80 Series 4" Lift Disaster Help...

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I know you don't need to read anymore WTF replies but seriously, WTF did that dude do to your 80?
 
before you go out and spend a bunch of money keep posting here and asking questions. you might be cheaper off to get a new front axle housing rather than have that fixed. i am sorry for this but he did you way wrong.
 
I'm with the rest of the forum, who does this!? I mean really!? What kind of potato headed Downey (no offense to anyone with impaired children) does this!? Seriously, I know of people who went similar routes with Arctic style trucks, but they were super cheapskates and ruined their rigs. This is BAD...REAL BAD! a suspension lift isn't rocket science so I'm not sure how they screwed this up so epically. Small claims court is your friend on this one. Seriously, don't let them get away with this garbage, complete BS is what that is. Anyway, your transfer case leaking like it is seems like it's been doing it for a long while, shouldn't have been affected by this crap work fore and aft unless there was severe binding and you were driving it. Even then the driveline u-joints are more likely to break before the output shaft bearings fail. The tie rod bolts you're reffering to I am assuming are the lower trunnion bearing/steering arm bolts since you said there were 4. Also not their doing, it happens sometimes, though it could have been related to vibration caused from crap work and misalignment. Or they're one of those shops who while they're changing your oil they loosen or break things so you come back for more repairs. 60 minutes did a series on those shops. Anyway, glad you're okay and didn't end up grievously injured or something. Sue them, and Sue them good. Get their bussiness license revoked.
 
I would make the guess that buying used axle(s) and returning to stock would be the first course of action. Then restart so you know your in line with the realm of experience in the market. This most likely will be cheaper anyway- fab work is expensive- undoing someones fab work is another order of magnitude.
I am very sorry for your experience brother.
 
Talk to jonathan (rockjock). He is in Tucson and can sort out that mess. I'm not sure if he has a shop setup yet but he was planning on beginning of the year.

Also if your a 1/2 :banana: wrencher forget about the 4 in. it's too much potential problems correcting caster and driveline vibes for someone that potentially can't resolve them without hiring out.
 
Last edited:
Um, no.

I'm very sorry you got so completely hosed by this guy.
Yeah No.webp
 
take pictures, call lawyer. Springs and shocks and a few other do-dads were all you needed
 
Both Google and BBB list this business as closed in the last 12 months.
BBB has one registered complaint against them that describes many of the same things done to you and your vehicle.

I don't recall how long ago this started or finished for you, but this guy knows the game and takes people to the cleaners.

I found this info in a few minutes on my phone.

The moral here is to do your research on who will be working on your vehicle and you are placing your family in a vehicle modified by these people.

How did you come to find them and convince yourself to do business with him in the first place?

There was a similar scenario on Mud about a guy that surfaces every few years doing this. I don't recall his name, but he screws a bunch of people hard, then evaporates. Maybe some of the old timers can chime in on that.

Document, document, document.

Unfortunately, I don't see you getting out of this for under $10K.

If you have the resources to do it, great! However, if you chose the lowest bidder over Slee for a $200 difference, I don't believe you have those kind of resources.

Obviously you did not do any research up front on this"company".

Again , I'm sorry for your loss.
 
Wow, they went to a bunch of work to mess that up!:mad: Lifting an 80 is well sorted, and pretty easy to do correctly.
 
More pix would be helpful, like where the shocks attach(ed), anywhere they welded, made stuff.
 
This should be added to the FAQ when choosing a lift and what the consequences are of not correctly researching a lift.

There was another thread on here of basically the same lift. However the pictures are gone. If you lucky he has s***ty welds and you can bang those mounts off with a hammer.
 
This should be added to the FAQ when choosing a lift and what the consequences are of not correctly researching a lift.

There was another thread on here of basically the same lift. However the pictures are gone. If you lucky he has s***ty welds and you can bang those mounts off with a hammer.
Accept that he first cut off the dome shaped spring mounts. That's the whole thing that really screwed me up. He made those definitive adjustments prior to giving me my full quote/plan and go ahead!
 
Accept that he first cut off the dome shaped spring mounts. That's the whole thing that really screwed me up. He made those definitive adjustments prior to giving me my full quote/plan and go ahead!


I hear you. I'm not poking you. You might be able to find coil buckets for a jeep that can be used. Or like said buy some used housings and have them swapped over.
 
Accept that he first cut off the dome shaped spring mounts. That's the whole thing that really screwed me up. He made those definitive adjustments prior to giving me my full quote/plan and go ahead!

It looks like the spring perches are still there, just junk welded to them? Even if they are too butchered to be saved, wouldn't be all of that to replace them.
 
It looks like the spring perches are still there, just junk welded to them? Even if they are too butchered to be saved, wouldn't be all of that to replace them.
The platform is there, the dome portion of the platform was cut off. I do have access to axles for pretty cheap from a buddy who has both a 94 and a 96 land cruiser who I could get parts from.
 
It looks like the spring perches are still there, just junk welded to them? Even if they are too butchered to be saved, wouldn't be all of that to replace them.
I'm thinking the springs are likely the correct height, the shocks definitely need to be replaced. It does seem that the spring platforms could hold up just fine, replace the shocks, and then, it would be a matter of correcting any issues with alignment/geometry to correct the drive shaft (with new u joints), and secure up the steering with new tie-rods? Yes? If the platforms hold up (which I did do charleau gap with them holding up North of Tucson), the springs are fine, doesn't it seem that there should be a way to basically finish the job? I know others feel it would be best to start over, but, if the springs work just fine, the platforms hold, wouldn't it be best (at least cost effective) to correct alignment vs. starting over?
 
You're not going to easily correct alignment and your tie Rod has one nut on each side so saying 2 out of 4 bolts broke off leaves me to believe....and I mean this in the nicest way...that you don't know enough to make a logical judgment call. If you don't know basic terminology and can't properly convey what is broken and what was done etc... You shouldn't be making safety judgments about that turds work. At a minimum you need to replace the spring mount hats and get rid of those pipe perches. If you can't get a set of hats I will cut some off and send them to you. You're not just puting yourself in danger by "just finishing the job" you're putting anyone else on the road with you or around you in danger. The spring perches are sheet metal, they aren't meant to have a lever welded to them all the force going through those springs leverage those janky platforms back and forth which will someday cause massive failure. Same as breaking a coat hanger. I know you just want it done, but that's not the attitude to have when it comes to yours and others safety. Take it to a reputable shop, have them repair it and SUE that guy for the original job plus having it fixed properly.
 
Back
Top Bottom