68 ohm resistor to replace stereo on NAV equipped LC and LX (3 Viewers)

[Matt Hamilton]

I'm not the first to do this, pucker5 posted a few days ago without pics. There was talk about it before, I just didn't try it. But I did today.

This comes from prius people and I found some other info from avalon forums also.
If you put a 68 ohm .5 watt resistor on the C plug pins 9 and 10, (blue and pink on 2006) everything works as it should and you can take the stereo out and put whatever you want in that slot.

The middle plug, C, has the tx wires, that's where the resistor goes. Blue and pink wires.
the other two plugs can stay unplugged. (A and B)

Obviously there are some conditions. The power antenna won't work. Put a fixed tundra antenna in. The rear seat audio won't work, delete it and put some UBS chargers in there. Steering wheel buttons won't work, Get the PAC universal for your aftermarket deck so they do. CD changer doesn't work also. That's it far as I know.

Personally I have a kenwood media shallow mount deck, a JL and a RF amp to two sets of speakers in the doors and a 10" punch sub in the back in it's own box.
I do not use the stock SUB wiring, sub box, or the HU stock wiring to the speakers at that connection.
I do use the stock speaker wires where they come out of the stock amp under the pass seat.
My stuff is wired as if it was a fresh install except using the speaker wiring at the output of the stock amp.

The point is that you can delete the OEM deck and all climate controls work the way they should.
I wish I had a female socket so I wouldn't have to cut the harness, but I did anyway and everything is fine.

I only use the display for back up cam. It never comes on except when in reverse. I put the climate screen on and took a pic so you guys could see. Everything works fine. I tested and measured before I cut the harness.

I'm going to alter the stock silver face to accept a ISO DIN HU maybe tomorrow.

Yes the bottom buttons work. defrost, rear AC etc.
View attachment 1370348 View attachment 1370349 View attachment 1370350 View attachment 1370351

For the novice electrician in the group, what does the 68 ohm resistor do here? Just curious how someone came up with wiring a resistor in here and why and why 68 ohms? I have a 2006 LC and I’m also looking to fix a audio head unit issue which is causing my front speakers to not work.

 

[jerryb]

i have two spare units from 2006. they aren't cheap though. It's better to follow that recent LX thread.
68 ohm comes from the service manual, it looks for 60-80 ohm on the wires and 68 is a common number to go buy, idk why its common. Everything talks to the headunit. without that they can't talk, and nothing works, sort of.

 

[Matt Hamilton]

i have two spare units from 2006. they aren't cheap though. It's better to follow that recent LX thread.
68 ohm comes from the service manual, it looks for 60-80 ohm on the wires and 68 is a common number to go buy, idk why its common. Everything talks to the headunit. without that they can't talk, and nothing works, sort of.

Thank you. That’s info I didn’t have. Most of my experience is on Land Rovers and now that my 2006 LC has this issue and I‘m searching for solutions. Everything on the head unit works except for the outputs to the front speakers. Figured a deck swap would be easy. Well, no! Not so easy. Still searching for fixes.

 

[Matt Hamilton]

Thank you. That’s info I didn’t have. Most of my experience is on Land Rovers and now that my 2006 LC has this issue and I‘m searching for solutions. Everything on the head unit works except for the outputs to the front speakers. Figured a deck swap would be easy. Well, no! Not so easy. Still searching for fixes.

Wish I had an electrical engineers knowledge and I could simply fix the existing decks outputs. Unfortunately, electronics is not my strong.

 

[jerryb]

maybe just the door wires are shot, but it'd be weird to have left and right to both go at the same time.

 

[jerryb]

if you can still hear the stock nav voice from the front left, but no music through both fronts, assume amp is bad. Someone out there fixes those. I don't have any extras to check with.

 

[nukegoat]

i have two spare units from 2006. they aren't cheap though. It's better to follow that recent LX thread.
68 ohm comes from the service manual, it looks for 60-80 ohm on the wires and 68 is a common number to go buy, idk why its common. Everything talks to the headunit. without that they can't talk, and nothing works, sort of.

Would adding this resistor and then replacing with the 'tesla' unit be the reason my steering wheel controls don't work or with the MFD and factory amp disconnected is this moot?

 

[jerryb]

the steering wheel buttons are directly connected to the stereo. if you disconnect that specific radio connector then they won't work. if you connect that specific connector with another male connector go between connection, like the tesla, and those wires are absent, then they won't work.

if the tesla has wires that match up with and keep on going through their harnesss, from the stock lc or lx connector then they made that harness adaptor, or jumper harness, with the intention that they should work as stock.
make sense?

 

[Matt Hamilton]

if you can still hear the stock nav voice from the front left, but no music through both fronts, assume amp is bad. Someone out there fixes those. I don't have any extras to check with.

So you bring up a good point. Here is what I know: the Nav voice, the beep sounds that occur when you select the temp controls, the speakerphone when talking vis Bluetooth don’t work since they all come out of the front speakers. But what you’re saying is that this could be an amp issue and not a head unit issue.

what would you do next? Besides checking the amp for good connections etc? Believe this isfoind under the frontpassenger seat.
And thank you again for the insight.

 

[Matt Hamilton]

So you bring up a good point. Here is what I know: the Nav voice, the beep sounds that occur when you select the temp controls, the speakerphone when talking vis Bluetooth don’t work since they all come out of the front speakers. But what you’re saying is that this could be an amp issue and not a head unit issue.

what would you do next? Besides checking the amp for good connections etc? Believe this isfoind under the frontpassenger seat.
And thank you again for the insight.

And to clarify I can hear through the front speakers but it is very faint and then sometimes there are screeches that sounds like five cats in a fight with a mongoose!!!!

 

[jerryb]

jump the speakers directly to the amp channel.
meaning, find the two wires before the capacitor junction under the door panel, down by where your left foot would be
find the purple and pink wires coming out the nav, amp, jump them together there. IF you get the same screetchy scratchy thing assume that channel is bad on the amp.
drivers side goes from amp, to nav, to speaker. purplepink.
passenger side is direct from am to speaker. not sure of color, same as 2004 online manual or any of wayy too many posts on here.

if you have a friend you could swap amps sort of quick and know immediately.
none of this is by the book or some educated engineer know how.

 

[Matt Hamilton]

jump the speakers directly to the amp channel.
meaning, find the two wires before the capacitor junction under the door panel, down by where your left foot would be
find the purple and pink wires coming out the nav, amp, jump them together there. IF you get the same screetchy scratchy thing assume that channel is bad on the amp.
drivers side goes from amp, to nav, to speaker. purplepink.
passenger side is direct from am to speaker. not sure of color, same as 2004 online manual or any of wayy too many posts on here.

if you have a friend you could swap amps sort of quick and know immediately.
none of this is by the book or some educated engineer know how.

I can’t thank you enough. As I said I’m very familiar with the nuances of rovers and am getting quite comfortable with their wiring but any wiring with amps and auxiliary ins/outs I just am not that educated.

I’ll try your suggestion and let you know how it turns out.

 

[Matt Hamilton]

if you can still hear the stock nav voice from the front left, but no music through both fronts, assume amp is bad. Someone out there fixes those. I don't have any extras to check with.

I got to the amp this weekend. It is the JBL amp and there are two connectors going into it. The large 18-pin (I think?) is the one that is the power for the speakers. I could get the front speaks to work at their normal volumes by jiggling that connector and I could also get them to make that horrible screeching sound. It would appear that this connection, whatever all it controls and I know it had two power lines and the blue/pink wires, has gone bad.

I found a used one on ebay that I can return if this is not the issue, but I do feel like the amp has a bad board our output that is the issue.

Thank you again for sharing your knowledge!

 

[jerryb]

Hope it works out. Post if it doesn't, it you need wire, connectors or terminals etc

 

[Njck22]

You can have my jbl amp

 

[Matt Hamilton]

You can have my jbl amp

I was able to get one on eBay that is the exact model number for $60. If that doesn’t work I might take you up on that.
Are Toyota’s mainly what you work on? You sure know lots about them.

 

[Njck22]

I was able to get one on eBay that is the exact model number for $60. If that doesn’t work I might take you up on that.
Are Toyota’s mainly what you work on? You sure know lots about them.

I'm sure it would fit in a flat rate box just send a pm if you want it.
Pretty much everything I know came from reading jerry’s work. He’s the one who knows lot.

 

[Matt Hamilton]

I’ve heard of this Jerry guy.

 

[jerryb]

Haha. Thanks

 

[Matt Hamilton]

I'm not the first to do this, pucker5 posted a few days ago without pics. There was talk about it before, I just didn't try it. But I did today.

This comes from prius people and I found some other info from avalon forums also.
If you put a 68 ohm .5 watt resistor on the C plug pins 9 and 10, (blue and pink on 2006) everything works as it should and you can take the stereo out and put whatever you want in that slot.

The middle plug, C, has the tx wires, that's where the resistor goes. Blue and pink wires.
the other two plugs can stay unplugged. (A and B)

Obviously there are some conditions. The power antenna won't work. Put a fixed tundra antenna in. The rear seat audio won't work, delete it and put some UBS chargers in there. Steering wheel buttons won't work, Get the PAC universal for your aftermarket deck so they do. CD changer doesn't work also. That's it far as I know.

Personally I have a kenwood media shallow mount deck, a JL and a RF amp to two sets of speakers in the doors and a 10" punch sub in the back in it's own box.
I do not use the stock SUB wiring, sub box, or the HU stock wiring to the speakers at that connection.
I do use the stock speaker wires where they come out of the stock amp under the pass seat.
My stuff is wired as if it was a fresh install except using the speaker wiring at the output of the stock amp.

The point is that you can delete the OEM deck and all climate controls work the way they should.
I wish I had a female socket so I wouldn't have to cut the harness, but I did anyway and everything is fine.

I only use the display for back up cam. It never comes on except when in reverse. I put the climate screen on and took a pic so you guys could see. Everything works fine. I tested and measured before I cut the harness.

I'm going to alter the stock silver face to accept a ISO DIN HU maybe tomorrow.

Yes the bottom buttons work. defrost, rear AC etc.
View attachment 1370348 View attachment 1370349 View attachment 1370350 View attachment 1370351

I'm relying to this post because the pics you posted represent the exact Nav/Tuner unit I have in my 2006 Toy LC. My issue is that I have an issue that has affected my front speakers and it appears to be an issue somewhere in the Tuner or Nav connections.... a short or something that almost mutes the front speakers. Rear works fine. I replaced the AMP and it didn't correct the problem. I'd like to fix the issue and keep the stock system since everything else works fine. Is this why you went down the road you did with replacing the deck? Am I wasting my time trying to find the issue since the wiring involves the tuner, amp, nav, speakers, etc? Thanks!!!