Are pigs cold natured? (1 Viewer)

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Sadly I had to leave the 69 PIG outside last night due to son working on his truck in my shop.

I hardly slept thinking how it wasn’t right to leave her outside. Well then in the cold this evening and charger on battery for several hours (after failed starting attempt) she wouldn’t start.

Who knows how far off the original carb is coming from South of Bend Oregon to 6800’. Battery on charger and gonna give her try tomorrow but it gonna snow tomorrow and I’ve got to work.

These F engines normally little finicky in the cold?

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These F engines normally little finicky in the cold?
They can be.
Mine starts much better in warmer climes but starts readily when cold, just takes a few more cranks when cold.
If you find the correct combination of controls (when cold mine likes full choke. 3 pumps of the gas pedal then a slow push of the gas pedal while cranking) it should start right up.
Mine sits outside every night..

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These F engines normally little finicky in the cold?

It’s a carbureted engine, not fuel injected. Full choke and don’t flood it. This is assuming you don’t have water in the line or carb that froze overnight. If that happens.. we’ll, get rid of the water. (Damn ethanol “enhanced” fuel…)

The f.5 in my 1974 will start on the 3rd or 4th cylinder “up” if it’s been run in the past three or four days.
 
Ain't my first carb engine and is actually one of four I own and run on semi regular basis so well aware of difference in fuel injection and the carb. This one just little more finicky than the others. Agree she enjoys being in the warm shop and starts after short cranking but not so in the cold. I will get her going one way or another.

Appreciate the help, Sniper set up sounding pretty good even though her days in the winter are numbered.
 
Carburetors have an internal “hourglass” (Venturi) shape. Even in not-so-cold weather (around 50F), there is a tendency for the carburetor to sufficiently cool the air as it passes rapidly through the narrow passage of this shape, that any condensation that may be present freezes. As the ambient temperature drops, the freezing condensation problem can get worse.

In addition, cold air is “denser” than warm air, which means even a properly tuned carburetor may struggle with a too-lean mixture on a cold morning since it pulls in the same volume of air, but more mass, increasing the air-to-fuel ratio. You said your carb was tuned for “south of Bend (3600’). Three Rivers is 4100’ and you said that the truck is sitting at 6800’ altitude. The increased altitude means less “dense” air, which is the opposite effect of the cold, but you also get less compression, so less power from any successful ignition.

Also, when cold, the fuel coming out of the jets doesn’t vaporize as well, which leads to a (probably too lean) mixture that would be difficult to ignite even if the mixture is within range, because the the drops are huge compared to warmer fuel. This is another place where FI helps (fuel injectors atomize gasoline very well.)

Any vacuum leak will also make the problem worse.
 
Finicky? Uh, yeah. Being from AZ, I always wondered how the rest of the country fared during the winter when I had to start mine in the winter. Actual startup was usually not a problem, it was keeping it running until it warmed up enough to drive that was the issue. And even once it warmed up enough, once you started going down the road it had an obnoxiously sputtery dip in the power curve. I summed it up to too big of carb, too cold of intake runners, and too low compression (~7.5:1). Of course mine was not stock either. With a stock engine with a properly sized and tuned carb, with either the stock exhaust manifold or a coolant heater plate setup on the intake if running a header, the cold climate running issues should be minimized.
 
Never really had an issue 🥶☃️. My Fj40 0n da other hand ran Cool 😎 in the Summer but after a 2 hour drive would Spit out anti freeze when i parked it!!! That was with no T stat.
 

Are pigs cold natured?​

  • Provide wind breaks and shelter from drafts.When providing shelter, be sure that your wind breaks do not allow air to draft around the space at pig level.
  • Insulate the pig area. This can take on a variety of forms, from bedding to insulated walls and ceilings. The idea is capture as much of the pigs' heat as possible, while still allowing air exchange. More information on winter swine housing can be found in the Winter Housing for Swine Welfare article found on Penn State Extension's website.




Link to more info, Cold Temperature Management for Pigs - https://extension.psu.edu/cold-temperature-management-for-pigs
 
It's a Land Cruiser....so it's tough. A little starting fluid in the carb always wakes an old carbureted engine up in the cold. I actually keep a can of starting fluid handy for these old machines.
 
It's a Land Cruiser....so it's tough. A little starting fluid in the carb always wakes an old carbureted engine up in the cold. I actually keep a can of starting fluid handy for these old machines.
Yep, tried that and she cranked for a second but battery went tits up pretty quickly so I buttoned her up and went inside. Had to work today but battery on charger inside the heated shop so hopefully better luck tomorrow.
 
It's not rocket surgery. Big batteries, small spark plug gaps, a dedicated starter grounding strap and minimum timing advance help carbureted engines start in the cold. Also, is your carb pre heat system intact?

Also, some kind of pre heat system is key.

My pig never had a problem starting in the cold.
 
10-20 inches snow and up to 70 mph winds today until tomorrow morning. I think the Pig will sadly sit outside unless my 19 year old son home from college gets up before noon (extremely unlikely.
 
Some kind of block heater would make even the most stubborn engine easy to start in cold weather. I used to own a Russian Ural sidecar motorcycle whose owner's manual instructed the owner to remove the oil at night, keep it indoors and/or heat it and then add it prior to starting in the morning during extreme cold weather.

I used to keep a magnetic block heater plugged in on mine when I lived in Iowa. I've also used a coolant recirculating heater on other vehicles during cold times.
 
Well she wasn't suppose to be in my possession still but body shop in GJ running behind so as of Tuesday I am trailering her to her home for next 3-4 months. She also had a warm cozy home in the heated shop till my son came home and stole my shop to work on his truck.

I'm sure there are several things causing it and I am gonna check her out when it's not blowing snow. This is my first F engine after owning several 2F's. Agree with everyone as I have never had any issues with my previous 2F's but they were also driven frequently.

With 2 diesel trucks and the tractor I have power cords running everywhere for block heaters. Ironically the best starting Diesel I have when its cold and not plugged in is the the BJ45 and its 3B. Sounds like s*** for few seconds but she is reliable!

The transplant 2F sitting in shop ready to go along with her new H55. This stubbornness will be a thing of the past soon enough!!
 

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