ARP Full Float Axle Studs (1 Viewer)

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DanS HJ-45

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I'm thinking that putting some ARP studs in the Full Float Rear axle would be a good idea, just in case. I'll be replacing the studs either way (with new Toyota, or ARP).

I'm looking at this setup:
http://redlinelandcruisers.com/prod...a-aisin-hubs-fj404555606270804-runner-pickup/

The ONLY concern I have with this for the FF axle is the length of the studs. Are they significantly longer than the Toyota studs? Since the FF hub already sticks out pretty far from the center of the wheel, I'd be worried about extending the length of the studs much, in case they invite too many rocks to hit them.

Am I off base here? I put this in the "hardcore" section because I figured you guys might know more about these than I do, and while I don't do "hardcore" wheeling, I definitely worry about bouncing along and coming back down on the rear axle under load and shearing the studs, and I'm going to replace the studs either way. I'm not worried about the front axle really, it's more a worry for the rear axle when I'm in 2WD and driving up the road to my property (it's steep, rocky, and bumpy--and I'd worry that someday I might be hauling a very heavy load and could damage the studs).

Thoughts? Pictures?

Dan
 
those are for your front hubs.
I bought some and they are longer for sure.
You can get some other ARPS for your rear without the nice fancy bit to insert em.
 
IMG_20140422_010525.jpg
Drop-shipped from Front Range Off Road when I ordered them along with Poly Performance FF shafts. I haven't installed them or compared them to the stock studs yet.
 
I had those ARP studs from Front Range Off Road in my FJ60, and then FZJ80, FF rear axles. They worked just fine.

The studs for front axle hubs and for rear FF hubs are the same.
 
IMG_20140422_134707.jpg
Another shot showing the ARP stud next to a stock one from a rear 60 FF axle. The nut on the stock stud is even with the end.
 
Another shot showing the ARP stud next to a stock one from a rear 60 FF axle. The nut on the stock stud is even with the end.

Another difference is that the ARP nut is a mechanical-locking nut and is 13mm instead of the stock 12. In any case, it threads in and works just fine.
 
Another difference is that the ARP nut is a mechanical-locking nut and is 13mm instead of the stock 12. In any case, it threads in and works just fine.

Does that mean I should delete the lock washer when I install them?
 
Does that mean I should delete the lock washer when I install them?

I did not delete the lock washer, although you probably could. I wouldn't, just because there is extra length for the washer :meh:
 
I sheared the stock ones on the short axle side three times...
Maybe less axial flex in the shorter inner axle.
A pita, kept a spare hub with me on tough trails, when i knew there would be locker action.
After i got arp's from davez i had no more issues.
I probably would not worry about the oem ones if studs and the shear studs are ok and you're not running a locker.
 
I had problems with the rear studs too, so I did the ARP studs and went to the oversized dowels. I am not running the flange style shafts like stock or what is sold thru polyperf. I am using the HD 4340 flange for 80 series fronts. I have double splined shafts from longfield.
 
Could one use class 10.9 (metric equivalent to grade 8) bolts instead of studs?
 
I had problems with the rear studs too, so I did the ARP studs and went to the oversized dowels. I am not running the flange style shafts like stock or what is sold thru polyperf. I am using the HD 4340 flange for 80 series fronts. I have double splined shafts from longfield.

so you are running external c-clips ? with cap ..
 
Thanks for the links, I now know what I'm doing with my new 80 axle. :)
 

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