72 FJ40 Chevota Build

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Cut out the center of the strap.
Cut the two halves together to flatten them out.
Fit check.
DSCN0855 one half done.webp
DSCN0865 flatten the set.webp
DSCN0867 fit check.webp
 
Drill and mount. Next is the firewall mount.
Some where along the line I offset the strap the wrong way and the column is a bout a 1/2 inch lower than planned. Wanted the top of cowl on the column to be right at the bottom of the instrument cluster. Crap!
DSCN0870 final fit 1.webp
DSCN0871 final fit 2.webp
 
Column Firewall Clamp

Got a piece of sched 40 2" pipe. Cut the weld to shrink the diameter. Welded it back together with a bolt sleeve. Then turned the inside to remove the excess bolt sleeve.
DSCN0774 Shrink diameter.webp
DSCN0798 Weld grind add clamp.webp
DSCN0801 trim the inside.webp
 
Cut the relief slots and slot stop holes and did a fit check.
Next is the firewall plate.
DSCN0803 cut the relief slot.webp
DSCN0805 fit check.webp
 
Xfer Case Linkage

Thanks Diskord.

Been working on my shift linkage. More or less followed what everyone else has been doing. The HI/LO shifting is very tight. I may need to add some length to the arm on top of the case or add some moly to the shifter ball. It won't pull out of a detent with a steady pull. I really have to yank on a 24" shift lever to get it to snap out.
DSCN0949 Linkage.webp
DSCN0953 Linkage 2.webp
DSCN0957 Linkage 3.webp
 
Fuel Tank and Sending Unit/Pump

I bought the J##P 15 gal rear tank and now it is time to make it work. My stock pump and sending unit is 13 1/2" long but the locking ring for the tank is the right diameter. I went in search of a 10" in-tank unit and found a '95 Chev Caprice was 10". The only problem is the locking ring is larger by an inch (4 1/2). Haven't found any standards for these mounts yet.

I figured in the mean time I could probably make the donor unit fit. I cut it down by 3 1/2" and all looks fine. All that is left to do is braze the return tube and I'll be done. Haven't done anything that prevents me from replacing the stock pump if needed.

If anyone knows of a 10" fuel pump/sending unit with the smaller dia (3 1/4 - 3 1/2") cover please let me know. I would much rather get a drop in unit if it needs to be replaced.
DSCN0958 long GM sender.webp
DSCN0960 cut the sender.webp
DSCN0963 10 in sender.webp
 
Still cutting, bending, and spending

Made a skid plate/mount and installed the rear tank.

Then started the exhaust.
DSCN1127 tank mount.webp
DSCN1132 tank mounted.webp
DSCN1173 Y-Pipe B Web.webp
 
Exhaust continued

Muffler from a 60-70s truck. should be fairly quiet.
DSCN1156 exhaust to flex.webp
DSCN1176 muffler web.webp
DSCN1181 front hanger and flex.webp
 
Toy Slave to AA BH Brackets

HCC, I don't make the front page often.

Cut up some 1/4" angle into brackets. Still need to make the rod and spring attachment.

IIRC AA didn't specify whitch position to use in the Arm (inner or outer) I set it up assuming the inner position for max throw.
DSCN1373 to fit AA BH.webp
DSCN1374 slave fitted.webp
DSCN1371 slave cylinder mounted.webp
 
Body back from blasting

Actually doesn't look as scary as it was before the blasting. Normal rot on the rear qtrs, rear sill, door sills, top of the rear fenders, rear fender spot weld dimples.
DSCN1385 web.webp
DSCN1386 web.webp
DSCN1387 web.webp
 
Body Sraightening Help

Can anyone tell me if my assumption is correct. The front gill panels on the tub are bent in toward each other. One is bent a lot more than the other. The bend is a curve (not a wrinkle) that I should be able to straighten. Just don't want to straighten something that should be curved.

I think they should be flat from the door hinge pillar and follow a straight line down the taper of the hood. And flat top to bottom. Is this correct?

Thanks for the help
Body ears.webp
 
Mine appear to be straight, but it is a 9/77 40. Maybe slightly different than a '72?

Cheers!
 
I think they should be flat from the door hinge pillar and follow a straight line down the taper of the hood. And flat top to bottom. Is this correct?

Thanks for the help

Mine are.

The angle is at the seam just behind the door. From that seam forward, the body is one plane to the front. That said, I am not certain what year my tub is. It does have the cowl vent on the inside, though it has been covered outside. It also does have the under seat tool box.

Bodyears_zpscd65549d.jpg
 
Just what I needed

Thanks for the responses. It probably doesn't matter what year, the lay of the basic body panels is most likely the same. The fj40 shape. Diskord, just what I needed. Thanks for extending the answer to the rear door post.

Now I need to hone my non existant body working skills. What's cool is, someone on this site has already been there done that and willing to provide support.
 
Tokamak,

By sight, those sections of the body on my '76 appear to be coplanar with the doors and rocker panels, and they appear to be straight. I didn't put a straight edge up against them though.

Really cool build you have going here!
 
Can anyone tell me if my assumption is correct. The front gill panels on the tub are bent in toward each other. One is bent a lot more than the other. The bend is a curve (not a wrinkle) that I should be able to straighten. Just don't want to straighten something that should be curved.

I think they should be flat from the door hinge pillar and follow a straight line down the taper of the hood. And flat top to bottom. Is this correct?

Thanks for the help

Mine were also bent inward. They're pretty vulnerable with the front clip removed and bend easily. The problem that it creates which you'll discover when you attach the front sheet metal is an oversized gap at the side apron. With the apron weatherstripping in place I had almost a 1/2" on one side. My tub is far from perfect so for the time being I just grabbed the panels and pulled them out to where they are close. When I'm ready to do some bodywork I'll get them to where they need to be with new weatherstripping.


:cheers:
 
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