Aluminum FJ40s -- A Thread to Post Pictures of your Bodies and ask Questions. . . (1 Viewer)

apeterson

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One i just sold

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I want to only drill holes in the rer to mount ambi doors. The stock spare tire carrier will be gone ill go with a new rear bumper with a swing out built in. So whats the process to mount ambi door? Once the holes are drilled how do you reinforce them to accept a bolt?

Easiest would be to use a drill tap to make a threaded hole through the tub, and then add a fender washer and a nut behind.

Another option would be to use Nutcerts/Rivnuts.
 
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Easiest would be to use a drill tap to make a threaded hole through the tub, and then add a fender washer and a nut behind.

Another option would be to use Nutcerts/Rivnuts.
I thought about that but for the ambulance doors or even the soft top swing out doors I would personally want some room to move the hinges around a little to allow for door adjustment to get the gaps fine tuned. I drilled the holes a little on the big side so I can loosen the bolts and move the hinges around a little.
 
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Not whats everyone using for new floor mats in the aluminum bodies? I love the OEM style and would want to try and put something similar in. Id line the inside of the tub regardless
 
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If any of you have done the full tub and cowl I would like some dimensions and close up pics of the hinges at the A-pillar. I'd like to come up with a bracket that works with the cowl hinge area for the Quik Hinges.

Matthew
 

TractorDoc

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@vanisle3b42 @fjdiesel @apeterson -- Excellent work and Beautiful Trucks!

@Spenny I saw your post but no images. . . unless you used some sort of invisible paint!

I want to only drill holes in the rer to mount ambi doors. The stock spare tire carrier will be gone ill go with a new rear bumper with a swing out built in. So whats the process to mount ambi door? Once the holes are drilled how do you reinforce them to accept a bolt?

I know you are asking about rear doors only, but here is what I did for holes/bolts/etc. After measuring, test fitting, and measuring again I drilled holes for the tire carrier slightly smaller than the bolts and tapped them for my M6 hardware. Borrowed this picture from @78fj40mg to use as my initial template:

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Holes drilled and tapped:

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Once the carrier was mounted and bolts snugged up I did install a flat/lock washer and nut on the backside. While the aluminum is thick and it does appear an extra plate/layer is in place to mount the tire carrier I do not think Id trust it on threaded holes alone. My holes for the ambi doors were already drilled by the previous owner and I agree with @White Stripe a little bigger hole here allows for some door adjustment. My hinges are secured on the backside again with a flat washer, lock washer, and nut; as is most every other bolt that is accessible from the backside.

Certain areas had limited access to the backside and drilled/tapped holes are all that was used to secure less substantial items like the EVAP cover. A nutsert/rivnut would also work and probably provide more securing power as @bikersmurf suggested.

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Not whats everyone using for new floor mats in the aluminum bodies? I love the OEM style and would want to try and put something similar in. Id line the inside of the tub regardless

In lieu of floor mats I used bed liner on the floor only portion of my tub and left it black to give the visual of a separate piece.

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The rear mat could easily be made or sourced from vendors like cityracerllc.com . Some people have used the factory transmission cover and the factory (or @Racer65 's "new" factory) mat may work; but I have not gone that route so do not take my word for it.

The provided transmission cover has sharper corners and is a bit less pleasing to the eye vs. the factory part. I tired blending things together a bit more with a two tone paint job -- still not sure it was the best decision but I can live it now that everything else is bolted in the tub. If I could do it again (and I still might go back to do it) I would probably bed line the angled part of the cowl floor (under pedal area) so it is even with the black on the trans cover.

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Keep the pictures and content going. . . some great work happening out there!
 
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In terms of the tunnel, I was wondering about using a factory piece instead. Mine is in goodish shape, some rust. I have the cover in a different location than the body at the moment, so I cannot mock it up.

So far I’m happy with the aqualu body and I’d buy another. Hope that doesn’t change as I get further into the build.
 
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The factory tunnel can be made to work if you modify it. Took me a bit of work to do, but worth it. The aqualu tunnel and floor cutout is so small it would be tough to pull the Trans and tcase out for servicing. In fact, I have no idea how you would do it. With the factory tunnel made to fit I could make the cutout in the floor much bigger and it's pretty easy to pull the transmission now.
 

1phrogguy

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For those running a 2F, H41 and split case, here's my transfer clearance, Had to cut off a little of the tub but the tunnel covers it nicely. I'm working on the other area with my file and that'll be ground down when I change my rear main seal and have access. I don't have the factory tunnel, as @White Stripe says, it's tight like that...

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you'd be hard pressed to get that type running gear any higher due to shifter linkage clearances.
 
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Anyone have input on how the tub joins the cowl in this situation? My 82 isnt flat at the rocker as ive seen other. As seen in the pic. Or does the tub not wrap around that little angle?

The aqualu video I got with my tub talked about a few more steps with the late-model tubs, but the video was from 1996. Aqualu has really changed the tubs since. If u look on the websites gallery pics u can see some completed rigs with pics of that area. Late model 3/4 tub aqualu is more expensive since it's more complex and is about 4200.00 in us dollars. Since the late model factory tubs are made with such crappy steel, and your in Canada, saving up for a whole tub may be the way to go. Their is a very real possibility that with a 3/4 tub your cowl could still rather easily rust out. If in not to bad of shape now you could get some money for it in classifieds.
 
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Yes i agree with the cowl but that isnt in the budget that would be into the 8k range and not in the cards. My 42 will see next to no winter driving only on extreme cold days when salt and slush isnt an issue haha. Ill just fix rust up front if it ever pops up.
 
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Did anyone rework the trans cover that comes from Aqualu? It seems to me that it could be smaller/more refined and fit better?? If so, do you have any pics? Thanks
 

heckler

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ErikinSC

..and then he said.. 'Hey y'all! Watch this'
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Great job! Did you paint over black linex or was the linex color matched? I am asking becuase my tub has bedliner in it and I have been playing with the idea of having it painted over to match.

The LineX was color matched to my body color before it was applied. It cost @ an extra $100.

I’ve sprayed black paint on pickups with paint spilled on the LineX, and it worked fine. I don’t see why you couldn’t color match over what you have. Remove a seat and apply a small area to see.
 

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