Build 94 FZJ80 - Let the Adventure Ensue
- Thread starter FMC80
- Start date
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A gunsmith/ shop would be able to Cerakote pretty easily locally - Or you can ship the part to a speed shop and have them coat whith what ever they use on headers (which I assume is basically the same as Cerakote).
You could always Cerakote yourself. It's not hard as long as the part you're working on will fit in your oven.
You could always Cerakote yourself. It's not hard as long as the part you're working on will fit in your oven.
For smaller parts, I've seen a lot of guys source a thrift store toaster oven to keep stuff out of the "food" oven. I think with some toaster ovens temperature capability can be an issue as well.
I just skimmed the thread so maybe I missed some stuff. But good for you for doing a new oem radiator and coolant system. Consider saving money and not doing the starter unless it is acting up. Add oem front wheel bearings and add some work on the rear axle seals and wheel bearings.
Ac system is one place I didnt use OEM parts. But there is a place you can get all oem quality Denso parts for reasonable price for the ac system. If you open it up just consider doing it all at once.
Ac system is one place I didnt use OEM parts. But there is a place you can get all oem quality Denso parts for reasonable price for the ac system. If you open it up just consider doing it all at once.
Also, is it the oil pump cover seal? I cant remember but it is good to change while the radiator is out.
If you have a obd1 and you desmog you can put the new o2 sensors in the pair location. The plugs stay dry and wont get corrosion on them. That and cleaning the harness end plugs fixed my check engine code on my obd1.
If you have a obd1 and you desmog you can put the new o2 sensors in the pair location. The plugs stay dry and wont get corrosion on them. That and cleaning the harness end plugs fixed my check engine code on my obd1.
Cerakoting in your oven is just a marital test. If you're denied, time for an upgrade!
Make sure your new ones are the BLACK seals, as they are smaller on the new "revised" VC, per Onur. The red ones will it your OLD VC, but not your new one.
When I replaced my AC system I used Denso and 4seasons parts from rock auto. I spent $600 from what I remember in, I think 2017.
FMC80
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #294
Okay. Found the oil loss culprit. I screwed up the VC gasket when I installed it the first time. I chunked it and it was cut in two places. I threw the new VC on along with new 2X FHH and a few other cooling hoses.
you can see the oil on the throttle body gasket.
Changed out the accelerator cable. My old one looked like a prolapsed b-hole.
Here is the one I jacked up:
Here’s a nice shot of some platinum grade coolant, better than any coolant ever, specially formulated to increase HP & MPG simultaneously. @Bludozer I spilled some on the ground and a couple virgins ladies nearby had to be sacrificed.
you can see the oil on the throttle body gasket.
Changed out the accelerator cable. My old one looked like a prolapsed b-hole.
Here’s a nice shot of some platinum grade coolant, better than any coolant ever, specially formulated to increase HP & MPG simultaneously. @Bludozer I spilled some on the ground and a couple virgins ladies nearby had to be sacrificed.
At least you didn’t pinch the wire harness between the VC and the head like I did last year. Kept blowing the fusible links. The first time I started it after assembly it ran well for maybe 7-8 minute then it began missing and coughing profusely.
The wire insulation got hot enough to melt and that injector got shorted to ground and hung open.
The wire insulation got hot enough to melt and that injector got shorted to ground and hung open.
Looking good Pell. There's nothing quite like doing things twice is there?
I also read through that thread regarding valve cover and tube seal changes. Now I have to figure out where my new seals are to double check the part #.
I also read through that thread regarding valve cover and tube seal changes. Now I have to figure out where my new seals are to double check the part #.
FMC80
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #297
Thanks Mike, it is a pain but I have no regrets. I wanted a new VC anyway and this gave me enough reason to get one. I’m sure you have the right seals but if not let me know if you need the brown ones because I have extra.Looking good Pell. There's nothing quite like doing things twice is there?
I also read through that thread regarding valve cover and tube seal changes. Now I have to figure out where my new seals are to double check the part #.
Mine are correct sir (I didn't remember them being brown). Thank you!
FMC80
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #299
BLUF: My right rear passenger window can’t seem to unfuck itself.
BACKGROUND: previous owner jacked up the window by removing the track assembly from the bottom of the window itself. I got the cruiser and saw that the rubber filler was blown out like like a b-hole after a night of binge drinking s***ty clear liquor. I have read every thread. I have jimmied my window to an incomprehensible extent. I bought new rubber filler, used the BRUTE force of my friend who is built like an ogre (looks like one too). Yet my window has fallen off track at least 69 times. Last night was the last time.
This morning I removed the quarter window, removed the vertical guide track, and removed the rear window. Grabbed the track assembly and used copious amounts of soapy water and a some spit; a method used by porn stars.
I also tried to crimp the track that the window will seat into because it seems the PO stupidly flared it open. Then I grabbed a 2x4 and smashed the track onto the window assembly with a rubber mallet.
I cleaned up the window edges with some 0000 steel wool, used Q-tips meant for my doggos in the window runners and scrubbed the hell out of everything with soapy water and phlegm.
WAY FORWARD: If this window pops out of that metal track again I’m parting out my cruiser.
BACKGROUND: previous owner jacked up the window by removing the track assembly from the bottom of the window itself. I got the cruiser and saw that the rubber filler was blown out like like a b-hole after a night of binge drinking s***ty clear liquor. I have read every thread. I have jimmied my window to an incomprehensible extent. I bought new rubber filler, used the BRUTE force of my friend who is built like an ogre (looks like one too). Yet my window has fallen off track at least 69 times. Last night was the last time.
This morning I removed the quarter window, removed the vertical guide track, and removed the rear window. Grabbed the track assembly and used copious amounts of soapy water and a some spit; a method used by porn stars.
I also tried to crimp the track that the window will seat into because it seems the PO stupidly flared it open. Then I grabbed a 2x4 and smashed the track onto the window assembly with a rubber mallet.
I cleaned up the window edges with some 0000 steel wool, used Q-tips meant for my doggos in the window runners and scrubbed the hell out of everything with soapy water and phlegm.
WAY FORWARD: If this window pops out of that metal track again I’m parting out my cruiser.
"WAY FORWARD: If this window pops out of that metal track again I’m parting out my cruiser."
LOL!!
LOL!!