At a crossroads - Do I open this can of worms? (V8 Location/Clutch Replacement) (1 Viewer)

[sometlc]

The walker pipe is made to use with the ramhorn manifolds and will work fine. What condition is your exhaust in though? You only need to cut and patch a 4" section out. What transmission are you mated to? I have the sm420 which is a shorter set-up. It will clear the heater with the measurements I sent you with minor heating and bending of the shifter(just barely).

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

My exhaust is in pretty rough shape - I also need to remember to take a look at the routing. If it's like the rest of the truck, it's probably wrong...

I'm running the stock Toyota 4-speed transmission. I figure, if I can mount the engine far enough back to clear the heater with (even minor) bending, then moving it 3-4 more inches back with the 60-series top plate would put it almost exactly back where it belongs. All theoretical at this point, but it's an experiment that might be worth trying...

 

[bikersmurf]

X2 on 60 cover. Mine is about 3-4" forward... The new hole reuses the front two stock as the new rear bolt holes. With a 60 cover and a modded T-Case shifter I could use a stock tranny cover.

1/2" further back (or less) and my driveshafts would both be the same length. I also measured from the inside of the front crossmember.

 

[sometlc]

Bikersmurf, What did yours measure from the inside of the crossmember?

 

[bikersmurf]

21.5" I wanted to go back another 1/2" but the #5 spark plug would have been blocked by the stock manual steering box. I've since found a shorter u-joint 13/16" plug socket that would've worked. I've always thought equal length driveshafts would be a bonus.

 

[pb4ugo]

Ramshorn manifolds had a heat riser butterfly valve on the passenger side, which was about 2" or 3" thick. You need that spacer to make the walker Y pipe to work without modifying it. You either need to find an old 1 & remove the butterfly & seal the holes or there's web site that sells them w/out the butterfly & pivot holes in it.. I think it was a compny who was involved in classic Vette's.

Or just have an exhaust shop make your Y pipe & exhaust w/out the riser.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Does anyone know if the FJ60 top plate mod actually works? It is rumored all over the place but I can't find anyone who has actually installed it.

I also remember a post of a guy trying 2-3 different 60-series plates and none of them fit...

 

[bikersmurf]

I've seen enough posts from reliable sources to be confident it works. I've also known enough guys that have put in 60 series 5 speeds without 40 series top plates to know its further back on a 60.

That said, I've also seen posts about trouble when the 60 series top doesn't have the same bolt pattern. I'd like to do it some day, but a slightly modded lever has been working for me for 18 years... So it's not high on my list.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

I've done a little additional reading, it looks like it's only the 80/81-84 top covers that fit. It also looks like they're not necessarily interchangeable BJ to FJ either - so it looks like I'm looking for an 81-84 FJ60 top cover to cannibalize. Anyone reading this thread have a spare laying around?

It looks like there was a "short" and "long" H42 transmission, and only the "short" version from the early 80's with the relocated shift tower will work...

 

[sometlc]

I would think after 18 years you would be okay with it. haha.

Sometimes its about the next upgrade, mod, repair,, tweak, etc. that keeps a gut going. They are never really done.

 

[447xpro]

I have a set of center collector Stainless Steel headers taken out of a V8 FJ40 $50, I also have a set of AA V8 motor mounts.
Also a Ranger overdrive added in front of your trans puts the V8 in the correct position and becomes the adapter, trans stays where it is.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

@447xpro - Thanks for the offer - do you mean headers, or a Y pipe? If they're truly headers, I will pass. I'm going to stick with Ram's Horns. An overdrive is overkill for the amount of off-road this truck will see, and also not in the budget, but good to know for future reference!

 

[madoc1]

@447xpro - Thanks for the offer - do you mean headers, or a Y pipe? If they're truly headers, I will pass. I'm going to stick with Ram's Horns. An overdrive is overkill for the amount of off-road this truck will see, and also not in the budget, but good to know for future reference!

I just dug around and found my old copy of advance adapters toy conversion manual. it was $10 about 8 years ago, a bargain for all the info. might contact them and find out if it is still available.

jim

 

[bikersmurf]

I would think after 18 years you would be okay with it. haha.

Sometimes its about the next upgrade, mod, repair,, tweak, etc. that keeps a gut going. They are never really done.

I am completely... A part of me doesn't want to cut a new hole in the replacement Tranny cover that's sitting waiting to be installed. Annother part is saying... Cut a new hole and don't muck with the rebuilt trans...

It's only Sheet metal.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Ok, revisting this and decided to go with the Downey setup (thanks, Jim).

This looks like the walker Y-pipe I would need:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-42087/overview/make/chevrolet

Part number 42087.

Also, it looks like year one sells the heat riser delete plate: does this look right?

https://www.yearone.com/Product/1964-72-chevelle-monte-carlo-el-camino/js015

Looks like a heat riser delete plat for a 2.5in. ram's horn, which looks a lot like what I'd probably be going with:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-674-501

confirmed at the Dorman Website (and here on MUD) that these are 2.5in manifolds.

That said, I've read here:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/ramshorns-exhaust-details.559510/

That if I run two "left side" manifolds, I won't need the heat riser delete, as both sides are symmetrical. Can anyone confirm this?

Going to be a little slow in collecting all the parts over the next few months, but glad to finally be undoing what should be the last of the PO's BIG **** ups. Then on to the 10,000 little ones...

 

[Cdaniel]

That if I run two "left side" manifolds, I won't need the heat riser delete, as both sides are symmetrical. Can anyone confirm this?
...

Worked for me

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Worked for me

@Cdaniel - Any way to really tell which is which, or is the left side simply the "one without the bracket."

Furthermore - Any chance you used the Y-pipe above, and can confirm that's the correct one?

 

[Cdaniel]

@Cdaniel - Any way to really tell which is which, or is the left side simply the "one without the bracket."

Furthermore - Any chance you used the Y-pipe above, and can confirm that's the correct one?

That's the pipe I used. And the right side manifold is the one without the alt bracket. It's all pretty well documented in the pirate 4x4 link that I posted in the thread you linked to above.

(Right as viewed from the driver seat)

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Thanks - I guess I need to read that pirate thread a little more closely. I got the impression from that thread that you would need a heat riser, and that the walker pipe only worked with the 2" rams horns and not the 2.5's...

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Ok, I think I figured out where I'm confused, that Dorman Ram's horn is a 2" outlet, and not a 2.5" - doesn't specify in many places but I'm guessing that's where I'm all screwed up. So the part number listed above (674-501) is actually a RIGHT side manifold and is 2." If I run 2 of these, they will mate up to the Y-pipe without the need for a heat riser or spacer, correct?

I've also been reading a lot of mixed messages about whether or not I want to run any manifold gaskets...

Picture's getting murkier by the minute!