A Cry for HELP! (1 Viewer)

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Feb 26, 2007
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Location
Lancaster, PA
I'm making the offer. Anyone that can figure out what the problem with my brakes is I will reward with $100. I need somone willing to make a house call and work with me to diagnose the problem.

Here is what has been replaced and when.
Rear brake hose, custom made 36" braided stainless 7 years old.
Front brake calipers, pads, rotors, 2 years ago
Front inner brake hoses, Trail gear braided Stainless 2.5 years ago.
Rear drums, shoes, wheel cylinders 1 month ago.
New master cylinder 1 month ago.
Front outer brake hoses 1 week ago.

Next up i think I will remove the LSPV and put in a manual proportioning valve. But it probably wont work either.

I am at my wits end with this. I need help and a good stiff drink or 30.
 
Hey Andy,

No bright ideas here, but I'd be happy to come over to help you troubleshoot. I owe you at least that - no cash required!
I don't recall you owin me anything. But maybe we will have a day to work on it if I can at least find the problem
 
LSPV delete...
 
Let me know when you guys plan on meeting. I'll come up if schedule allows.
 
It

It's the 4runner (IIRC) that he was talking about Wednesday night at CMCC, around the FIRE.
Yes. It's a 86 4runner. 04 taco axle in the back and a 80 axle in the front. Back in November the brakes went out suddenly on the trail. No fluid loss or leaks. It would stop but I needed to pump them.
 
I'll be glad to come up and help out, you aren't terribly far at all. Let me get Ben squared away and I'll be free.
I will make my self available. Sprained ankles and all
 
My vote would be a bad master. I see you replaced it. Could be bad out of the box depending where you got it from. I had a bad one from NAPA.

Good luck.
 
The master can leak into the booster and not show a leak
 
I've been through 3 mc's 2 used and now a new. It's unlikely they have all been bad. However possible.
 
I've been through 3 mc's 2 used and now a new. It's unlikely they have all been bad. However possible.

Ya I'm sure you worked throw all that. Brake problems suck.
 
The master can leak into the booster and not show a leak

I thought this only happened for those who are over Sixty???
Andy isn't even forty yet!
 
I was helping him as best I can to try to figure out this issue last time I was up for a annual meet.
Last I left if you pumped them you get brakes but they are still not biting like they should.

No visible leaks present anywhere, he check the booster last time I talked to him and no signs of an internal leak.
Also had him adjust the push rod and last we talked he felt the brake hit harder but nothing as what I even remember the truck like before the issue.

I had him also check to make sure the calipers were not pulling pistons back in, I have had some remans where the seal was not installed correctly and the piston would suck itself in after a brake applications and you would have to pump them to get them to grip again.

He has brake assist so it doesn't seem to be a vacuum issue.
I am not familiar enough with the LSVP system, could that really cause a condition where it feels like there is still air in the system.
We bled and bled and bled, and he bled some more later on, the whole system has fresh fluid.

I've talked to a few friends of mine in the field, on had a suggestion that the brake lines may be bad, even the braided lines can have this issue.

He has the rears adjusted up correctly last we talked and in these systems usually the rear will grip first and then pressure gets set to front.

I too am still scratching my head on this as well, I too have reached the end of ideas to the point we figure out a hydroboost system for his truck...
 
Andy, I agree with you to try deleting the LSPV as a start. As I'm sure you know, you will need to plug the port in the front proportioning valve where the return line from the lspv screws in. If this doesn't help, maybe change the front proportioning valve, they do make adjustable ones(aftermarket). Also as we talked about at cmcc, double check the push rod on the master is completely returning to it's full extent when brake pedal is up especially, as the previous post talked about it has been adjusted for troubleshooting. You could still consider connecting pressure gauges to the bleeders to help figure out what is going on when the pedal is applied. Good Luck.
 
Andy, I agree with you to try deleting the LSPV as a start. As I'm sure you know, you will need to plug the port in the front proportioning valve where the return line from the lspv screws in. If this doesn't help, maybe change the front proportioning valve, they do make adjustable ones(aftermarket). Also as we talked about at cmcc, double check the push rod on the master is completely returning to it's full extent when brake pedal is up especially, as the previous post talked about it has been adjusted for troubleshooting. You could still consider connecting pressure gauges to the bleeders to help figure out what is going on when the pedal is applied. Good Luck.
I totally forgot about that conversation! Thanks for reminding me! I will see what kind of pressure gauges I can come up with.
 

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