Question for the experts - Should I worry about correcting this caster (-0.5)? Purchased with a 2” lift installed. I have a 93, so it appears ABS lines are mounted to the radius arms. Drop bracket is likely not an option, so would need caster correction plates on diff. How concerning is -0.5 degree?
80 Series - Caster on 2” Lift
- Thread starter Riggins03
- Start date
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depends if it bothers you or not, I drove without any caster correction for ~5 years because I was lazy and cheap.
Think I was at -2
Just got delta arms and wish I did sooner
Think I was at -2
Just got delta arms and wish I did sooner
- Thread starter
- #3
The steering feels loose is my only concern. Didn’t know if the negative caster would lead to any other issues associated with the powertrain. Wish they made the bolt on drop bracket that didn’t interfere with the ABS / brake lines, but I haven’t found any. The job would involve extending those lines as well. Delta arms are out of my price range for now.
Caster bushings would be the cheapest option and would likely make an improvement on your steering. Caster plates would be better if your stock bushings are still in good shape.
help needed with Ironman 2" front spring install - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/help-needed-with-ironman-2-front-spring-install.880054/
Check the link. I had issues with 2" springs and caster plates. The springs were knocking against something when braking. Good luck!
Check the link. I had issues with 2" springs and caster plates. The springs were knocking against something when braking. Good luck!
Plates will require welding and cutting. I'm sure you could get the drop brackets to work with your obd1 setup.
Another option is off center trunion bearings
Another option is off center trunion bearings
FWIW I have been running UNwelded caster plates for over 10 years without issue.
Factory bushing and caster plates would give you good results.
If cost is not an issue then Delta arms is the best choice available.
my 2.5" caster plates are very popular. easy to install, you need to bore a 5/8 hole on the front of both brackets. I supply the hole saw which is very easy to use. The plate already has a 5/8 hole in it so you use that hole to guide the bit to cut the holes in the factory bracket.
then bolt everything together and drive it to a local shop to put a few stitches in and call it a day.
Figure 2 hours to break down the front axle, drill the holes and bolt everything back together.
personally I wouldn't skip the welding step.
then bolt everything together and drive it to a local shop to put a few stitches in and call it a day.
Figure 2 hours to break down the front axle, drill the holes and bolt everything back together.
personally I wouldn't skip the welding step.
I made a run of plates several years back for mostly local guys. The shape is different for better clearance but the holes are in the same location providing the exact caster as SLee and Metal Tech plates, As for caster plates in general they all require grinding/cutting.
Somethig to consider: If your future build requires more caster after you installed any caster plate it will require a lot of work to run a arm like Delta once you cut the factory mounts up. I can tell you without question if you can afford Delta's arms do it. If they were available when I needed caster I would have Delta arms. Although factory spec is 2-4 degrees the difference is HUGE on a lifted rig. At 2 degrees its like hearding sheep and at 4+ degree you mom will love driving your 80.
- Thread starter
- #13
Thanks for the information. I don’t have any plans to do much larger lift at this time. Sounds like caster plate may be the best option. I see a lot of 4 degree and 5 degree plates, so that would put me between 3.5 and 4.5 degrees after correction.
Completely agree. Delta arms are the best, but I don’t wheel often and went with plates. Mine are currently not welded and haven’t given me any issues, though you should weld them if you have the option.
My plates properly correct for caster if the ranges of 2.5” and 4”. Provided arms provide the proper amount of caster correction. The only difference between my plates and custom arms is cost.
My plates bolt though holes in the axle bracket just like the factory arms or the aftermarket armed.
My plates bolt though holes in the axle bracket just like the factory arms or the aftermarket armed.
My plates index to the axle brackets and provide a guide to drill a hole to relocate the bolt position. That position is well beyond the area of the factory location.
Stitching my plate to the factory bracket is a common cautionary practice.
Stitching my plate to the factory bracket is a common cautionary practice.
@LandCruiserPhil summed it up well
With negative caster, your truck is likely to wander and be unpredictable on uneven road surfaces and particularly when braking. It's not a relaxing drive
With caster at 3⁰+, you can comfortably drive with one finger on the wheel (assuming everything else under the front end is in good shape)