Anyone recognize this not transfer case sound (FJ62)?

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Ok ToyataMatt, here we go:

Narrating a bit, it seems like it 100 percent is related to the fan, but on the second clip, the fan stops well before the noise. What do you think?

That’s the fan clutch and or water pump for sure. I but the clutch is failing along with the pump. Have you checked your coolant lately? Do you know the history of the water pump?

ToyotaMatt for the win again!
 

ToyotaMatt

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Ok ToyataMatt, here we go:

Narrating a bit, it seems like it 100 percent is related to the fan, but on the second clip, the fan stops well before the noise. What do you think? Also the "noise stop - CLICK" WHAT DOES IT MEAN!



BAD FAN CLUTCH 100%

check water pump too , they go hand in hand

all new drive belts are needed at this time too


bare
minimum ............
 
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BAD FAN CLUTCH 100%

check water pump too , they go hand in hand

all new drive belts are needed at this time too


bare
minimum ............
I think I need to call Iron Pig... This work is less than 2 months old, and this noise has been going on since I got it back.

1633109162891.png
 

ToyotaMatt

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I have NO affiliation with iron pig

My only efforts were to help and assist another member and fellow mud buddy in need ….

FYI

Those are the facts above as I see them 💯 % solid
 
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I have NO affiliation with iron pig

My only efforts were to help and assist another member and fellow mud buddy in need ….

FYI

Those are the facts above as I see them 💯 % solid
No I know, just disappointed, other repairs done, and these two failed within a month of getting replaced.
 

ToyotaMatt

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One suggestion

Don’t assume anything in the land cruiser world untill all FSM facts are on the table ….

This could be missing or loose bolts too by a chance

Many possible. Scenarios

Or you threw a drive Belt ?


See diagram above

Only 1 single water pump drive belt ?


Focus on all that tech above

And listen to iron pig

Then the final facts will be known 💯 %

It’s either broke or loose in some unknown still way that we do know


I saw so many sceninios at the dealership level. Your head would spin Clean off !
 
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Come on guys. There were multiple times in that clip where the fan stopped and the noise was continuing. There were times in the video where the noise stopped but the fan was still spinning.

As far as I could see, in every clip the sound continued until the ECM turned off the Main EFI relay (that's the delayed click after the engine shuts down). That suggests to me the noise is coming from something on the EFI system. My bet is either there's a vacuum leak (or some kind of issue involving a VSV), or the Idle Air Control motor is starting to seize up. One of the last things the ECM does before turning off the EFI main relay is set the Idle Air Valve back to a starting position.

When it starts making the noise, simply unplug the IAC and see if the noise stops. Then try unplugging the VSVs on the right hand side one at a time.
 
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Come on guys. There were multiple times in that clip where the fan stopped and the noise was continuing. There were times in the video where the noise stopped but the fan was still spinning.

As far as I could see, in every clip the sound continued until the ECM turned off the Main EFI relay (that's the delayed click after the engine shuts down). That suggests to me the noise is coming from something on the EFI system. My bet is either there's a vacuum leak (or some kind of issue involving a VSV), or the Idle Air Control motor is starting to seize up. One of the last things the ECM does before turning off the EFI main relay is set the Idle Air Valve back to a starting position.

When it starts making the noise, simply unplug the IAC and see what happens. I bet the noise stops.
Ill try it!
 
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Bolts and belts look good. IAC and VSV's check out too. I'd love to be able to eliminate the pump/fan, truck does cool good/stays cool, not sure if that helps.

The noise really sounds close to the right side, closer to the starter area. Hard to pin point obviously (sound bouncing around) but its most audible under the truck looking toward the oil cooler.

It clearly stops right before that EFI main relay click though, I know correlation doesn't equal causation, but that's the one constant in this situation (Squeak-squeak-stop immediate click). Are there any pumps or components that spool down with that EFI main relay click in that area?
 
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Man I hope you're right. This is good becuase it makes sense, I don't have the knowledge on how some of these parts work, like now that I know a lot of these parts aren't even moving when this sound is occurring it actually makes me feel a bit better. It does have a "tea-kettle" quality almost. Its 100 percent near the transfer/trans case though, so that gives me starting spot.

Slightly related, is there supposed to be something here?
View attachment 2780481
There is supposed to be a small cover plate over that opening. I think it is likely to there to prevent water intrusion.
 
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Bolts and belts look good. IAC and VSV's check out too. I'd love to be able to eliminate the pump/fan, truck does cool good/stays cool, not sure if that helps.

The noise really sounds close to the right side, closer to the starter area. Hard to pin point obviously (sound bouncing around) but its most audible under the truck looking toward the oil cooler.

It clearly stops right before that EFI main relay click though, I know correlation doesn't equal causation, but that's the one constant in this situation (Squeak-squeak-stop immediate click). Are there any pumps or components that spool down with that EFI main relay click in that area?
When you say the IAC and VSVs check out, do you mean you unplugged them with the engine running and the noise continued?

The only pump is the fuel pump, but it will stop as soon as the engine stops (it is turned on by the air flow meter). The only other actuators besides the VSV and IAC are the fuel injectors.

Another test could be to simply unplug the Main EFI relay while the engine is running. It is located on the passenger side fender, near ignition coil and washer bottle. It has a little pig-tail. Unplugging the pig tail should immediately kill the power to the EFI system. If the noise stops instantly with that, then we can probably assume the noise is related to the EFI system in some way.

Another test: Goose the throttle (like quickly smash the gas pedal to the floor to rev the engine, just don't over-rev it), and see if the noise changes. That might help narrow it down if its a vacuum-related noise.
 
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Ok Everybody @cruisermatt @ToyotaMatt , did some more testing today, nice warm day for it, so it got hot enough quick enough without a long drive.

Ruled out EFI, I can shut the car off rolling down a hill and hear it.

Tightened fan clutch bolts, they were already tight I believe.

Made another video, just for a better sense of where its heard, and what its like, there is a walk around part as well:

 
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ToyotaMatt

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Ok Everybody @cruisermatt @ToyotaMatt , did some more testing today, nice warm day for it, so it got hot enough quick enough w
-ithout a long drive.
Ruled out EFI, I can shut the car off rolling down a hill and hear it.

Tightened fan clutch bolts, they were already tight I believe.

Made another video, just for a better sense of where its heard, and what its like, there is a walk around part as well:



OK

i now see the transfer case has clear recent work done ?

it would be very helpful to outline 100% of what was done

your 3rd tech video , is the SOLID FSM by the book info we need to confirm and verify , here

@cruisermatt specializes in the FJ60 and FJ62 power train and chassis topic , its his top tech strength in my opinion ....


i am going to Let
Cruiser matt's OFF Road in Florida chime in as his tech knowledge far out weighs mine on t-cases split type and your A440F / A440L Series FJ62








- so however lookie lookie what i posses : :)

- Every Simply Trans and t-case / rear axle and front axle gear box FSM ,


- these are ALL at your disposal till we smoke this rascal's BY the BOOK FSM style ...........


-


let go to step #2 conform and verify :

Power Train and Chassis , and please start by stating ALL the tecnical facts surrounding the VERY recent Split transferase Repair and JOB scopes ?

any ATM stand alone repair Job scopea as well

this is needed first so NOBODY can simply speculate here , and ONLY Concrete FSM book step by step is used in a methodical FACTORY FOCUS POINT MIND SET APPROACH

that does NOT cost you another DIME till we factually know what's what about that here




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Joined
Jul 18, 2014
Messages
181
-ithout a long drive.



OK

i now see the transfer case has clear recent work done ?

it would be very helpful to outline 100% of what was done

your 3rd tech video , is the SOLID FSM by the book info we need to confirm and verify , here

@cruisermatt specializes in the FJ60 and FJ62 power train and chassis topic , its his top tech strength in my opinion ....


i am going to Let @cruisermatt chime in as his tech knowledge far out weighs mine on t-cases split type and your A440F / A440L Series FJ62


- so however lookie lookie what i posses :

- Every Simply Trans and t-case / rear axle and front axle gear box FSM ,

- these are ALL at your disposal till we smoke this rascal's BY the BOOK FSM style ...........


-


let go to step #2 conform and verify :

Power Train and Chassis , and please start by stating ALL the tecnical facts surrounding the VERY recent Split transferase Repair and JOB scopes ?

any ATM stand alone repair Job scopea as well

this is needed first so NOBODY can simply speculate here , and ONLY Concrete FSM book step by step is used in a methodical FACTORY FOCUS POINT MIND SET APPROACH

that does NOT cost you another DIME till we factually know what's what about that here
Thanks Matt, just to quickyl clarify, No tcase work since I've owned it, 3 years now, not sure of the history, but never had any issues while I owned it, only after pickup.
 

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