Are you doing a machined 2WD output shaft to the Toyota t-case? Or a spud shaft?
Build 75 Series cab on 80 series chassis with Cummins 6BT
- Thread starter Mr Cimarron
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Are you doing a machined 2WD output shaft to the Toyota t-case? Or a spud shaft?
- Thread starter
- #102
Machined 2WD output shaft.
I'm a little late to the conversation, but I totally agree. Although now I'm getting fat, so the AC had to get recharged last summer in the 80.
Also very much agree with this build. Keep up the good work.
- Thread starter
- #104
Well I managed to do a bit of work yesterday. Mainly just shuffling around vehicles. The LX went on the trailer, using the 80’s winch, and now heads to the ranch so I can use our tractor to remove the body. Then moved the knocking BJ40 to where the LX was then moved the 75 body into the garage.
I also am thinking way ahead and sprayed a few paint samples on the body. Kubota orange and excavator blue for the outside and dark grey for fleshing up the interior plastic. Since it will be a everyday truck that sees farm use I wanted to go with colors similar to agriculture equipment and I have always liked Kubota colors.
Don’t laugh at my one non painted wheel on the Ford. I purposely have it that way to make the Ford look like s*** because I hate it so much. Can’t wait to send it packing when the 75 is done. The IH 7.3 is a great engine in an awful engineered truck.
I also am thinking way ahead and sprayed a few paint samples on the body. Kubota orange and excavator blue for the outside and dark grey for fleshing up the interior plastic. Since it will be a everyday truck that sees farm use I wanted to go with colors similar to agriculture equipment and I have always liked Kubota colors.
Don’t laugh at my one non painted wheel on the Ford. I purposely have it that way to make the Ford look like s*** because I hate it so much. Can’t wait to send it packing when the 75 is done. The IH 7.3 is a great engine in an awful engineered truck.
lckarl
SILVER Star
I don't know if you have ever heard the term chromatic scintillation, but that is what is happening with the orange on the gray background. Basically that gray is making that already bright orange pop even more!
- Thread starter
- #106
I want people to wonder what that load ugly orange thing driving down the road is.
lckarl
SILVER Star
Maybe you should plan on painting the hood gray so you don't have to wear sunglasses every time you drive it!
And for everyone looking at it from the outside, well I guess that will just be their problem if they get blinded. They
do have the option to look away after all!
And for everyone looking at it from the outside, well I guess that will just be their problem if they get blinded. They
do have the option to look away after all!
- Thread starter
- #108
The city of Austin uses orange trucks now and I don't have any issues looking at them. I will ask the workers when I see them if they have issues with sun glare on the hood but I doubt it.
GO BRONCOS!
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- #111
Big happening today. Finally got around to removing the LX body. Used our farm tractor using a heavy duty strap which ended up denting the s*** out the roof above the second row doors. Oh well. Should start getting the build back on track.
lckarl
SILVER Star
That frame looks like it is nice and clean, as in little to no rust! That always makes for a more enjoyable project!
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- #113
It was a California truck with 189K. It has some surface rust from not moving since 2012 but overall very nice.
- Thread starter
- #114
Pulled trans and transfer case from frame and power washed. It’s ready to move into garage and attemp to mount the cab. Not really sure how I’m going to tackle it yet. One thing I know I have to do is fix the rear driver side body mount on the cab. It is rotted out.
Tomorrow hopefully I will at least lay the cab on frame to see what I’m up against.
Tomorrow hopefully I will at least lay the cab on frame to see what I’m up against.
Nice bumper Cim
- Thread starter
- #116
Cab sitting on frame for measuring. Seems like the rear cab mount will work if I weld up the hole on the body and redrill. Front mount will need a new bracket of some sort. Inner fender will need cutting due to shock tower and I won’t be able to see how it will mount to the front until that is done. Would love to know and see how others have done all this. I know I’m not the first.
It seems like I can fit a 6 1/2’ flat bed on the rear without stretching the frame.
It seems like I can fit a 6 1/2’ flat bed on the rear without stretching the frame.
- Thread starter
- #118
Doesn't seem like I have done much lately. I did get some more parts rolling in from @beno, @cruiseroutfit, @NLXTACY, and @joekatana. My plan is to rebuild the front end and get all the front suspension in before the engine drops in which hopefully is in the next week or so. Figured it would be easier to get rid of surface rust and paint it while its wide open to work in.
TT front axle rebuild kit
TT early birf coming once back in stock
Slee extended brake lines along with axle to caliper lines
upgraded knuckle studs
Trail Gear spindle nuts. I like these better than Toyota star washers.
Napa front calipers
Stop Tech slotted rotors
OME 4" comp springs
Dobinsons front adjustable track bar
80 series Aisin hubs
new TREs
TT front axle rebuild kit
TT early birf coming once back in stock
Slee extended brake lines along with axle to caliper lines
upgraded knuckle studs
Trail Gear spindle nuts. I like these better than Toyota star washers.
Napa front calipers
Stop Tech slotted rotors
OME 4" comp springs
Dobinsons front adjustable track bar
80 series Aisin hubs
new TREs
- Thread starter
- #119
If you are wondering a 70 series hood will transport nicely in the back of an 80. The only piece now that is needed to make a complete body is a roof which I will be getting new unless a used one pops up.
