68 ohm resistor to replace stereo on NAV equipped LC and LX (1 Viewer)

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I don't see why Metra 70-8113 would not work. I know that all the connection I used it for, it worked without a hitch, but I didn't use the RCAs, as I bypassed the amp.

Thanks @Njck22 . I ordered Axxess TYTO-01 Wiring Interface Connect a new car stereo and retain the factory JBL and JBL Synthesis® audio systems in select 2001-13 Toyota and Lexus vehicles at Crutchfield and was planning to chop it up and probably not use the Axxess thingy. I think I'll return it and order the one you suggested...
 
I don't see why Metra 70-8113 would not work. I know that all the connection I used it for, it worked without a hitch, but I didn't use the RCAs, as I bypassed the amp.

Did you go after market amp or straight to the speakers with the head unit pre-amp?
 
Interesting. I ordered some 68ohm resistors and was all set to test the climate controls still work with the 20 pin connector unplugged, but my 2002 with POS nav doesn't have a pin in slot 10. My '02 only has two connectors a 20 pin and a smaller one (not near it right now maybe 16?).

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@jerryb when you have time can you check the shop manual for your '06 and see what pins 9 & 10 are? I have the '02 manual and see if any of my various pins in the connector match.
 
Interesting. I ordered some 68ohm resistors and was all set to test the climate controls still work with the 20 pin connector unplugged, but my 2002 with POS nav doesn't have a pin in slot 10. My '02 only has two connectors a 20 pin and a smaller one (not near it right now maybe 16?).

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@jerryb when you have time can you check the shop manual for your '06 and see what pins 9 & 10 are? I have the '02 manual and see if any of my various pins in the connector match.
That connector provides power for your new radio and the speaker connections from your old amp. There is no data link wires there. Could you post pictures of your 02 manual, of the navigation system and audio system?
 
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Huh. Thanks for tip @Njck22. If I'm reading this correctly it looks like I can connect pins 5 & 15 on R1 to essentially circumvent the radio? This SST thing is basically a glorified paper clip from what I read elsewhere, eh? :)

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Looks like I was mistaken about the data link wires not being there! Yes I assume that SST is just a wire with a resistor on it. Connect those two pins with a resistor and you should be golden. You could cut them before they get to the metra harness and solder it in there, or order two metra adaptor and extract pins from one to add to the other one, and then Solder the resistor there, as I’m sure you’ve already figured.
 
Sweet! I have some Metra bits coming soon so I should be able to avoid any harness mangling and solder that resistor in as you mentioned... I'm gonna dig in some more tomorrow and test the resistor, fitment of the Pioneer head unit I bought and start scheming trimming the face plate to accommodate the new head unit.
 
Well, I'm missing something I guess because I connected TX+ (R1-5) to TX-(R1-15) and no dice. I got a message "Check the connection of the air conditioner". Leaving R35 unplugged and plugging R1 back in the climate controls work fine. So maybe I need to ground the circuit or something? I tried just a wire and also the resistor, but I'm pretty sure I can just use a wire (or paperclip) from reading other threads. Kinda at the limits of my current knowledge. Any ideas?
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Yeah I tried the 68ohm I had, but same result. I haven't actually found anywhere in the manual mentioning 68ohm's or anything like that so maybe it's a different resistor?
 
Well, it's working! Turns out was using the wrong holes, the upper instead of the smaller hole on the bottom where the pin actually resides. The 68 ohm resistor is indeed needed, but my climate control is working! I had ordered a Metra amp bypass harness from Crutchfield (Metra 70-8116 Amp Bypass Harness) and used the 20 pin connector which has the power, acc, ground and antenna pins and added pins 5 and 15 with the diode. Now I just need to pull the seat and run some speaker wire back to the head unit, plug the supplied connector to the amp connector (called S6 on my 2002) and see what happens ;)
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I got the thing installed. Still need to do a little trim work, but it sounds good. Nothing abnormal other than I removed the GPS/Nav ECU thing under the passenger seat only to realize I had no sound in the driver front speaker so I had to re-install it. Otherwise pretty straight forward and the Metra amp bypass harness worked great. I'd like to get it recessed some more, but when I tried the next hole forward on the unit I wasn't able to seat it.

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i guess the nav ecu receives the audio from the amp and pass thru or cuts it for voice nav. I feel like I remember seeing that in the manual. Good news is running new speaker wire to all or one door isnt hard, and might even improve over the small factory wires. That’s what I’ve done in my 100s
 
Looks like I need to ground the parking brake wire on the head unit (Pioneer AVH-3500NEX) since Android Auto and Firmware updates need to see that the parking brake is on. Guess I'll do that tomorrow. It's amazing how much better my sound is with the new head unit going straight to the speakers!
 
The one you have in the pic might operate like the avic nex ones do and have a developer mode that comes with it's own bypass
Search for nav bypass on pioneer forums.
It's like a long press and short press in the for corners type of thing.
It's worth a look.
 
@jerryb I actually recall seeing in the manual, at the beginning of the nav section, the two finger press technique to get into the diagnostic mode. At this point I'm fine with the nav ecu down under the seat. If I ever get motivated to install another amp I might look into yank that device. Thanks!
 
I was meaning being able to have all the audio and Bluetooth settings available while driving.

I probably shouldn't have said nav bypass, rather brake bypass.

Still I geoinded that wire on the body of the headunit anyway the last time I had it out.
Even though I had read it wasn't needed.
So it might save you from taking it out and grounding it if there is a software solution instead.
 
Unfortunately it appears the bypass trick using the quadrant long press doesn't work for AVH models as Pioneer has gotten smarter. I ordered a little bypass gadget that sends the right signal (it's timed I guess) and will install that when it arrives. AVH Parking Brake Bypass
 

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