For Sale Another Price drop and update -1966 Proffitts Stage 3 resto, Cummins 4BT H55F, ARB - Sale or trade

[Paul]

Interested in your 40.
Spoke Jeremiah Proffitt this morning, looking for a 40 to build, recently sold my crawler he built for me in 2007.
He told me about this 40.
Please contact me at 406-459-0140.
Thanks.

 

[navydivedoc]

Hi Paul,

This is a nice truck, but has a few issues as I've described. Having built an LS converted jeep LJ, I know what goes into these. I don't want to speak poorly of Proffitt's on a public forum, but there are some things here that I wouldn't tolerate in a high end build. The hood was painted directly on bare metal. The fitment of the drivers door is poor, but perhaps that was damaged after the build. Butt connectors on the wiring, and the dual battery setup isn't particularly clean. It's all functional, and would clean up easily. Mechanically it seems excellent. I estimate it would be around $4k or so to fix it up here, hence the price drop from 46k to 42k last night. I can't put this on BAT in its current state, but that's the plan if I hang onto it. Do what it needs, I can't in good conscience misrepresent something.

Jeremiah told me it's a 60k truck, and to replicate it would be 120k for him to do it today. I think this could be purchased, shipped and completely sorted for 50k max, so it's a good value for what it is.

Happy to talk.
Steve

 

[YoYoHo]

I know what goes into these. I don't want to speak poorly of Proffitt's on a public forum, but there are some things here that I wouldn't tolerate in a high end build. The hood was painted directly on bare metal. The fitment of the drivers door is poor, but perhaps that was damaged after the build. Butt connectors on the wiring, and the dual battery setup isn't particularly clean. It's all functional, and would clean up easily.

If you watch Proffit's YouTube Series you will see he still sucks badly at electrical work and when he details what they do he is oblivious to how to do it correctly. I see that on a lot of builds done by others shops.

My point ,however, is not to have a go at Proffit's I think they are on par with most places my point is that a BIG THUMBS up on you recognizing and detailing the issues as opposed to trying to hide them. I think that add's more value to the sale than the detriments of having the issues.

It is a refreshing change to see someone selling what would be a considered a high end build and acknowledging it is not perfect and any buyer should not buy it expecting to be so.

If I wasn't half way into several builds I would buy it as no way in hell could I build it for what you are listing it at and I could be driving by the weekend hmmmmm

GLWS and Congrats on being a stand up guy with your description.

Oh and Jeremiah if your happen to be looking up from your Kanban board and happen to read this PLEASE review how you are doing wiring and have a look at getting a qualified guy onto your team to help you out. Failing that HP Academy (Wiring Fundamentals) has some very informative training courses which could help you out a lot in getting your builds to the next level, apart from that your YouTube stuff is a great watch. Not as funny as Project Wrong way but entertaining non the less.

 

[navydivedoc]

If you watch Proffit's YouTube Series you will see he still sucks badly at electrical work and when he details what they do he is oblivious to how to do it correctly. I see that on a lot of builds done by others shops.

My point ,however, is not to have a go at Proffit's I think they are on par with most places my point is that a BIG THUMBS up on you recognizing and detailing the issues as opposed to trying to hide them. I think that add's more value to the sale than the detriments of having the issues.

It is a refreshing change to see someone selling what would be a considered a high end build and acknowledging it is not perfect and any buyer should not buy it expecting to be so.

If I wasn't half way into several builds I would buy it as no way in hell could I build it for what you are listing it at and I could be driving by the weekend hmmmmm

GLWS and Congrats on being a stand up guy with your description.

Oh and Jeremiah if your happen to be looking up from your Kanban board and happen to read this PLEASE review how you are doing wiring and have a look at getting a qualified guy onto your team to help you out. Failing that HP Academy (Wiring Fundamentals) has some very informative training courses which could help you out a lot in getting your builds to the next level, apart from that your YouTube stuff is a great watch. Not as funny as Project Wrong way but entertaining non the less.

Thanks Yo. I actually thought I was responding via PM, and not on this post, but the statements are true and not really trying to lay blame or publicly call out a builder. I'll leave it up. I've offered it back to Proffitt's directly, and he pointed Paul in my direction. As I said, there is nothing dangerous or wrong about the wiring, just not how I would do it in the high end market. Thanks for the kind words. I don't have it in me to misrepresent something or have there be any surprises. I've been burned before, but will never be an intentional burner. Life is too short, and it's a really small world...especially in a niche like Mud and these old FJs.

 

[FJCowboy]

@navydivedoc Quick question regarding the attached photo. Below the rear tub, is that storage or fuel tank? Any details on it either way? Both are of interest to me. Thanks

 

[navydivedoc]

Fuel tank. Not sure on details, but the original 1966 under seat tank is not present.

 

[FJCowboy]

Fuel tank. Not sure on details, but the original 1966 under seat tank is not present.

Ok, I've got a '69 and thinking a fuel tank is my future. I've done some moderate searching and it appears most replacements are the 70s and newer. Not much for auxiliary tanks for the older rigs. Some have suggested having one custom made. Thanks for the quick response.

 

[navydivedoc]

Ok, I've got a '69 and thinking a fuel tank is my future. I've done some moderate searching and it appears most replacements are the 70s and newer. Not much for auxiliary tanks for the older rigs. Some have suggested having one custom made. Thanks for the quick response.

CCOT has replacement tanks for 68 and up. I've been looking at options for my 67 patina rig.

 

[FJCowboy]

CCOT has replacement tanks for 68 and up. I've been looking at options for my 67 patina rig.

I was looking for a larger auxilarry tank to mount under the rear tub versus the replacement of the original. Looking for a little bit more than 12 gallons.

 

[navydivedoc]

It's hard to believe what a difference taking 200 lbs off the roof can make. It looks infinitely better, but even more it is now a reasonable driver. It's still tall, but it doesn't rock and lean in corners like it did with the ridiculous rack up there. I've never been a fan of things on the roof if there is any other way, and this sure solidifies that belief. It's a whole new animal, and I like it a lot more than I did this morning.

I thought I would put up some more pics of the electrical since I've gotten a few PMs. I may have made it seem worse than it is. I am finicky in this area. I would have created a separate mounting plate for wires that are on the battery terminals, vs these that are wired directly.

Here are a couple of crimp fasteners for the overhead light in the cab.

As before, there is nothing unsafe or inherently wrong. In my opinion, a repower should look and function as close to OEM as possible.

In other news, looking around underneath and at the switches, there is a front ARB but a rear autolocker of some variant.

Bottom line, this truck keeps getting better. MUCH improved without the roof rack. It will not return.

 

[Will Van]

It looks so much better without the rack!

Get the wheels and tires on! Haha!

I see what you mean about wiring - Not “bad” but not impressive either.

 

[Whiskerz]

I know this is not a tech discussion. The wiring. A few things. Crimp is better than solder in many applications were vibrations are involved. Heat shrink tubing or heat shrink connectors will help your wiring last for years. That wire going through the steel panel with no protection is a failure waiting to happen. Also buy some wire colors. You can get many many options yet you see a lot with 2 or 3 colors from the parts store. Carroll Smith has some books about racecar building which cover wiring.

 

[navydivedoc]

New tires on today. I wondered if the narrower wheels (7 vs 10), narrower tires (255 vs 12.5 inch) and narrower track due to wheel offset would make the truck feel narrower and more off balance. Definitely not, and these tires are more confidence inspiring than the balloon 12.5s. I continue to like this more and more. I think it looks more in proportion now, but then I've always liked skinnies.

Before

Took a few glamour shots on the rock beach near my house. Still need to clean the truck up and break out the real camera.

@Will Van here you go. Easy change to Freeborn Red, 3 panels need paint anyway!

 

[Will Van]

New tires on today. I wondered if the narrower wheels (7 vs 10), narrower tires (255 vs 12.5 inch) and narrower track due to wheel offset would make the truck feel narrower and more off balance. Definitely not, and these tires are more confidence inspiring than the balloon 12.5s. I continue to like this more and more. I think it looks more in proportion now, but then I've always liked skinnies.

Before

Took a few glamour shots on the rock beach near my house. Still need to clean the truck up and break out the real camera.

@Will Van here you go. Easy change to Freeborn Red, 3 panels need paint anyway!

Looks awesome! Do want.

 

[Will Van]

I edited your photos to showcase the new wheels/tires.

 

[navydivedoc]

I edited your photos to showcase the new wheels/tires.

Thanks! On vacation with only a crappy tablet and slow Internet...I'm lucky to just get them to load.

 

[navydivedoc]

200 miles of national park cruising over the past 10 days. Rides well, SOA really is a soft and capable offroad option. Leans a bit into a corner, but not frightening as it sits now.

The 4bt is what it is. Industrial, not subtle, but not intolerable. Quite smooth at idle. There's a resonant frequency around 2000 rpm that sets off the center console and the drivers upper door frame into a rattle. I'll need to track those down if I keep this truck.

In the end, it puts a smile on my face driving it around. Thumbs up and smiles from lots of people.

It's headed into shallow storage as of Saturday in my brother's shop, and he'll pick away at the electrical over the winter as it's slow boat season in Maine. For now, it's still for sale at $42k. Partial trades still considered, but I'm liking it more all the time. In the end, I may have to choose between this and my patina rig, as I need to draw the line at 1 FJ40. I've been on a 55 kick lately, need to leave some room in my life for fine swine.

 

[YoYoHo]

Needs hubcaps

 

[navydivedoc]

Needs hubcaps

Yes, I agree. But, @Racer65 are back ordered and the > $1000 difference for his wheels and a set of caps was hard to swallow on a +/- keeper truck. When we swap this truck for the Pig you built for me, I'm sure we can figure out the hubcap situation

 

[fireball]

All the cool kids are wearing hubcaps these days!