Still impressive. If I only took pictures of my good welds, there would not be a lot of pictures....
72 FJ40 Chevota Build
- Thread starter Tokamak
- Start date
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Love your work! The sill is especially nice, but I have a question. How do you intend to keep water and such out of the sill channel once you mount stuff to the frame? Will you weld shut the openings?
Cheers!
Cheers!
- Thread starter
- #83
I have been dredging around in my head for a solution and the only thing I come up with is sheetmetal and RTV to cover the openings. 
Any suggestions would be welcome.
Any suggestions would be welcome.
RTV, a screw/pop rivet, and some sheet metal would be a good start. I'd drill some drain holes in the bottom to ensure there is somewhere for water to get out.
I originally had mine with no access holes, and then cut a 1.5 inch hole from the top (so I could replace the frame) which I then filled with a body plug.
I originally had mine with no access holes, and then cut a 1.5 inch hole from the top (so I could replace the frame) which I then filled with a body plug.
- Thread starter
- #85
Stepped out for a minute and now its 2 years later. Got side tracked building a CNC Router with a Laser attachment.
Why you ask. Cause it was easier than trying to figure out what model year brake booster options I had to choose from. One post says booster fits good but doesn't specify the MC. Another calls out a good MC but not the booster. Maybe its ADD that keeps me from putting 2 and 2 together. I do searches then drill into the posts. The information is there, I just cannot correlate it into a model year and part number I can go buy. I'm not interested in $300 boosters. Just want to get her back on the road. . .
I have the stock booster installed but would prefer to upgrade to get some off the shelf part. Don't want to be stuck in some town looking for a 1972 brake booster after a failure. Digging through the Mud forums I zeroed in on a MC from 86-92 Supra non-ABS. Bolt pattern is good, just needs a spacer between it and the booster.
That was before I stepped out.
Been walking past my girl for 2 years and want to get her done.
Short of going to autozone and ordering all the possible Toyota boosters they have and trying to fit them in, I'm out ideas.
It may be easier than this but I'm not seeing it. We need help. If you don't do it for me at least do for her.
Why you ask. Cause it was easier than trying to figure out what model year brake booster options I had to choose from. One post says booster fits good but doesn't specify the MC. Another calls out a good MC but not the booster. Maybe its ADD that keeps me from putting 2 and 2 together. I do searches then drill into the posts. The information is there, I just cannot correlate it into a model year and part number I can go buy. I'm not interested in $300 boosters. Just want to get her back on the road. . .
I have the stock booster installed but would prefer to upgrade to get some off the shelf part. Don't want to be stuck in some town looking for a 1972 brake booster after a failure. Digging through the Mud forums I zeroed in on a MC from 86-92 Supra non-ABS. Bolt pattern is good, just needs a spacer between it and the booster.
That was before I stepped out.Been walking past my girl for 2 years and want to get her done.
Short of going to autozone and ordering all the possible Toyota boosters they have and trying to fit them in, I'm out ideas.
It may be easier than this but I'm not seeing it. We need help. If you don't do it for me at least do for her.
- Thread starter
- #87
Test fit my seats to see how to lay out the seat support frame.
- Thread starter
- #88
Built the drivers seat frame. Completed the passengers frame just need the front attachment feet.
I laugh at the ones that get all spun up about welds... you've done nice work, and continue to do nice work.
- Thread starter
- #90
Thanks SBG. My welds get messy when I get in a hurry and don't prep enough to get in a good position. As long as they burn in deep they'll hold.
no substitute for good prep, but the welds but they don't have to be pretty to be solid.
- Thread starter
- #92
Got the pass seat frame finished last night. 
Fit the seats on the frames.
Fit the seats on the frames.
- Thread starter
- #93
Starting to layout my Jackson Cage for welding and have some questions about the front post locations. I want to push them as far forward and toward the doors as possible. Here are some shots with the door and windshield. Do you see anything wrong with the placement or anything I should watch out for? Don't want to screw it up with interference issues later. Thanks for your help.
Don't know why they are sideways. Look fine on the computer.
starting with post 465
FJ4Overland extreme
that shows my thought processes then install of the same cage.
on thing you do have to consider is how you're going to lower the front window with the cage in place. Also, I welded plates under the body to tie the front-most and the next body mount together. And, I (as you'll see in my posts) notched the plates to go around the door-post and dash support. Last of all, you will need a longer drill bit because one of the holes has to be drilled through the bottom of the cowl-brace-cross-member.
FJ4Overland extreme
that shows my thought processes then install of the same cage.
on thing you do have to consider is how you're going to lower the front window with the cage in place. Also, I welded plates under the body to tie the front-most and the next body mount together. And, I (as you'll see in my posts) notched the plates to go around the door-post and dash support. Last of all, you will need a longer drill bit because one of the holes has to be drilled through the bottom of the cowl-brace-cross-member.
- Thread starter
- #95
Also needed to remove the 1/2" of bondo the PO put on the passenger door.
- Thread starter
- #96
Thanks SBG, That's the stuff I need to know.
It's why I post... that and give Mace something to edit.
Sub'n in on this beauty in the making.
As for the front hoop clearance, just remember that the screw in windshield tightener will suck that windshield back and they do jiggle at high speed bumpy roads. Plus, when the hard top is coming on and off, there is at least one screw in each top corner that you will need to access from the inside, and depending on how yours came apart there might be one on above the door too.
So, where's the first trip going to be?
As for the front hoop clearance, just remember that the screw in windshield tightener will suck that windshield back and they do jiggle at high speed bumpy roads. Plus, when the hard top is coming on and off, there is at least one screw in each top corner that you will need to access from the inside, and depending on how yours came apart there might be one on above the door too.
So, where's the first trip going to be?
- Thread starter
- #99
Thanks PSReno,
The windshield right now doesn't have a bottom gasket so it should be as far back as it gets. I'll check on the top screws, don't plan on the hard top but you never know. By the time I get er done this global warming may be over.
Local stuff in so cal Big Bear Holcomb valley.
The windshield right now doesn't have a bottom gasket so it should be as far back as it gets. I'll check on the top screws, don't plan on the hard top but you never know. By the time I get er done this global warming may be over.
Local stuff in so cal Big Bear Holcomb valley.
- Thread starter
- #100
Still laying out the cage. Got side tracked building a smoker. Cut the half doors this morning.
