72 FJ40 Chevota Build

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Love your work! The sill is especially nice, but I have a question. How do you intend to keep water and such out of the sill channel once you mount stuff to the frame? Will you weld shut the openings?

Cheers!
 
I have been dredging around in my head for a solution and the only thing I come up with is sheetmetal and RTV to cover the openings. :confused:
Any suggestions would be welcome.
 
RTV, a screw/pop rivet, and some sheet metal would be a good start. I'd drill some drain holes in the bottom to ensure there is somewhere for water to get out.

I originally had mine with no access holes, and then cut a 1.5 inch hole from the top (so I could replace the frame) which I then filled with a body plug.
 
Stepped out for a minute and now its 2 years later. Got side tracked building a CNC Router with a Laser attachment. IMG_2784.webp
Why you ask. Cause it was easier than trying to figure out what model year brake booster options I had to choose from. One post says booster fits good but doesn't specify the MC. Another calls out a good MC but not the booster. Maybe its ADD that keeps me from putting 2 and 2 together. I do searches then drill into the posts. The information is there, I just cannot correlate it into a model year and part number I can go buy. I'm not interested in $300 boosters. Just want to get her back on the road. . . IMG_2782.webp

I have the stock booster installed but would prefer to upgrade to get some off the shelf part. Don't want to be stuck in some town looking for a 1972 brake booster after a failure. Digging through the Mud forums I zeroed in on a MC from 86-92 Supra non-ABS. Bolt pattern is good, just needs a spacer between it and the booster. IMG_2785.webp That was before I stepped out.

Been walking past my girl for 2 years and want to get her done.

Short of going to autozone and ordering all the possible Toyota boosters they have and trying to fit them in, I'm out ideas.

It may be easier than this but I'm not seeing it. We need help. If you don't do it for me at least do for her.

IMG_2786.webp
 
Found a dual diaphragm booster that fits. Amazon happened to have it for $200 (no core required). IMG_2875.webp IMG_2876.webp The booster does hit the clutch master cylinder bolt. IMG_2877.webp Added washers to the studs to space it out. IMG_2880.webp This gave a clearance like this. IMG_2881.webp Should work fine.
 
Test fit my seats to see how to lay out the seat support frame.
DSCN3165.webp DSCN3166.webp
 
Built the drivers seat frame. Completed the passengers frame just need the front attachment feet.
Drivers Seat Frame DSCN3195.webp
 
Thanks SBG. My welds get messy when I get in a hurry and don't prep enough to get in a good position. As long as they burn in deep they'll hold.
 
Got the pass seat frame finished last night. Seat Frame Pass DSCN3198.webp

Fit the seats on the frames.
Seats Installed DSCN3202.webp
Seat Driver Under IMG_2919.webp
Seats Installed DSCN3205.webp
Seats installed DSCN3204.webp
 
Full FJ40 Cage layout.webp

Starting to layout my Jackson Cage for welding and have some questions about the front post locations. I want to push them as far forward and toward the doors as possible. Here are some shots with the door and windshield. Do you see anything wrong with the placement or anything I should watch out for? Don't want to screw it up with interference issues later. Thanks for your help.

Drv Post w door.webpDrv Post w door 1.webp Drv Post w door 2.webp Drv Post w door 3.webp
Don't know why they are sideways. Look fine on the computer.
 
starting with post 465
FJ4Overland extreme

that shows my thought processes then install of the same cage.

on thing you do have to consider is how you're going to lower the front window with the cage in place. Also, I welded plates under the body to tie the front-most and the next body mount together. And, I (as you'll see in my posts) notched the plates to go around the door-post and dash support. Last of all, you will need a longer drill bit because one of the holes has to be drilled through the bottom of the cowl-brace-cross-member.
 
Also needed to remove the 1/2" of bondo the PO put on the passenger door.PO and Bondo.webp PO Bondo Gone.webp
 
Thanks SBG, That's the stuff I need to know.
 
Sub'n in on this beauty in the making.

As for the front hoop clearance, just remember that the screw in windshield tightener will suck that windshield back and they do jiggle at high speed bumpy roads. Plus, when the hard top is coming on and off, there is at least one screw in each top corner that you will need to access from the inside, and depending on how yours came apart there might be one on above the door too.

So, where's the first trip going to be?
 
Thanks PSReno,
The windshield right now doesn't have a bottom gasket so it should be as far back as it gets. I'll check on the top screws, don't plan on the hard top but you never know. By the time I get er done this global warming may be over.

Local stuff in so cal Big Bear Holcomb valley.
 
Still laying out the cage. Got side tracked building a smoker. Cut the half doors this morning.image.webpimage.webp
image.webp


image.webp
 
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