I am using the DD. I’ve seen on two videos you need to bypass a resistor on the back of the cluster. I’m going to call DD to see if I can confirm.
Registry 8x Series V8 Swaps (3 Viewers)
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
I never even pulled the cluster while doing the swap on my 94.
I mounted the DD module behind the passenger side dash speaker and tied to the tach wire that previously went to the “DIAGNOSIS” port under the hood.
Thanks. So you didn’t bypass the resistor some guys mention etc. I’ll look for that wire and see if I can get the test signal to work.
I’m on pin 4 of connector IH1. Which is the correct wire. I can connect via blue tooth and Intry multiple settings. Hi/lo out out. Different inputs and outputs. Which shouldn’t matter for the test signal it can produce.
Spoke with DD tech support. Very helpful. We verified a good signal in from the GM pcm. Which you can do by measuring VAC. My output from the gm pcm tach out was 7vac if I remember correctly. The DD box was pushing a signal. Which you can measure with and without a load ( vehicle tach hooked up). Unfortunately many models are different and I think I am going to have to pull my cluster to bypass the resistor some have talked about. More to follow. Mine is a 1994 10/94 build date.
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
I didn’t do anything at the cluster. Don’t remember any talk of resistors then either, but it’s been quite some time.
My ‘94 is a Nov 93 build date.
Yeah. Not sure why mine isn’t working. The needle did bump a few times. Not sure why there are cases of people having to do and some not. I was able to measure a good signal from the gm pcm, and out of the dd box. It’s an AC signal.
Last edited:
Well I found out why the check engine light wasn’t working when I tried testing all my circuits. Someone pulled that bulb a long time ago.
Great news I got my tach working ! All gauges working whew! We are seriously down hill now. I’m going to re do my fan wiring since my first attempt didn’t work. I got some new relays and slow blow circuit breakers. Since I’m breaking out fans from my relay box. I have more room, so I’m going to spread out some of my engine systems that I combined initially for space. I.e coils, fuel injectors, o2 sensors. Right now I have them all spliced together and linked to 3 fuses.
To get my tach to work, I did the “bypass” the resistor on the back of the tach to work. I’m using the standard PCM output. Settings were in 4 cyl, signal high, output 6. I also think some of the issue is thst even though you’re changing settings on the DD box via Bluetooth, I think it takes a key cycle to “rewrite” the settings. I know it may be different for different folks. DD said they have issues with Toyota because they see a lot of variants within model years. So who knows. It works. That’s all I care about.
Last edited:
Thanks to everyone!! It takes a lot of input to keep going with this project. I’m so close! I can already see myself cruising the trails!
What did anyone did for the “charge light “ which comes from the Toyota alt 3 pin connector y-w wire. Where did you connect to your GM system. I’m not familiar with this system. My alternator has a 4-pin connector with only one wire coming from. Any tips?? I do know that this source is used by Toyota through diodes and when grounded. Charge light is on, with power lights out. I’ve actually jumped this to pwr and ground when troubleshooting my tach.
What did anyone did for the “charge light “ which comes from the Toyota alt 3 pin connector y-w wire. Where did you connect to your GM system. I’m not familiar with this system. My alternator has a 4-pin connector with only one wire coming from. Any tips?? I do know that this source is used by Toyota through diodes and when grounded. Charge light is on, with power lights out. I’ve actually jumped this to pwr and ground when troubleshooting my tach.
if your LC is 1991-1992 your tach wil not work with DD i do not remember exacly why but something with high woltage vs low voltage i have 1991 and i just instaled 1994 tach and it works no problem so you must use 1993 -1994 tack if i remember corectly you do not need to replace whole cluster just the tach
I have a 94. Working great now!
Not sure if this will help, I don't know which alt you're using, but it looks like Pin F would be the one to use with the factory Y-W wire and you should be good to go.
"this was the way to control "Charge Light" This is not needed for aftermarket use."
"this was the way to control "Charge Light" This is not needed for aftermarket use."
Almost ALL the late GM Alternator Information you could need!!
ALTERNATOR INFORMATION. So let's get this ironed out now. I see so many questions about alternators, and honestly, I see a LOT of wrong answers. I'm not the most informed on the situation, but I will share all the data I have to help some of you guys out. The LS engine came with many different...
speedmaxinnovation.com
Great work man. I’m right behind you. This weekend I should get my tack and CEL as well done.
If you have a pick show me your setup on the Shifter from DD that you did for the dash. I recall you installed it inside the cab.
Perfect info! Exactly what I needed to get the Toyota charge light circuit. Be nice to know if alt quits.Not sure if this will help, I don't know which alt you're using, but it looks like Pin F would be the one to use with the factory Y-W wire and you should be good to go.
"this was the way to control "Charge Light" This is not needed for aftermarket use."
Almost ALL the late GM Alternator Information you could need!!
ALTERNATOR INFORMATION. So let's get this ironed out now. I see so many questions about alternators, and honestly, I see a LOT of wrong answers. I'm not the most informed on the situation, but I will share all the data I have to help some of you guys out. The LS engine came with many different...speedmaxinnovation.com
I actually gave up on trying to mount the DD pot in the shifter assembly. I called DD and they said it’s a sealed unit designed for outside use. I couldn’t find a spot on the shifter to get it to work.
I've got a question for the group, which seems to be puzzling me.
When did chevy quit putting external fuel filters on their vehicles?
My 97 5.7 has the little one in the tank and then another on the supply line up near the transmission.
I was looking on rock auto for fuel filters fir my 15 6.0 and the 20 6.6 I have and nothing is listed. I posted the same question on a Facebook group, and was told they basically quit doing it. Only filter is the little one in the tank.
.
I just find that surprising, given the injection process, they wouldn't want to ensure absolutely clean fuel - like they do with diesels.
Is that the same trend with Ford and dodge?
When did chevy quit putting external fuel filters on their vehicles?
My 97 5.7 has the little one in the tank and then another on the supply line up near the transmission.
I was looking on rock auto for fuel filters fir my 15 6.0 and the 20 6.6 I have and nothing is listed. I posted the same question on a Facebook group, and was told they basically quit doing it. Only filter is the little one in the tank.
.
I just find that surprising, given the injection process, they wouldn't want to ensure absolutely clean fuel - like they do with diesels.
Is that the same trend with Ford and dodge?
not to be a lazy a******.... but kinda. the 5.3 is wired, chevy things are doing chevy things. is there a diagram of ih1 and ih2 that shows me what is what so I can start thinning my Toyota harness. that way my lockers and gauges can do Toyota things?
