Air rail plug pics

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They are not NPT. theyre not even MPT. Its a metric machine thread with the seal created by the tapered seat at the edge of the un-threaded tip. the toyota part is a stock FJ62(3FE) head plug since they drill all 6 ports, but the air rail only uses 4. so, every 3FE head has two in it...

I think that might be the the pic I took along time ago when I was building my FJ45...
 
Man I was surprised to see this thread brought back-to-life!
 
Installed my stock ones this week. Great fit and bottomed out like they should.

PO on a different motor used 1/4. They had some sort of sealant around them. They now leak like crazy. Few bucks more and they work right out of the bag.
 
All of the NPT plugs I have used did not leak a drop.. The interference fit seals them up nicely..

No silicone required.

Is it "correct" No..

Does it work?

Yes..
 
I agree with Mace...
 
The right fit

Toyota now wants $11 each for their plugs. I found 14mm x 1.5 socket plugs at Maryland Metrics for $1.20 each. The right thread, and the right fit.
 
since this thread was restarted anyways.. it's hard to tell.. those who bought the toyota plugs.. do they need any sort of sealant or just put them in?
 
Since this thread was once again resurrected , It has been over 3 years since I put the True Value plugs in and I have had no problem whatsoever with them. Don't blow your money on the Toyota plugs!
 
None of the plugs need any sealant. They are sealed by seating against the reduced shoulder at the bottom of the hole. Do not put sealant or loc-tite on them, because it will melt at 1500deg EGT and may allow things to come loose while climbing that long grade.

Put them in clean & dry, and hopefully they will rust into place quickly and become one w/ the head forever & ever, amen.
 
Toyota now wants $11 each for their plugs. I found 14mm x 1.5 socket plugs at Maryland Metrics for $1.20 each. The right thread, and the right fit.

I find that hard to believe. I'll check with my local dealer and see what he says.
 
Why ask?

I find that hard to believe. I'll check with my local dealer and see what he says.

Of course the dealer will tell you will need HIS parts. If you want to waste your time and money then go ahead. This forum is a great source of tried and true repairs / fixes and creative shortcuts. If you don't want to take advantage of it then so be it.
 
The square head plugs do not work reliably. Depending on casting variations, as the plug goes below the surface the open end wrench can no longer drive the square head, but the plug is not fully tightened, or down against the seat in the bottom of the hole.

They need to have a recessed allen drive to work 100% of the time in every head.
 
That probably is true. I have a square drive socket I made that fits the heads. I haven't found a reasonably priced countersunk plug....and I don't like the ones that are hollowed out. The square drive plugs that I mentioned are solid brass.
 
The square head plugs do not work reliably. Depending on casting variations, as the plug goes below the surface the open end wrench can no longer drive the square head, but the plug is not fully tightened, or down against the seat in the bottom of the hole.

They need to have a recessed allen drive to work 100% of the time in every head.

I ran into this exact problem on my 60. Tried a square drive socket. This also didn't work because the socket didn't have enough room to seat on the plug in the recess in the cylinder head. I put a cheapo 3/8 extension in the drill press and removed some material with the angle grinder. After that it fit well and i was able to torque them down properly. Not the right way to do it but they're in there and they don't leak. Kinda :hillbilly: i admit. :meh:
 
Someone had used a square headed version on mine when I went to re-install an air rail for emissions reasons. After much fussing, I finally fit a 12 point socket on them and they all came out fairly easily.

Just something else to try if you have the square-headed version!
 

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