Achilles heels of the 55 (ADVICE NEEDED)

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Joined
Feb 11, 2021
Threads
31
Messages
150
Location
Salida, CO
Website
www.overlandnomads.net
Greetings!

I was speaking with some knowledgeable 55 folks the other day about the weak points of the Pig. They explained that the 55 was Toyota's first attempt at a wagon and, therefore, inherently had some spots that needed improvement in subsequent iterations. I guess this is all pretty intuitive.

They identified the following:

1. The door hinge attachments...or more accurately, the sheet metal where the hinges are attached, is just that....sheet metal.....and is therefore prone to metal fatigue and eventual failure.

2. The door plate locking mechanism should be upgraded to the FJ60 style....something about the 55 has a wheel to capture the post vs. an arm to capture a bar (I was driving so the details are probably not accurate).

3. I know the tailgate glass motor and assembly can be finicky.


If you have insight on this topic, please advise. We would like to address (to the extent that we can) any problematic areas that MUD members can help us identify BEFORE we end up in the middle of nowhere with an issue......like doors falling off or flying open, etc.

Thanks in advance for your help!

Dan
 
If you look at @scrapdaddy build Slow 71 he did eccellent repairs on the 1st two things you mentioned and others have followed suit!! Tailgate motor a lot of us found bypassing the safety switch resolves being finicky, its the gear that is problematic cause of cracking. New gears can be bought at Shapeways. If i had an ounce of patience i would have looke up the posts for you. I dont. Sorry 🤔😉
 
Dan,

You'll spend three weeks trying to find something in my thread. Here's what I did because they were cracked on the door. I think the body side mounting is good. Not all of them crack, but it might be good insurance to beef up.

Grind it all down and weld up any cracks...
IMG_2132.JPG



Make a plate to fit...
IMG_2133.JPG



Weld it all up..
IMG_2134.JPG


And grind it smooth..
IMG_2135.JPG


Not a pro job, but has held up so far.
 
Dan,

Your build is somewhat different than most of ours being a world trip vehicle. That said, a lot of the guys here have learned what works and what doesn't. I hope you don't mind when we throw out some ideas or opinions ( we'll probably do it anyway :) ). Like Bob said get those gears and rebuild the motor. Personally, I'd throw away all the wagon's wiring and start over for a new beginning.

I've never heard of anyone upgrading to 60 door latches, but a couple guys have switched to "bear claw" type which seem to work good.

Something else I'd consider is a full float rear axle. She's going to be heavy and having a newer/stronger motor, snapping an axle might be a real concern.
 
Thanks for all the information, guidance and photos.

I have the Shapeways white plastic gear and will rebuild the assembly using it. Has anyone found the need to upgrade to the steel or aluminum? I'll probably rebuild 2 motors so I have a spare. Having an operational rear window is kinda important for our set-up.

I thought about a full float as well, but at the time we were sourcing the axels a FF was hard to find. I talked to Ruff Stuff and they were not producing their axel housings at that time.

I guess we will just have to wait 'n see on some stuff.

I really appreciate your feedback.
 
Something else I'd consider is a full float rear axle. She's going to be heavy and having a newer/stronger motor, snapping an axle might be a real concern.

My 60 is heavy and I went with a FF not because of snapping an axle but because I'd lost a semi-float rear bearing that only had ca. 50k miles on it. Replacing rear wheel bearings on a semi-float Cruiser axle is an all day job with pulling the differential, axle shafts, etc., plus the bearing often has to be ordered. Use the right FF axle and FR and RR wheel bearings and hub seals may be interchangable and available at many parts stores.
 
They explained that the 55 was Toyota's first attempt at a wagon and, therefore, inherently had some spots that needed improvement in subsequent iterations.
The 45LV was there before the Pig. A little different, being somewhat 40-based, but technically a wagon...
 
Dan,

You'll spend three weeks trying to find something in my thread. Here's what I did because they were cracked on the door. I think the body side mounting is good. Not all of them crack, but it might be good insurance to beef up.

Grind it all down and weld up any cracks...
View attachment 3134267


Make a plate to fit...
View attachment 3134270


Weld it all up..
View attachment 3134271

And grind it smooth..
View attachment 3134272

Not a pro job, but has held up so far.
I can think of worse ways to spend 3 weeks!!! Besides, it only took me 3 hours to find all your power steering good info.
 
Thanks for all the information, guidance and photos.

I have the Shapeways white plastic gear and will rebuild the assembly using it. Has anyone found the need to upgrade to the steel or aluminum? I'll probably rebuild 2 motors so I have a spare.
get a spare plastic gear. as stated above, if you use the steel gear, and have binding issues, the steel gear will transfer the problem, and possibly cause more damage.

A couple areas I keep forgetting are sore subjects to these pigs are their radiators, and windshields.

I don't have solutions for these; only offer them as further challenges.

Cheers!
 
Thanks for pointing out additional problem areas.

Speaking of steering.......does anyone have a recommendation for a crossover steering set up or a link to previous discussions?

Thanks for all your help.
 
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