in. I didn't use a tap, the screws snugged up good and should be fine.

I measured the spring in case someone wants to replace one. About 28mm long.

The spring rides over the rod base. It's about 3.11mm.

It clicks when 12v's is applied now. Rod tip retracts 5mm.

 

[DougAustinTx]

I always appreciate it when someone shares a way to save an original part. Thanks!

 

[thebigredrocker]

The old grommets were cracked so I used some liquid tape so help reseal where needed. Doesn't look pretty, but will work.

 

[65swb45]

I learned how to do this when @tucker74 sent me a completely disassembled carb to rebuild, along with the ICS. I have done a few more since then, but have not ever had to drill the divets to pop the cover. A few small screwdrivers placed strategically around the cover have always been sufficient.

 

[thebigredrocker]

I learned how to do this when @tucker74 sent me a completely disassembled carb to rebuild, along with the ICS. I have done a few more since then, but have not ever had to drill the divets to pop the cover. A few small screwdrivers placed strategically around the cover have always been sufficient.

Haha... The last couple times I've called you for parts I've had a short list of questions written on a Post-it. Guess I shoulda slipped "how to fix sticking idle solenoids" in as a question

Here's my redneck stopper. A 5/32" aluminum rivot

Edit: Someone elso drilled the Aisan

 

[Coolerman]

Once you pop the cover off can you easily replace the solenoid wire(s) too? That seems to be the problem I see a lot. The wires are too short due to PO repairs...

 

[65swb45]

Haha... The last couple times I've called you for parts I've had a short list of questions written on a Post-it. Guess I shoulda slipped "how to fix sticking idle solenoids" in as a question

Here's my redneck stopper. A 5/32" aluminum rivot

Edit: Someone elso drilled the Aisan View attachment 1389427

Mark

You could have also posted the question to the forum. That way I can share the answers with lots of people, not just one.

 

[thebigredrocker]

Coolerman, I didn't mess with the wires. I'll see if I can get a good pic of the innards.

 

[65swb45]

Coolerman, I didn't mess with the wires. I'll see if I can get a good pic of the innards.

I did not take that Mark was implying that. But based on HIS experience,cwhich is also mine,cut wires are a common problem.

 

[thebigredrocker]

@Coolerman ,
I went deeper into the I.S.

Pic with cover removed.

It appeared to me that the guts were held by something resembling a bucked rivot. I used a dremel EZ LOCK cutting disc to grind around the edges. I then carefully used a punch to drive it out.

I used a micro file clean up the nub that holds the plunger barrel to the cover. That made reinsertion easier

 

[thebigredrocker]

At this point everything slides out. You now have max access to what's left of the wires. My wires are still fine so I just put everything back together. I didn't bother to look for new wire grommets. It would be simple to replace them.

I used a smooth drill bit end to press the plunger barrel back in. The waxing gibbous shaped dust cover can be pressed into place by hand.

I opted not to use a set screw where I did the grinding. I figured JB weld is strong enough, so that's what I used.

After assembly, I tested it and the rod still retracts 5mm when juice is applied