Build '97 40th Build

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i'm at 240k miles right now, and this is what my PHH looked like too...

the mechanic thought that maybe this wasn't even it's first HG (2nd i guess)... i'll definitely be taking pics of it to show on here... as i am curious...

as you can see... not ideal.... being replaced with the green stripe bypass...

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I like Green Stripe too. Anyone know of a Toyota part # for a Spring clamp like pictured on the left hose that's larger diameter to fit? It'd be best of both worlds then outside of silicone hose.
 
The engine is torn down and at the machine shop. really glad I went 'all in' and pulled the whole engine. Some scoring on the surface of the block, so it would have had to come out anyways.

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Time to start ordering parts. Am waiting for word from the machine shop on condition, hoping that the head isn't too warped. Injectors going in for service tomorrow.
 
You're ahead of me. Keep us posted of how it turns out.
 
Sometimes the machine shop will let you use their "dishwasher." Makes cleaning easier and faster.
 
Not sure why the pics wouldn't show up, hopefully people are seeing them.

Been ordering a bunch of stuff, card is smoking now...

Injectors sent off to RC engineering for cleaning and balancing. They are only a couple of hours away from me, but shipped them. I'll post the results when I get them. I'm concerned about the #6 cylinder because it had obviously been driven with the leaking head gasket for a while and the injector nozzle area was all discolored compared to the others.
 
I'm not having any trouble seeing the pics. Are you going to do anything to the trans or transfer case?
 
I'm planning to do a TransGo shift kit on the transmission, new pan seal and a filter if there is one in there. Since the torque converter pulled off the trans and dumped fluid all over my work space, it's getting a full fluid change too. I don't really like automatics, and the faster/firmer I can make the shifting, the more I'll like it.

I've wheeled with manuals before though and I'm looking forward to trying the automatic in the dirt. I only have about 10 minutes behind the wheel of an LC since this one had a bad motor when I got it. I test drove a couple of used ones i considered buying and the shifting was slow and mushy on both of them. If it really annoys me, I'll look into adding a Compushift in the future because it's usually the shift points and patterns that bother me more than slow mushy shifts. The only automatic I've driven that i actually liked is the 6 speed direct sequential in the VW GTI, but that's actually a computer controlled manual trans, so that has a lot to do with it.

I'm not sure if there is anything I should do with the transfer case. It looks like it's been rebuilt at some point, it has red sealant on it, and I think Toyota used grey. I may be wrong on that though. The transfer case is also much cleaner than the transmission, the transmission has mud and grime on it, but the transfer case is clean.

Any suggestions on service that should be done to the transfer case while it's out of the vehicle?
 
I'm also thinking about adding a shift kit. I read on a link on mud that my trans may be under a TSB recommending another check ball in the valve body. I'm wondering if the shift kit corrects for this anyways. https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/transmission-lifetime.89842/

Go ahead and drain the torque converter while you are at it. Is it necessary or good preventative to change the tranny to torque converter seal in the process?

I've always wheeled with a manual until recently I experienced an auto in Moab and I have to say I was pleasantly surprised how nice it was on the ledges and slick rock.

My transfer case also has the red sealant on it and I've read elsewhere here that was stock maybe. I would feel the bearings and drain/check oil magnet for issues, otherwise drain and refill.
 
Worked on cleaning up and prepping various parts for re-assembly. I polished the raised letters on the valve cover, and then masked and primed it. All ready for some paint now, but I'll paint everything on the same day, after I have the block ready to paint.

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Other parts are starting to arrive, timing kit, A/C compressor, A/C o-ring kit, expansion valve, hoses, etc...

Still waiting on word from the machine shop on the work required for the block and head.
 
By the way, I understand the trans has a metal screen that can be reused and a Toyota FIPG sealer on the pan. Evidently there is an aftermarket gasket available, but I don't know the part #. Looks nice! How did you polish the letters?
 
The letters were polished using sand paper. Started with regular 80 grit to smooth the rough sand cast down, and then moved up through the grits. At 320 switched to wet/dry and added water. Went to 1200. After paint, I'll re-do the 1200 and go up to 3200 for a mirror like finish.

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The valve cover will be gloss back and the contrast should look pretty good. I also de-badged the plastic covers and they will get a shot of body matched paint.

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Doing the important stuff. Still waiting on the machine shop. They are a very popular shop but that means they are also very busy.
 
Received the injectors back today. I used RC Engineering for the work. They provide a nice table of before and after data, as many of you already know. They were all slightly clogged, but one fairly significantly clogged that had a dripping spray pattern. They cleaned up and balanced ranging from 304 - 306 cc/min. The most clogged one was 287 cc/min previously. They look clean and like new after the service, good to know they are ready for another couple of hundred thousand miles.
 
to answer your question regarding transfer case and ways to spend even more of your money, you can get a low gear set from Marlin Crawler, and a part time conversion kit from Lokka. you could also make your own part time kit. I went this route with inspiration from Beno's thread, and love the results!
 
What's the link for that? Thanks!
 
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/converting-hf2av-transfer-case-into-part-time-transfer-case.358811/

I did mine on the cheap, using my barbeque I heated the carrier in a cast iron rock pot full of sandblasting media, them MIG welded it, put it back in the barbeque and slowly turned the heat down. turns out there is a MIG wire suited to welding cast steel, I only learned of this after using regular .30 wire. look on pirate for a 4 door wife beater thread in the taco section for wire specifics, or talk to your welding supply house.
BEST MOD EVER for the amount of work involved
 
Talked to the machine shop today. The #6 bore is damaged and the #6 piston also damaged. Looks like the #6 cylinder was scraping it's skirt on the bore. Should find out tomorrow if the block can be bored or not, depends on how badly it was damaged.
 
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