A/C system - how to remove the cooling unit, evaporator, expansion valve

[MANUCHAO]

In vehicles leaks usually happen at the service Schrader valves... i would also pressurize the system at different pressures with nitrogen and see if it holds..
if it doesn't then its time pull "big-blu" and spray all fittings, crimp hoses, and service valves..

 

[wiynwiyn]

Do you guys know why there are two relays here? I only have one on the 1997 LC (no wiring connector to the missing relay).
And, what is the "big blue" thanks. Doesn't really get super hot in Seattle in the summer. I can live without ac but not for my family and furry friend, mr Ando. By the way, I installed an ls engine. Using the radiator fan 2 to cool the condenser. Check, and fan 2 is not on when the ac compressor spins.
I'm going to test it out by running fan 2 with a switch and see if it blows cold air or not. Pressure test later. Thanks all.

 

[MANUCHAO]

And, what is the "big blue" thanks.

 

[alia176]

Technically yes, but there could be many other issues causing it to blow warm air. The dripping water is a byproduct of a cold evaporator condensing the moisture in the air.

Before replacing anything I'd find out where the leak is. Was dye added when the mechanic refilled the system? Before filling with refrigerant again you should pull a vacuum and leave it there for an hour or so to confirm there are no leaks. If you lose vacuum during this test then the system will need to be pressurized so you can find the leak.

Also, check the temp of the hard lines going in and out of the compressor. One should be hot, other one should be cold and sweating.

 

[wiynwiyn]

I think I figured it out. After installing a new ac fan in front of the condenser. Now ac is cold. Before I was using the radiator fan to cool it, won’t work with this arrangement. I used a house fan to test it out. When fan was off, blew warm air. Fan on, cold. Thanks all for your time.

 

[Marvelicious]

Wait, you've got two electric fans, but do you also have a clutch fan? I'm confused, because the clutch fan alone should give you cool air.

 

[wiynwiyn]

Wait, you've got two electric fans, but do you also have a clutch fan? I'm confused, because the clutch fan alone should give you cool air.

Sorry about the confusion. I have an ls engine. Works a little diff from the lc. I wanted the second fan to works for the ac, but it didnt work. So I’m running an ac accessory fan for the condenser.

 

[alia176]

I think I figured it out. After installing a new ac fan in front of the condenser. Now ac is cold. Before I was using the radiator fan to cool it, won’t work with this arrangement. I used a house fan to test it out. When fan was off, blew warm air. Fan on, cold. Thanks all for your time.

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I love your testing process, very logical!! I'm curious about the two pusher fans you installed. Might you have links/specs to them? I was thinking about installing one on the driver side, in front of the ATF cooler, but wasn't sure of the clearance. Perhaps you no longer have the ATF cooler in that space?

Incidentally, quite a few of us are controlling the pusher fan(s) to the trinary pressure switch directly in front of the main battery. We're using a relay to send power to the fan (from the trinary switch), but that pressure switch turns the fan(s) on/off based on the r134a high pressure. It automatically shuts off the fan after the high pressure comes down below whatever setpoint that trinary switch resets. Based on the ambient temps, which have been nearing 100deg in my area, my single pusher fan keeps running for well over ten minutes or more.

 

[wiynwiyn]

Sure, let's start with the radiator fan first. I'm using this derale duel fans (price skyrocketed, got it for like 400 bucks, now 600) for my ls swap.
it pushes out 4,000 cfm. The ecm turns on fan 1 at 195 F and fan 2 at 205 F. Works, pretty good; never goes beyond 200 F. Was pretty easy to fabricated
this derale fans to fit the LC radiator. Check out my build (Japan meets america), page 6 for more info on the fan setup.
On to the Derale trans cooler (driver side), Nice thing with this is that fan comes on at 180 F. I removed the LC ATF cooler one since was was old and in favoring the derale one. In traffic, the tempt stays around 160 +/- 1 F. Had a trans cooler (pic 2), removed it to make room for the ac fan (800 cfm, 12" x 12". This fan you can switch the wires to make it push or pull. When it was on, tempt was 140 F, glad I removed it. Tempt was too low for my liking. So the way how I previously set it up, radiator fan 2 would come on when it reaches a certain pressure from the compressor. That was a mistake because the radiator sits in between the ac condenser, means not eating cool air to the ac condenser. Works highway speed but the air in the cabin was warm in traffic. This makes me think the cause was a missing ac fan. Hooking up the trinary switch was simple according to the diagram.

 

[alia176]

Very cool, thx for the info. I'll PM you with questions vs derailing this thread!