#7 Freeborn Red bodywork and paint (Bean)
- Thread starter kelly saad
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- #42
Grind the edge all the way around where the skin bent and pinched, until you see it turn into 2 pieces. you will see a dark line start showing up as you grind. Then you know it is separating. Drill out the few spot welds on the inside with a spot weld drill bit. Mark a line where you want to cut the part off and cut the line on the outside with grinder (cutoff wheel) or plasma cutter. Last, peel off the lip on the inside and the skin piece on the outside. The trick is the first step: grind down the edge to release both sides. Hopefully that makes sense?
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- #43
Sandblasting day. Mostly cleaned up and ready to be rebuilt.
Grind the edge all the way around where the skin bent and pinched, until you see it turn into 2 pieces. you will see a dark line start showing up as you grind. Then you know it is separating. Drill out the few spot welds on the inside with a spot weld drill bit. Mark a line where you want to cut the part off and cut the line on the outside with grinder (cutoff wheel) or plasma cutter. Last, peel off the lip on the inside and the skin piece on the outside. The trick is the first step: grind down the edge to release both sides. Hopefully that makes sense?
Is it standard procedure for you to take off the seam sealer even when there's no rust present?
Also, do you reapply seam sealer at the rust removal process?
Thanks for sharing!
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- #45
The rust has commonly been present under the seam sealer and in the lower doors, tailgate and hatch (where seam sealer is located) that’s why I remove it and cut the lower door skins off. It’s probably not a standard procedure for other shops, I don’t really know. The way I approach these projects is to make sure the rust will not show up in a few years, and hopefully I am thorough enough. If I know it’s hiding somewhere that is common, then I remove seam sealer and cut off the part. After the new metal is welded on, then new seam sealer is applied and the inner metal is treated also, so everything is sealed up. Basically, these areas are failing, even if it’s not evident.
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- #46
Been busy making panels for 2 vehicles, Bean and another that I haven’t started a thread on yet. Almost done with these, and the new tools have made a big difference. In the photo, there are lower door skin patches, lower rear quarters, wheel arches, and rear rocker patches. I haven’t finished the tailgate or doglegs yet but they are cut.
I have an accurate template for all of these, so I will make a DXF file tonight and have a batch of these laser cut. They will etch where my bends are located too, so all I have to do it form the part once they are cut. Huge time saver on future vehicles.
I have an accurate template for all of these, so I will make a DXF file tonight and have a batch of these laser cut. They will etch where my bends are located too, so all I have to do it form the part once they are cut. Huge time saver on future vehicles.
Bravo! Way to take it to another level.
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- #48
Boo
I'm going to have nightmares now.
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- #50
Yay
whew I can sleep now
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- #53
About 30 min from cutout and fab, to welded in 
ok ok, maybe 40 min
ok ok, maybe 40 min
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- #54
Not too pretty but it’s an inner fender.
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- #55
Now the fender well piece, quarters and doglegs can be installed. I made the fender well and dog legs today. Bean is a little bit more cheerful today.
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- #57
Yes, Zinc primer or metal prep, which is zinc phosphate. Then seam sealer on the outside and a rust preventative coating on the inside.This is so great!
How do you keep the inner fender piece from rusting? Primer before you weld on the dogleg?
Nice work Kelly, Not too late to change colors!!
Change colors?! I didn’t know that was an option! 
Looking good. Freeborn Red kicks ass. dont ever change!