Abandoned 84 FJ60 gets some love, and a 4bt!

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Sep 28, 2021
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273
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Middle TN
Does anyone know where I can get these fittings on top of my AC compressor? It's an FJ62 Denso compressor, but these fittings have been modified for flare style fittings. I don't mind having some new lines made, but I'm just trying to lay out as many options as I can to get the AC working.
This morning so far I did some more measuring and came up with a viable transmission mount solution, picked up a few bolts I needed, and a pigtail to work with the Ford alternator on this thing.

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Hojack

♠️Project Snowball❄️
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Yeah, I believe I saved time and money by just being in the right place at the right time on this one. I bought the engine, transmission, and all the adapters from a guy who was taking the 4bt stuff out of his FJ62 in favor of LS power and an automatic. He mentioned having the stuff for sale in a Facebook group when I posted asking for guidance on diesel swaps. I really haven't had to find many parts on my own, and I can't imagine a DIY job going any smoother, honestly.
But I am losing steam. I need to get this thing going pretty soon, and there is a ton of work to do yet. The transmission crossmember is going to be the next big thing, and hopefully the last big thing.
The 1984 frame had a 3 piece transmission crossmember that bolted to the vertical inner walls of the frame rails as opposed to the bottom of the frame, and the very nicely modified crossmember I got with the package deal is made for the later FJ62 frame. I plan to use that piece, but will attach it to the frame via bolting it to some thick angle iron that I'll weld to the frame.
I'll get started making, measuring, and drilling sometime today, and hopefully make some progress...
I’d get some DOM tubing for the crossmember.
For your AC connector fitting,
I had good luck with all those type of fittings at Portland Oil Filter Specialties. I’d check to see if you have any specialty shop like that around your area.
 
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Middle TN
I decided to use the crossmember that came with my engine and stuff, and make some brackets for it to bolt to. The FJ62 has a different style of crossmember, but it's not so different that I can't make it work. And this piece is a decent bit of fabricobbling if I do say so myself.
I just got back from Harbor Freight, had to go get some leather sleeves and a welding blanket so I can quit setting myself on fire.
I also picked up the voltage regulator pigtail to get the Ford alternator working.
This is shaping up to be quite a productive weekend!

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Joined
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Middle TN
Aaaaaaaand my welder just s*** the bed.
The little drive wheel that pushes the wire out is worn down and won't feed wire anymore. It's an ancient Millermatic I got for free 15 years ago or more, and it was ancient then, too, lol.
Hopefully my buddy will come over with his welder tomorrow. I'm so close it's driving me nuts. Lol. I guess I'll leave the jack under it for now and start working on wiring and fuel lines tomorrow if he doesn't.
 
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Middle TN
Yesterday I used my buddy's welder and got my crossmember brackets (big ass angle iron) welded to the frame, and got the crossmember bolted up. It's not beautiful, but it should be plenty strong. Welding under a car while laying on the ground sucks, and it was hard to get close enough to really see my work as I was welding. But you know what they say, a grinder and paint make me the welder I ain't!
At least now the entire drivetrain is supported well enough to hold the engine up in place, and I can beef stuff up from here. The clearance from the front axle to the oil pan and passenger motor mount is less than optimal, but I've got some ideas to improve that a little bit, as well as tying in some extensions for the bump stops that will also beef up the frame mounts. I may find myself doing a shackle reversal for a bit more clearance, but it will mean needing to put some longer shackles in the rear as well. I will cross that bridge later on after I get the engine running and maybe drive it for a while and see if it's necessary.
Who knows, it may be SOA on tons and 40's by the time it's all done. It's all just a matter of time and money....
 
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Middle TN
Last night I started working on some bumpstop extensions, because the 4bt ended up being pretty close to the front axle. Am I right in assuming that it's acceptable to limit my uptravel to be about how it was before the lift? A stock 60 doesn't have much room between the axle and bumpstop, and I'd rather give up a little articulation than smack my oil pan or motor mount on the front axle.
I had thought about redesigning the passenger side frame mount, but between the oil filter, starter, and turbo, I simply can't see where I can put it without interference somewhere else.
How much up travel is necessary? Before I weld anything in, I plan to jack up that end of the axle to see how far the tire can move up before contact...
Truth be told, I can already tell I'm gonna want more lift just to allow more articulation. This will be an off-roader, after all....
 
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Messages
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Middle TN
Today I finished up the welding on the motor mounts/ bumpstop extensions, and did a little flex clearance test to see how much uptravel (at the wheel) I have on the passenger side before I need to limit it. Honestly, I'm not as disappointed as I expected to be with the outcome. I was able to max my floor jack out and still had an inch or two before contacting the bumpstops, which will stop any further movement before any hard parts kiss each other. This is at least acceptable until I decide if and how I want to lift it more.
Tomorrow I plan to spend some time sorting out
the new clutch hydraulics to use the toyota master cylinder, a custom line, and a Toyota slave cylinder on the driver side of my bell housing..
This should go some what smoothly as long as I can get it to bleed.

I also have some ideas for fuel supply/return lines, and how to get the fuel from the passenger side to the driver side.
I have some unused factory hard (vacuum?) lines on the firewall at this point that are just about the perfect sizes to bridge the gap from the frame mounted fuel lines to the lift pump and fuel return lines. This will greatly reduce the amount of rubber hose I'll need to use, and aid in a cleaner finished product. We shall see how that goes. I intend to blow them out with brake cleaner and compressed air before sending diesel through them.
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Joined
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That a moto guzzi hiding over there?
Yeah, I'm down to 3 Guzzis after selling off my sidecar rig to pay for the 4bt swap.
I've still got way too much stuff. Kept having cool stuff fall in my lap, and kept hoarding it all up lol.

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Joined
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Today I got all hot and sweaty working in the yard instead of the shop, because a friend needed a concrete floor to work on his car.
I think I have my alternator wiring figured out, as well as my starter wiring, and engine/body grounds, did some cleaning, and painted some of the brackets that will hold the Radiator/intercooler and some other stuff.

Going by the very limited information I could find in a 15 minute Google frenzy, culminating in these two images, the yellow wire on the Ford pigtail does the same thing as the white wire on the Toyota pigtail, correct?
The large diameter white wire on the Toyota side goes directly to the battery, so all both whites on the Toyota side, and the yellow on the Ford side, all go to the charging post, correct?

The small diameter Green wire on the Ford pigtail goes to the ignition switch, which is the smaller yellow wire on the Toyota side, that part is easy enough...
I'd greatly appreciate any input here!
@FJ40Jim I screenshotted your post from 2012, maybe you can enlighten me? Lol, I know it's a longshot...

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Anyway, it's nice to see the 60 in the yard and notice that the 4bt stuff doesn't sag the front springs too bad. I'm glad I bought the OME Heavy stuff...
 
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Middle TN
Today I sorted out my fuel lines, down pipe, and clutch hydraulics.
I imagine I'll get to drive this thing within a week, as long as I can get it to start, and Dave gets my driveshafts done. He's already got the front done.
Once I get the thing to start, I'll start cleaning up the wiring.
My heart doesn't want to start snipping unnecessary stuff out of the wiring harness, but realistically, I know I'll never put this cruiser back to stock, nor will any future owner.
I'm going to save all the crap I've removed, and most of it will be given away or sold.
I removed the carb fan today, figuring I'll never need that thing again... it does still work, after removing all the wasp nests...
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My next major move will be to get the wiring sorted out for my fuel cutoff solenoid, electric vacuum pump, and cooling fan.
I'd like to have all of those on a switched circuit, with relays for the vac pump and fan.
I'm gonna order one of these cheap distribution boxes and have the whole panel switched to be hot with the key on. I'm thinking I might have it switched with a relay so the current load can go through a 40A relay powered directly off the battery, with a bus bar that can also accommodate my winch connections.
This should keep the load going through my ignition switch low.
I've decided to just use the vac pump I got with the swap stuff for now, and upgrade to Hydroboost down the road as time and finances allow. I'm getting to the point that I want this to be a driver, and I can finish up stuff as I go. A driving project car is a lot easier for me to keep motivated on, and I can make small tweaks in my downtime at work.
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I've made a little more progress, got the radiator and intercooler in, fuel lines sorted and got most of my wiring sorted out, and extended the bumpstops a little more.
Also got my downpipe sorted out so I can at least drive to the muffler shop to have the rest of the piping sorted out.
I still need to run a wire for the full cutoff solenoid, and a couple for my electric fan/relay, and fill it up with fluids, but I'm very close to trying to start this thing!

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Once the engine will start, I'll install the driveshafts and go for a test drive. Then it's on to rust repair and interior work.
 
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Just little stuff the rest of the week. Today I ran a wire for the fuel cutoff solenoid, added oil to the engine and changed the oil and fuel filters, and started trying to piece together my AC system. I'm trying figure out which custom hoses I'll need, and where I can mount my filter/drier.
I'd love to see solutions from others who have figured out AC with non-standard engines...
@Hojack, @The Phoenician did you have to get creative with your AC?
 
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I've made a little more progress, got the radiator and intercooler in, fuel lines sorted and got most of my wiring sorted out, and extended the bumpstops a little more.
Also got my downpipe sorted out so I can at least drive to the muffler shop to have the rest of the piping sorted out.
I still need to run a wire for the full cutoff solenoid, and a couple for my electric fan/relay, and fill it up with fluids, but I'm very close to trying to start this thing!

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Once the engine will start, I'll install the driveshafts and go for a test drive. Then it's on to rust repair and interior work.
Ha!

Rust repair....

That'll be, what? 15 mins work?

That is said in my jealous voice.
 

doug720

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Gardnerville!!!
Just little stuff the rest of the week. Today I ran a wire for the fuel cutoff solenoid, added oil to the engine and changed the oil and fuel filters, and started trying to piece together my AC system. I'm trying figure out which custom hoses I'll need, and where I can mount my filter/drier.
I'd love to see solutions from others who have figured out AC with non-standard engines...
@Hojack, @The Phoenician did you have to get creative with your AC?
I used an Isuzu 4BD2. Here are a few shots of my AC parts locations. NAPA has great book that has 100's of AC fittings.
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You might consider modifying the carb fan so that it pulls air out of the engine bay and blows it out the fender. This will help to lower the pressure in the engine bay and will improve your cooling as you can move more air through the radiator. You could install a radiator fitting with a temp switch and a timer relay so that when your coolant temp reaches a certain level your carb fan switches on for 10 minutes.
 
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Middle TN
Getting caught up on the thread, but I love me a diesel conversion. Subscribed.
I've seen that you've had your hands in a 4bt swap or two, I'd love to hear any suggestions you might have. This is my first diesel swap, and I'm kinda flying by the seat of my pants so far...
 

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