80 Series General Tech and Classifieds (4 Viewers)

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Just throwing this out there. Weren't there some Chevy and GMC trucks or SUVs made with an AWD t case? Could that solve some issues?
 
I guess you can dump your gear driven t-case for a chain driven case, relocate the gas tank, swap the rear axle to one that has a centered diff and make driveshafts, if you really wanted to use a GM t-case...
 
offr0adlim0 said:
I guess you can dump your gear driven t-case for a chain driven case, relocate the gas tank, swap the rear axle to one that has a centered diff and make driveshafts, if you really wanted to use a GM t-case...
Click to expand...

Had not done any research, just thinking out loud.
 
I'm confused as to why y'all are having to reinvent the wheel since so many 80s have been converted to date. Is it to keep the 80 Tcase? I too like AWD but for this expense and trouble I'd be rocking a splitcase or whatever
The cheapest adapter was for and lock out hubs.
 
I know you guys have done it before but I am having terrible time searching.

Any tips/advice on water resisting a 80. Let's say it is bone stock, aside from full armor, lift, lights, roof rack, drawers... haha


I know y'all have gone to Alaska and a few other "wet" places.

Thanks guys.
 
@Bossman is the one to ask on this but if I recall correctly, we basically unplugged every connection under the hood and put dialectic grease in that connection then reconnected. The distributor has several holes in the base that need to be plugged 3 I think. We ran a vent tube out of one of the holes to keep it vented. We pulled the distributor to do this btw. Again, maybe bossman will chime in.
 
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Venable Glass only offers the blue tint/ blue shade window. My truck has the bronze tint side windows, clear windshield and aftermarket clear rear glass. Gonna look for clear glass options. Anybody know something else about this?

Edit:
2015 Update: Windshield Options

This may be a s*** show.
 
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Start with extending the vent lines from the diffs, transmission, and t-case. Make sure all the axle seals, hub seals, wipers, etc are in good shape. Grease all of your u-joints well. Next be sure all the inner fender aprons are in good shape and that the metal splash guard under the radiator is there and has not been discarded. Jeff covered the electrical on the engine pretty well. I really recommend Toyota plug wires, distributor cap and rotor. Depending on the year model there can be as many as five vent holes in the distributor. Vent one with a rubber line and plug the rest with silicone or similar. Dielectric grease in every electrical connection you can find including both ends of each plug wire. Paper element in your air filter only! No K & N type cloth filters as they don't swell when wet like a paper filter does and will allow more water through if things go wrong. Finally, pick up some silicone waterproofing spray at the auto parts store of your choice and spray liberally over any electrical parts you can find (cold engine when you do this).

I have never felt the need to do it but there are a number of electrical connections in the cab under the kick panels. You may want to give them some love with the dielectric grease as well. Depending on the condition of your door seals, you might get some water intrusion into the cab and your carpet might get wet. Not a big deal to me but some really stress about it. If you do, get some gaffers tape and tape up all the door seams on the doors you won't be using.

The speed of travel is pretty key to successful water crossings. Too much speed is worse than not enough. You want to move at a rate that creates a small bow wave in front of the truck. That speed changes with each crossing depending on flow rates, upstream or downstreamm, etc. Just be calm and deliberate. Don't attempt a serious river crossing alone! I always suggest having a 25-30' tow strap already attached to your tow points front and rear before you attempt a crossing. Fold the up neatly and secure them with the little ball bungees such that you can yank them free with very little effort if you need to deploy them in an emergency. Also, roll up your upstream windows.

That's all I can think of right now. Should keep you busy for a while :)
 
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AK 16.JPG

This is the tow strap configuration we used. Attached with ball bungees for easy removal in a time of need. We had the same type set up in the rear attached to the top of the spare tire on the swing out.
 
That was my favorite camp site in Alaska
 
Hell yeah!

You guys are always the bomb! I just expected a link to somewhere else. Not a full blown write up! Hell yeah

This is just in prep for the High Water Mark trail we're doing next month. Just a few had been asking me and I figured you guys would know best, and I was right!!


And I never realized the dizzy had that many holes. Always thought it was my seal leaking just when rinsing the engine bay

And redoing axles (again) as we speak. So that is covered!
 
IMG_1405.JPG
I think I have the power steering part of my swap worked out courtesy of PSC. I'm going to use the stock pump that came with the donor 6.0, a late model Impala pulley(not in pic), remove the ham can reservior, use part SR2545-10 to convert the pump to a remote reservoir, all conversion fittings to change the pressure and return lines to -6. I opted for a fancy reservior that has the provision for hydroboost now that a conversion is available for an 80. Im so ready to drive a 445hp 80.
 
PSC makes some good stuff, solved my ps issues on my swap, I ran their pump too (5.7)
 
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