80 Series 4" Lift Disaster Help... (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jan 4, 2015
Threads
34
Messages
200
Location
Tucson, AZ
So, I had a guy Gene of Sonoran Desert Offroad adjust my vehicle. I had him do a 4 inch lift along with redo the tie-rod boots behind both front wheels (as well as a new muffler which is unrelated to this post). From the lift, I'm experiencing a significant pull to the right when I let off the gas, as well as extensive transmission fluid leaks from the center differential (I'm not very technical myself, but I'm referring to the center of the truck with the drive train pipes leading to the axles). I was riding trails (but easy level trails) when one of the four bolts on the bottom of the front right tie-rod boot completely broke off, and 2 others were loose (so, therefore, as I was driving downhill out of the mountains, my front right tire was doing it's own thing. I was lucky to find someone to tighten up the 2 loose bolts and that got me on my way until I found another shop to drill out the broken bolt piece and put in a new bolt. I'm assuming my angles are way off to cause the steering issues (oh yes, I also have a bad grind when I let off the gas going over about 50 mph...which Gene stated wasn't a big deal, and only an issue if it happens when you speed up)...as well as angle issues with the height of the lift pertaining to the center differential and the transmission fluid leak which I'm having to get under the truck every 500 miles or so to pump transmission fluid into the center diff.

So, my first point of this post is to warn anyone who is considering utilizing Gene of Desert Sonoran Offroad in Sahuarita, AZ. I additionally had received a quote from Slee Offroad in Golden, CO for $1200, and expressed to Gene that if I was going to have him do the work, I wasn't willing to pay over $1000. Next thing I know, he cut into the sheet metal domes on top of the axles to build custom lift platforms without ever giving me a full quote, only lying to me that he thought he could get it done for $700-$800...next thing I know, I get an invoice from him for $1850 for the lift. I obviously should have gone to someone else, but had moved back to Tucson vs. being in Denver anymore. I paid him a total of $5K for all the work.

So, my next points/questions are, if you've done a 4 inch lift on an 80, what types of things did you have done outside of the norm (diff drop kit type things, adjustments to make sure axles are at proper angles, should drop pins be used to help the tie-rod bars, etc.) to make sure everything was secure and proper. I'm additionally planning on buying tie-rods (cross bars), so if you have any recommendations there in terms of product, that would be helpful. On the tie-rod boots, any recommendations of after market parts or efforts which I should do to ensure that they'll hold up better? That's all I can think of, but, any and all advice outside of what I've mentioned would be a huge help as I'm not technical myself and relying on others to do the work for me.

I currently have left it with Trail Boss in Tucson, AZ for them to analyze and put together a quote for me of what it will take to clear things up as the other 2 shops I spoke with in town felt they would not be able to help as 4 Wheel Parts and Desert Rat in Tucson seem to be more capable of putting on kits, but nothing to do with custom. They've now had it since before Thanksgiving, and twice now after conversations with their tech, he has told me he has to rethink things and get back to me...

Sad and frustrated for sure as I love my truck and want to get things taken care of...thanks for any help/guidance you can provide!!! Dan

I have some photos of the center diff & tie-rod boot if that would help. I may have others of the tie-rods, but likely would have to get photos taken of it if that would help on recommendations.
 
Dan, well that just sucks. Sorry man.

Is this the same group formerly known as sonoran steel that ruined their own rep here years ago i wonder ? Seems they do much better sticking to the 4 runner world.

I think it would help to list bullet style perhaps what all was actually done. What parts and brands were used? Along with that make sure you study enough to use proper terminoligy to help folks get you the right answers.

Should be plenty of capable shops in AZ to help. How far is chandler? I beleive @Tools R Us us and @inkpot are there and well know and trusted sources of help. If not then check with copper state cruisers (the AZ clubhouse) for some local recomendations or friendly help.
AZ- Copper State Cruisers

What did he cut on axles? The spring pads? Wtf?!?

Did you get lift springs and shocks or did he hack up some sort of ghetto spacer for your stock springs. If the latter then lets just stop here as he obviosly F'd something up and has no clue what he is doing..... nor the liability he has created. How long ago was the work and did you use a credit card?

The lift should not cause any sort of transfer case leak at all. Any other related work done here? If its been many miles since the work and the shafts had a horrible vibe it could be conceivable it wrecked an output shaft bearing on the tcase but unlikely. Can you clean it up and pinpoint a source of the leak?

Howd you get from 1800 to 5 grand in work!?! That's a hell of a muffler.

The grrrrr or vibration is well documented here. 4" will cause driveline vibrations. Yours sounds like ujoints now operating at a different and extreme angle. New ujoints may work or it might require a double cardan shaft.

Was any castor correction added? What type? No castor correction will cause the steering and wandering issues you describe.

Sounds like he goobered up the tie rod ends if it broke on first trip out. wrong size or too tight perhaps?

Also sounds like he may not have aligned it properly after the TRE swap and that could be causing your pulling

You got so much going on it sounds worthwhile to find an 80 specific source of knowledge and let them help you sort it out.

Best of luck.

4" lift here. Nothing out of ordinary. All standard fare discussed here countless times

4" springs
longer shocks to match
Castor correction plates (adjust pinion angle)
Panhard bar to center axle but ran many thousands of miles without.
Nothing different with tie rod ends or attachment method


As for the tie rods id go new OEM or used. New tie rod ends can be had from cruiser outfitters in utah. 555 ends are good quality.
 
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I'm sorry for your loss. Sleep would have been THE place to take it and there would have been NO surprises. Sleep specializes in these.

The first shop should not have had to cut ANYTHING.

Look here on the forum for shops in that area. Also contact members of the local clubs listed at the top of the forum.

Good luck.
 
Thank you for your thoughtful response, I'll respond in color to your comments questions below...

Dan, well that just sucks. Sorry man.

Is this the same group formerly known as sonoran steel that ruined their own rep here years ago i wonder ? Seems they do much better sticking to the 4 runner world. - I don't believe so.

I think it would help to list bullet style perhaps what all was actually done. What parts and brands were used? Along with that make sure you study enough to use proper terminology to help folks get you the right answers.

Should be plenty of capable shops in AZ to help. How far is chandler (chandler is not too far, I'll definitely give your recommendations a call and chat through it with them!? I beleive @Tools R Us us and @inkpot are there and well know and trusted sources of help. If not then check with copper state cruisers (the AZ clubhouse) for some local recomendations or friendly help.
AZ- Copper State Cruisers

What did he cut on axles? The spring pads? Wtf?!? Yes, sliced them off without ever getting my approval... After he made pretty massive adjustments without giving me a quote first (wtf?!?!), I started recording every conversation with him. Trust me, the intent is to get it done right and then sue him for damages and fraud, and I have him admitting to lying and deceiving on audio recordings which in the state of AZ is admissible in court.

Did you get lift springs and shocks or did he hack up some sort of ghetto spacer for your stock springs. If the latter then lets just stop here as he obviosly F'd something up and has no clue what he is doing..... nor the liability he has created. How long ago was the work and did you use a credit card? Probably too long ago to do a charge back on the card, and I only paid a portion of it on credit card, the rest debit card. He did buy new springs and shocks, I can get the brand of the shocks, no idea what the springs were, but they are not stock. I got it back in probably late Aug early Sep and took a month trip in Oct, which is when I had all my issues...on the road, costing me another $300 plus to keep me going. When I got back in town, I took it to Desert Rat in Tucson first who had it for a couple of weeks, who decided they couldn't help, and recommended their fabrication shop, who said I needed a land cruiser specialist, and then Desert Rat gave me the recommendation of Trail Boss.

The lift should not cause any sort of transfer case leak at all. Any other related work done here? If its been many miles since the work and the shafts had a horrible vibe it could be conceivable it wrecked an output shaft bearing on the tcase but unlikely. Can you clean it up and pinpoint a source of the leak? I don't have the truck currently, but Trail Boss has been inspecting, so I may be able to find out more specifics from them. I drove I'd say less than 1,000 miles before I noticed the transmission fluid leaking. I got it filled, and made it from Indianapolis to Mississippi, and then the transmission started slipping when I pumped more transmission fluid in again, then did it every 500 miles or so until I got back to Tucson.

Howd you get from 1800 to 5 grand in work!?! That's a hell of a muffler. - Haha. I paid $200 or so for the Y-Pipe coming off the block for the exhaust. I thought it came with 1 catalytic converter, but he stated it didn't, so he made the back end portion, put on a muffler which I have no idea what type, and bought 2 catalytic converters (he charged me around $800 for all), and from the other jobs I've seen on here, around $1K is what others seemed to be paying for parts/labor...so I wasn't stressing that too much. HOWEVER, he started buying components, and putting them on the truck without asking me!!! Haha This guy was a total @ss and deceptive. He put on new calipers, stating my others were cracked and needed replaced, but then didn't have my old ones anymore to show. He also put on ceramic brake pads, which I finally caved on. At this point, I came down on him pretty hard telling him I would not pay for anything further without full signed approval. I felt soooo incredibly stuck as my truck was in pieces, and he had cut into sheet metal and I felt trapped. Plus, he also promised lifetime warranty on parts/labor, and with him doing such a custom job (without permission), I didn't feel like I had any option but to let him finish up the lift as that was the last thing to wrap up at this point.

The grrrrr or vibration is well documented here. 4" will cause driveline vibrations. Yours sounds like ujoints now operating at a different and extreme angle. New ujoints may work or it might require a double cardan shaft. - Just looked up the double cardan shaft, and I think you may be on to something here. Trail boss pointed out how the axles were not aligned due to the height, and pointed out how the axle could be shifted by lengthening the drop down pin/pipe to the bars that come off the front axle...your suggestion may be a good solution. (again, sorry for not being as technical...trying to explain as straight forward as I can!!!)

Was any castor correction added? What type? No castor correction will cause the steering and wandering issues you describe. - I do not believe so.

Sounds like he goobered up the tie rod ends if it broke on first trip out. wrong size or too tight perhaps?

Also sounds like he may not have aligned it properly after the TRE swap and that could be causing your pulling

You got so much going on it sounds worthwhile to find an 80 specific source of knowledge and let them help you sort it out.

Best of luck.

4" lift here. Nothing out of ordinary. All standard fare discussed here countless times

4" springs
longer shocks to match - Oh yes, this is one thing Trail Boss mentioned...my shocks have come out twice now, and they stated he simply put on too short of shocks...ARGH...almost funny how much I got screwed...He did move locations back to his house from a shop he had, so, I think I have a good case against the guy, so long as he didn't fully shut down his LLC & if he did, the courts won't let me sue him personally.
Castor correction plates (adjust pinion angle)
Panhard bar to center axle but ran many thousands of miles without.
Nothing different with tie rod ends or attachment method


As for the tie rods id go new OEM or used. New tie rod ends can be had from cruiser outfitters in utah. 555 ends are good quality.

Again, thank you so very much for your thoughtful response, it's a great help!!!
 
Let's see some pics of lift and what they cut, how did they lift the front? If you wanna come to grand junction colo I'll help ya fix it all, tell ya what to buy and I'll put it on for ya, but for 4 inch lift all ya need is springs shocks castor correction maybe drive shaft , could do rear links to correct angles, panga rds if ya want, maybe he didn't tighten your tie rods or used wrong ones?
 
Here's a pic of the back platform he built. Instead of having the spring platform, he cut off the dome piece of that and put a thick cylinder pipe in the hole which he welded and then welded a circular ring on the pipe as a new platform for the springs. The front was done similarly. Oh yes, this is also the first time the suspension fell out...HA


IMG_4356_zpsgl29qhxy.jpg
 
Here's the best picture I have of where the transmission fluid is leaking, but this is from the passenger side of the truck looking toward the rear, and again, you can see the platforms he build on the back axle for the springs. The bolt to unscrew and pump transmission fluid in is on the driver side of the truck.


IMG_4474_zpsmnrv4dh2.jpg
 
Here's another pic of the platform he built for the back a little more close up, but a little dark:

IMG_4360_zpswxgw5r6l.jpg
 
Are your shocks bent? You could have wallard out your steering arms if tierod end was banging around and maybe messed up the wheel bearings when the rod end broke
 
Boss Trial in Tucson stated they think the shocks he bought were just too short. They fell out this time after a good trail, but, after they fixed them and made some adjustments to make them more secure, they completely broke without even doing any difficult or even medium trails.
 
OMFG.

That's all I can say.

Please take this guy to the cleaners and see what can be done to prevent him from having a business again.

OMFG.
 
Here's another pic of the platform he built for the back a little more close up, but a little dark:

IMG_4360_zpswxgw5r6l.jpg
That's just stupid, I hope whoever did this doesn't reproduce, get your rig to a capable shop as mentioned above, let them straighten it out and enjoy it. I hope you can recoup what you lost..... best of luck!!
 
I would completely trust Tools R Us and inkpot if you decide to go that route.
 
Uuuhhh. Haha.

This may sound harsh or blunt or direct, but a guy like you who (self-admittedly) knows nothing about modifying land cruisers should not be shopping around and using the lowest-bidder.

If you want to keep that Cruiser you need to call Slee or a locally recommended shop (warn them before you bring it in so the techs don't have heart-attacks when they see what a complete clusterf**k you have underneath) and say "Please fix this. I should have never used the low bidder. I'm sorry."

Then try to get some recourse from those dumbasses at Sonoran Desert Offroad. That is, potentially, the most ghetto way of lifting an 80 4" that I've ever seen. Especially since it would have been so much cheaper and easier to stick a 4" spring in there....
 
The link below is probably one of the nicest, most complete kits you can get for an 80 series. It's so well though out a stoned high-schooler at a local tire shop could install it. It's not "cheap" up front, but you sure save a whooooole lot of money down the road.

Slee - Toyota 80 Series Toyota Land Cruiser Suspension
 
That guy is an idiot. 4" lift is simply new springs and shocks (and castor correction maybe a front drive shaft)--everything should bolt up. Instead he completely molested the spring mounting hardware on the axles so he could probably re-use your existing springs (because more labor= more money for him vs. buying parts). Moreover, the shocks should not come loose or break like that for any reason. Even if mis-matched to the lift, they should still be properly attached to the truck--my guess is he didn't bother securing the top nut.

I would leave yelp, craigslist and google+ reviews for this guy, and give the BBB a call. He simply saw you for a sucker and fawked up your truck so he could properly rob you.
 
Good God that is the raunchiest, most ghetto-fab lift job I have seen on this site. Not to mention on an FJ80 where you could get proper lift springs for a few hundred bucks. This is something I'd expect to see in the Craiglist hall of shame. That mouth-breather should be ashamed to run a shop. Hope you get it resolved. He should pay to make the truck right again.
 

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