ARB bullbar/Warn M12 install issue (1 Viewer)

[digitalmarker]

Hey all, I am in the process of installing the ARB bullbar and the Warn M12 winch on my 96 LC. I have read multiple threads that these two products are designed to work together seamlessly, part of the reason I bought these.

The Warn winch came with a fairlead that has pins and retaining clips through the rollers. The ARB bumper came with two long bolts that look like they are meant to go through the top of the bumper mount, through the rollers, and bottom of the fairlead frame. From my research, most ARB/Warn M12 combinations I have seen on this site are installed with these bolts. Parts are pictured here for reference:

The issue I am having is that the fairlead frame makes contact with the ARB bumper mount "ears", making it impossible to get the bolt through. Some photos to illustrate the issue:

This is what happens when I try to force the fairlead frame into the mounting area - I cannot get the back of the fairlead frame to sit flush against the bumper:

And this is what happens when I position the fairlead frame flat against the bumper - you can see where the frame makes contact/doesn't clear the mounting "ears":

I have seen a handful installs of Warn winches/ARB bumpers that do not use the vertical bolts, and mount the fairlead frame with only 2 bolts that go through the fairlead frame -> bumper -> into the bottom winch feet.

Has anyone faced this issue and how did you resolve it? What is the proper way to install - are the long vertical bolts required, or are the two horizontal bolts that go through the fairlead -> bumper -> winch feet sufficient?

TIA

 

[Roketdriver]

I also ran into this issue and wound up using my bench grinder to remove material from the fairlead until it was able to tuck inside the ears.

Hope this helps, let me know if you need any other photos

Edit: I just realized you're using the M series of Warn Winch and I have the VR Evo, it looks like the fairleads are slightly different so take my advice with a grain of salt.

 

[Marco Lau]

Just go synthetic rope and an offset hawse fairlead. i wished i have gone this route when i installed mine...

 

[digitalmarker]

I also ran into this issue and wound up using my bench grinder to remove material from the fairlead until it was able to tuck inside the ears.

View attachment 2872342

View attachment 2872343
Hope this helps, let me know if you need any other photos

View attachment 2872347

Thank you for responding. That is also the only fix I could think of.

Do your rollers make contact with the bumper mount "ears"? Looks awfully close.

Another question is it looks like you're using the bottom holes of the fairlead frame to mount it. My fairlead had this notice attached to it. Any idea why they would specify to install into the upper hole instead of the bottom? It looks like you're using it without a problem.

Lastly, how long ago did you buy your winch/bumper?

 

[Roketdriver]

Thank you for responding. That is also the only fix I could think of.

Do your rollers make contact with the bumper mount "ears"? Looks awfully close.

Another question is it looks like you're using the bottom holes of the fairlead frame to mount it. My fairlead had this notice attached to it. Any idea why they would specify to install into the upper hole instead of the bottom? It looks like you're using it without a problem.

Lastly, how long ago did you buy your winch/bumper?


View attachment 2872367

The rollers do rub a bit. They can spin, but not freely. I don't see it being an issue unless I start doing lots and lots of side pulls? Perhaps someone with more experience can chime in on this one.

My winch did not include that warning, not sure why they would make that note. My best guess is that it's related to the line alignment? I might have to go back through my instructions/manuals to see if I missed that.

Overall I was kind of baffled throughout the whole install.

I picked mine up in May, 2021

 

[digitalmarker]

The rollers do rub a bit. They can spin, but not freely. I don't see it being an issue unless I start doing lots and lots of side pulls? Perhaps someone with more experience can chime in on this one.

My winch did not include that warning, not sure why they would make that note. My best guess is that it's related to the line alignment? I might have to go back through my instructions/manuals to see if I missed that.

Overall I was kind of baffled throughout the whole install.

I picked mine up in May, 2021

Yeah that’s around the time I got mine too. The bumper and the winch. Baffling how complicated this is considering the bumper was designed for the M12 according to ARB.

 

[Broski]

Just go synthetic rope and an offset hawse fairlead. i wished i have gone this route when i installed mine...

This ^^^^

 

[digitalmarker]

Here's an update. Apparently Warn changed the design of their fairlead somewhat recently, which made it incompatible with the ARB bumper. So much for "plug and play". According to Warn, the correct fairlead is P/N 89214, which is the older style they used to ship.

Finally got a competent ARB support tech on the line, and he has an email out to their Australia tech since they apparently encountered this issue before.

@Roketdriver this is probably why you and I are in the same boat since we bought the parts around the same time.

Will keep this thread updated on the resolution when I hear back.

 

[jht3]

i have the same problem. Recent ARB bumper (within 2 years I'd guess) and old Warn XD9000i winch. pretty sure the fairlead is a newer Warn unit as it is stamped "12K" and has a warning sticker w/ a Warn part number. it has a black frame with two mounting holes and silver rollers.

i can only get the roller fairlead to bolt up using the center holes, not the offset holes. so the synthetic rope rubs on the bumper opening behind the fairlead. i feel if i grind on the fairlead or bumper, the rollers will potentially bind up on the bumper frame. i was hoping to stick w/ a roller fairlead for the looks, as i don't think a hawse is the right look for the ARB bumper.

a year ago i gave away an old never used warn fairlead (all silver) i bet would have worked. grrrr

 

[jonheld]

i can only get the roller fairlead to bolt up using the center holes, not the offset holes. so the synthetic rope rubs on the bumper opening behind the fairlead. i feel if i grind on the fairlead or bumper, the rollers will potentially bind up on the bumper frame. i was hoping to stick w/ a roller fairlead for the looks, as i don't think a hawse is the right look for the ARB bumper.

a year ago i gave away an old never used warn fairlead (all silver) i bet would have worked. grrrr

I believe the correct Warn roller fairlead for an ARB/M12K combination is part number 5742. It required drilling 2 holes in the base of the fairlead to mate correctly with the holes in the ARB.
That said, since switching to synthetic winch line, I switched to a hawse style fairlead.

 

[alia176]

I've had this ARB bumper + winch with steel cable since 2003, and I think the M10,000 winch was bought in1999. So, this pic is NA to the OP but thought I'd post it up in case it helps others.

As stated already, new holes had to be drilled into the fairlead and long bolts replaced the fairlead pins. The four bolt heads going in the horizontal direction are used to mount the winch to the front of the bumper.

 

[jonheld]

I've had this ARB bumper + winch with steel cable since 2003, and I think the M10,000 winch was bought in1999. So, this pic is NA to the OP but thought I'd post it up in case it helps others.

The footprint of the M10K and M12K is the same. The ARB bar was originally designed around the M10K, but the M10K was replaced by the M12K. Both are direct bolt in winches.

 

[digitalmarker]

i have the same problem. Recent ARB bumper (within 2 years I'd guess) and old Warn XD9000i winch. pretty sure the fairlead is a newer Warn unit as it is stamped "12K" and has a warning sticker w/ a Warn part number. it has a black frame with two mounting holes and silver rollers.

i can only get the roller fairlead to bolt up using the center holes, not the offset holes. so the synthetic rope rubs on the bumper opening behind the fairlead. i feel if i grind on the fairlead or bumper, the rollers will potentially bind up on the bumper frame. i was hoping to stick w/ a roller fairlead for the looks, as i don't think a hawse is the right look for the ARB bumper.

a year ago i gave away an old never used warn fairlead (all silver) i bet would have worked. grrrr

I have the all silver fairlead and it does not fit either.

 

[jht3]

I have the all silver fairlead and it does not fit either.

well dang. mine came w/ a M8000 in ~2005. never fit it to an ARB bumper of any type, so who knows.

this sure is frustrating.

 

[digitalmarker]

well dang. mine came w/ a M8000 in ~2005. never fit it to an ARB bumper of any type, so who knows.

this sure is frustrating.

Agreed. So much for “the bullbar was designed around the m12”.

According to warn they changed the fairlead that ships with the m12 and didn’t inform ARB.

They gave me a different part number (I posted it a few replies above). Have one on order, will update the thread once I have it.

 

[jht3]

Agreed. So much for “the bullbar was designed around the m12”.

According to warn they changed the fairlead that ships with the m12 and didn’t inform ARB.

They gave me a different part number (I posted it a few replies above). Have one on order, will update the thread once I have it.

definitely keep this updated when you get the other fairlead

 

[LINUS]

I had steel rope & went synth - but if you hog out the holes on the fairlead frame, you only rust it when you finally go synth.

Just don’t oversize the holes the rollers rub on tension/using the rollers.

 

[jonheld]

So much for “the bullbar was designed around the m12”.

There are literally thousands of 80 Series with ARB bars running M10K/M12K winches. If Warn changed out the fairlead, that's on them, not ARB.
My M12K bolted right up with the supplied roller fairlead.
And, frankly, it would take less time and effort to simply grind a few mm off the top ears of the fairlead and be done.

 

[Godwin]

Just went through this yesterday with the installation of a new ARB plus a used 10k Warn winch of unknown age. Roller fairlead slid under the ARB winch lip without issue, just had to drill two additional holes in the ARB to attach the lower feet of the winch. Overall rather straightforward.

 

[LINUS]

Paging @TYM4FUN -

I called him out as I thought he was missing the nuts most of us have, I just remembered this & he had / runs the c-clips rods.

-He might remember if he had any hiccups - I’d had zero issue w/ the old style nut/bolt when I was wire rope.

— I cut off all the roller fairlead bracket from the ARB (cut the welds, it’s just tag-welded on top & uses a tab/slot to locate) when I went w/ a offset Hawse lead /synth rope.

I reallly wanted the flush front / even did a F55 lay-flat link.
—No more bruises in the quads now