81 BJ42 - I have to bring it home and pass inspection

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lostmarbles said:
I'm sure swapping to allen-head makes stripping far more likely.

Allen-head is basically inferior (and used mainly for cosmetic reasons or to restrict screw/plug head-size) because the key-head must apply the loosening torque using a very small distance-measurement. (Torque = force x distance). This means the forces applied to the female hexes by the allen key head (in the socket) have to be far greater (than if a traditional socket were being used on a hex-head) with much less metal-contact there to work with.

In applications where high loosening-torque needs to be applied, Allen-head only work satisfactorily if the metallurgy in the head and key are top notch.

My 2c...

:cheers:
Click to expand...

I agree with that. I think the ultimate would be a Torx-plus socket head.
 
lostmarbles said:
I'm sure swapping to allen-head makes stripping far more likely.

Allen-head is basically inferior (and used mainly for cosmetic reasons or to restrict screw/plug head-size) because the key-head must apply the loosening torque using a very small distance-measurement. (Torque = force x distance). This means the forces applied to the female hexes by the allen key head (in the socket) have to be far greater (than if a traditional socket were being used on a hex-head) with much less metal-contact there to work with.

In applications where high loosening-torque needs to be applied, Allen-head only work satisfactorily if the metallurgy in the head and key are top notch.

My 2c...

:cheers:
Click to expand...
put some anti seize on the threads then, a fill plug should not require a breaker bar and massive amounts of torque to remove, Id stay away from aluminum plugs though. :meh:

The allen head fill plug on my NV is great because it sticks in the plug and doesnt fall off, the plug is a little awkward to get at so not having a socket fall off is nice.


You cant adjust camber/castor unless you shim the springs. If you want to lift the tires and put the axle on jacks the you can rotate them and run a chalk line then measure to centers. I find it difficult to get a straight chalk line, and the chalk line is a bit wide.

Its a bit difficult to see clearly the exact measurement with a tape measure on the lip of the metal rim, but after messing with it to compare front to back a couple times while you spin the tie rod you'll get the hang of it.

I did Ian's on saturday this way, maybe he's got some feedback?
 
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When I bought my BJ40 back in 1981 the fill plug on the gearbox was already graunched-up by some random hamfisted professional mechanic. (All the service work at that stage was recorded in the Toyota Service Booklet that the PO left in the glovebox.)

I replaced that plug many years later with a new one so all my fill and drain plugs are now in top condition and none that I've had out have ever later been difficult to remove.

Unfortunately some people seem to have an extreme fear of things loosening up (from vibration or whatever) so their solution is to apply the greatest tightening torque they can manage.

(Wheel nuts are common victims of these people so that's a big factor in why I do all my tyre changing myself.)

So what I'm saqying is .... I think I could certainly get away with fitting allen-head drain and fill plugs because I'm not a person who over-tightens things.
(But I see no advantage for me in fitting them so I won't.)

:beer:
 
I agree with Tom. Although I have to admit to replacing all the Allen fill and drain plugs on my Dodge Ram with 1.25" sockets because I simply don't like allens.
 
I read about using a nail into the tread to adjust toe. I take a small finishing nail and push it a little ways into the tread to hold it is all. The front end would be on jack stands at this point. Then spinj tires so the nail is at the front.... and rotate back then measure teh distance at the back and adjust accordingly.

As always Kevin the truck is looking tip top. Can't wait to see it on the slick rock of Moab. There will be many classic photos taken while down there I'm sure as what you have is just that.

When is the official inspection?
 
Its in right now. I feel like a nervous father pacing in the waiting room.

Did some more work last night. Toe in was actually toe out about 1/8". Changed it to toe in 1/8". Made a noticeable change in the randomness of bumpsteer. Used my sharpie-on-a-stick method to mark the tire.

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Also had to nearly remove the top on order to re-attach the washer fluid line. Had to flop the windshield to gain access. Washing the windshield would result in a flooded glove box. Nice to get a look at the window seals anyway.

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Good chance to clean that rust up before it goes wild least. I changed my squirter to the old bonnet style. You'll find yours won't work on the freeway with the top off for anything other than showering you with washer fluid.

Good luck with the inspection: hope they don't ping you for the scuffed floor mats...
 
That windshield frame and channel look to be in very good condition.

I went with the hood mounted sprayer as well. The metal tube that goes through the windshield frame was blocked.
 
It sprays quite nicely now. A least stationary in the garage. I must have pulled the hose off at some points over the last 7 months because I recall using it just before the landslide near Banff on the drive over the hills in August.
 
Be sure to zip tie the hose to the wiring harness in the glove box well. I pulled mine off a number of times by snagging it with items in the glove box. Of course, one time I didn't notice and ruined my original owner's manual rather than cleaning the window.....not happy Jan. That was the final straw for my windscreen-mounted squirter.
 
hope to see this truck in person on Sunday ...
can hardly wait!!
 
I'll have to wash it and buff the old paint!
 
Yup. Kinda anticlimatic. 7 months of work for 45mins of inspection. I guess all my work paid off. The spirit of the inspection guidelines are correct in that the intention is to keep dangerous vehicles off the roads when they are entering from out of provence. I chose an independent one man operation as the provider. I also made sure he was the practical minded sort who didn't sweat the letter of the law but simply made sure the rig was safe. He checked brakes and steering as well as lights and seat belts etc. But the dollar coin sized defect in the windshield waaaaaay over in the passenger corner didn't phase him. If one reads the inpection checklist that would have caused failure but practically it has no effect on safety.

A fellow club member recently imported a mini truck from Cali and the shop that inspected it was trying to fail it because it had no clutch safety switch even though it did not have such a device from new. The inspection criteria simply stated "fail if not functioning". They tried to force him to install one until he made them call the gubberment for clarification. Big brother said if you can't buy the part and install it, because it doesn't exist, then that rule doesn't apply. Common sense really but that shop was interpreting the rules their way. The shop in question is "the" Landcruiser shop here in town. Needless to say, I didn't go there.
 
Thats good, we never doubted it would pass Kevin. But in a small way I think we wanted them to tell you it needed powersteering and a 4 link suspension before they would consider it safe for alberta roads.... ;p

We will see ya this this evening.
 
law - rules = common sense ... really?

when i had vehicles inspected in Calgary i used ProActive for customer vehicles and ProStar for my own. ProStar was common sense. ProActive covered my ass since they were so particular and "by the book".
 
So a Looney-sized crack on the passenger side, a looney on the driver side and they still passed you. Crikey, they aren't as pedantic as I thought.
 
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