78 fj intro (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Mar 8, 2017
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4
Messages
24
Location
Eastern pa
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secured my 1978 fj40 today. Brought it home to pa from south jersey, only 44k miles and less rust than I was expecting. Everything work as it should and I'm hoping to get if fixed up and painted by the end of the summer. Enjoy pics!
 
As for the color I doubt it will stay yellow.
I'm right below the town of stroudsburg pa. Along the deleware
 
New progress. Dug the fj out of the snow yesterday after it got buried by the big storm. Much to my dismay the 4wd would not work, so after dissassembling the hubs and cleaning / relubing I was on to the rear breaks. I went with new centric brand wheel cylinders. The old one were frozen fast. The drums came off eventually with the aide of a hammer and chisel, no surprise since the fj Hadn't moved for 10 years prior. Wheels spun nice and free when the task was accomplished however once it was on the ground something is still sticking hard in reverse. I didn't get a chance to bleed or Adjust anything yet however I suspect the parking break. That will be a project for another day, as well as a new slave cylinder that is becoming increasingly leaky.

On a side note why the drums are painted the sea foam- color they are is beyond me but painting was not in the time budget the last few days

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Ok so I was unable to get my 40 to roll freely IN GEAR as in if you are driving and push the clutch it feels as if the breaks are dragging hard, the rear tires spin free, parking break is not stuck, and transfer case is fine. It seems whatever is tight is in the transmission. It will roll in neutral. looking for any advice here. all I can think is the transmission has something tight. its important to note that up until I purchased it sat in a parking lot in new jersey for 10 years and never moved. I changed the gear oil yesterday (old oil was clean) I am hoping it will free up if it is driven around some. Thanks in advance!
 
Welcome! I also vote for keeping her Mustard Yellow but it is you rig and I am biased as I have a '78 as well. Appears pretty solid
 
Thanks for the interest guys, as for the yellow maybe it will grow on me but I will most likely do a stock color for this resto. And Brian, yes! it does run actually quite well it has an aftermarket ignition system other than that its mostly stock. The issue isn't as bad moving forward and seems to ease up after moving for a minute you cannot hear or feel anything abnormal when driving and it doesn't seem to take any extra power to movie it however when backing into the shop for example it stops as soon as you push the clutch in.
 
is there something to do with 4lo that would make it grab? I believe it does it in 2hi as well however I do move it in 4lo with the hubs unlocked when in the shop
 
It definately won't roll as easy when the transfer case has been engaged in 4lo. The higher the gear it's in the easier it will be to push.

When I am doing valve adjustments I follow FJ40Jim's method. Put the transfer in 4hi and the transmission in 4th gear to move #1 & #6 pistons to TDC.
 
to clarify when moving in reverse and the clutch pushed in it stops as if someone is on the breaks. enough to noticeably make the front end come up slightly (and for anyone unsuspecting to slam their face into the door frame while looking back :bang:)
 
Oh wow. That's not normal.

I know you said your rear wheels spin freely. One thing I wondered about is when you added new rear cylinders did you put the tall side of the adjuster ramp on the perimeter. The ramps should slope so that they encourage the shoes remain centered. Long shot but something to double check if you run out if idea's.

I believe FJ40Jim helped JDC1 on his build thread on the ramp issue
 
yes ramps are sloping in, luckily I read the thread your speaking of while my drums were still off. I believe its narrowed down to transmission, it will roll with trans in neutral, with trans in gear and transfer in neutral, but not with trans in gear clutch in, tested with vehicle running
 
You mentioned your slave cyldr was leaking. My guess is the clutch is not totally releasing.
 
pb4ugo, my understanding would be that if the vehicle is running and the clutch isn't fully disengaged it would continue to try moving, not come to an abrupt stop? However I have a new slave that will be installed within the next few days hopefully, I need to bleed the breaks a little better and then I will try driving it a little more and see if anything eases up.
 

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