DFXR
SILVER Star
For the 3-5 others out there who still listen to the radio:
My truck (2000 UZJ100) came with a bent, stuck mast and fried antenna motor (and a low-end Kenwood head). I wanted to replace the power antenna with a fixed mast with some flex to it. None of the parts store junk really works - mostly because the plastic bezel angles up top just don't match up. And they are generally ugly.
I found an old thread about using a 00-06 Tundra antenna assembly and mast. It worked for me and I am happy so I thought I would expand on it a little for those who want to go this way. It fits well, looks clean, and is Toyota. Pictures will follow.
Part numbers and prices
* 86300-0C010 2006 Tundra, Antenna Assy w/ holder $37.98 (this includes everything from top nut and bezel to cable)
* 86309-0C020 2006 Tundra, Pole sub-assy, pull (mast) $27.13
* 53879-60010 2000 LC, Retainer, front fender $0.78/each, get 10
* Generic 6' auto antenna extension cable ~$10
* 3-4" piece of thin scrap metal for mounting Tundra mast inside wheel well (see picture).
The short version:
Pull the old motor and antenna out, replace with the Tundra assembly and mast (requires a tiny little bit of metal fab to mount it inside the wheel well) and run the cable all the way to head using an extension. Aside from making the little mount, you can do the entire thing with a phillips, flathead and some pliers.
The long detailed version:
You'll need to pull your old antenna and motor assembly.
Unscrew the top (chrome) retainer nut at the base of the mast with some taped off pliers or channel lock.
Get to the motor through the front fender liner. I was able to pop out about 6 of the retainer nuts (all were destroyed, which is why these are on the parts list) and peel the plastic back enough to reach in there. I did it with the wheel on but turned hard to the right. Push up the plastic cover that shields the antenna motor, disconnect the power supply, and remove the bolt that holds the motor on the bracket. Save this bolt.
Now go to the interior and remove the passenger side kick panel. The antenna cable runs through the firewall from the motor assembly and there is a male to female connector in this area (see picture). Disconnect it and you can pull the motor, mast, and short section of cable out through the wheel well. Pull off the little rubber grommet for the pass-thru the and save it. Note that the female end of the connector remaining in the kick panel cavity will not work with any standard male antenna cable end – it is too narrow. You’re gonna have to go all the way to the head with your new cable.
At this point you can mount the Tundra antenna assembly. Push the main assembly up through the antenna hole, put the bezel in place, and install top nut/holder. Screw the mast in place – Toyota supplies a little plastic wrench with the mast for this.
Back inside the wheel well, you will need to make a little arm for the assembly to attach to the old antenna motor mount. Any little piece of metal with a couple holes will work. (See picture). I re-used the mounting bolt from the old antenna motor.
Now, you’re ready to fish the antenna cable through. I used the old grommet, because the Tundra cable has foam glued to parts of it and it was easier. You’ll see what I mean. Once you get the male end of the cable into the kick panel cavity it is time to route the extension cable to the back of the head.
Removing interior panels and parts for access is easy. I removed the glove box (two screws underneath), then the inner shield (three screws, middle and upper corners), being careful to unplug the dash light power supply. Then I pulled the dash/climate control/stereo surround (gently pry it off with a taped off flathead or trim remover) to get to the stereo. Four screws to remove the stereo, which I flipped upside down and placed on the dash (see picture). I ran the extension cable through the innards behind the glove box cavity and through to the head. Plug it in and put it all back together.
Pictures:
Tundra Antenna Assembly
view of passenger side kick panel cavity
6' generic antenna extension cable
My truck (2000 UZJ100) came with a bent, stuck mast and fried antenna motor (and a low-end Kenwood head). I wanted to replace the power antenna with a fixed mast with some flex to it. None of the parts store junk really works - mostly because the plastic bezel angles up top just don't match up. And they are generally ugly.
I found an old thread about using a 00-06 Tundra antenna assembly and mast. It worked for me and I am happy so I thought I would expand on it a little for those who want to go this way. It fits well, looks clean, and is Toyota. Pictures will follow.
Part numbers and prices
* 86300-0C010 2006 Tundra, Antenna Assy w/ holder $37.98 (this includes everything from top nut and bezel to cable)
* 86309-0C020 2006 Tundra, Pole sub-assy, pull (mast) $27.13
* 53879-60010 2000 LC, Retainer, front fender $0.78/each, get 10
* Generic 6' auto antenna extension cable ~$10
* 3-4" piece of thin scrap metal for mounting Tundra mast inside wheel well (see picture).
The short version:
Pull the old motor and antenna out, replace with the Tundra assembly and mast (requires a tiny little bit of metal fab to mount it inside the wheel well) and run the cable all the way to head using an extension. Aside from making the little mount, you can do the entire thing with a phillips, flathead and some pliers.
The long detailed version:
You'll need to pull your old antenna and motor assembly.
Unscrew the top (chrome) retainer nut at the base of the mast with some taped off pliers or channel lock.
Get to the motor through the front fender liner. I was able to pop out about 6 of the retainer nuts (all were destroyed, which is why these are on the parts list) and peel the plastic back enough to reach in there. I did it with the wheel on but turned hard to the right. Push up the plastic cover that shields the antenna motor, disconnect the power supply, and remove the bolt that holds the motor on the bracket. Save this bolt.
Now go to the interior and remove the passenger side kick panel. The antenna cable runs through the firewall from the motor assembly and there is a male to female connector in this area (see picture). Disconnect it and you can pull the motor, mast, and short section of cable out through the wheel well. Pull off the little rubber grommet for the pass-thru the and save it. Note that the female end of the connector remaining in the kick panel cavity will not work with any standard male antenna cable end – it is too narrow. You’re gonna have to go all the way to the head with your new cable.
At this point you can mount the Tundra antenna assembly. Push the main assembly up through the antenna hole, put the bezel in place, and install top nut/holder. Screw the mast in place – Toyota supplies a little plastic wrench with the mast for this.
Back inside the wheel well, you will need to make a little arm for the assembly to attach to the old antenna motor mount. Any little piece of metal with a couple holes will work. (See picture). I re-used the mounting bolt from the old antenna motor.
Now, you’re ready to fish the antenna cable through. I used the old grommet, because the Tundra cable has foam glued to parts of it and it was easier. You’ll see what I mean. Once you get the male end of the cable into the kick panel cavity it is time to route the extension cable to the back of the head.
Removing interior panels and parts for access is easy. I removed the glove box (two screws underneath), then the inner shield (three screws, middle and upper corners), being careful to unplug the dash light power supply. Then I pulled the dash/climate control/stereo surround (gently pry it off with a taped off flathead or trim remover) to get to the stereo. Four screws to remove the stereo, which I flipped upside down and placed on the dash (see picture). I ran the extension cable through the innards behind the glove box cavity and through to the head. Plug it in and put it all back together.
Pictures:
Tundra Antenna Assembly
view of passenger side kick panel cavity
6' generic antenna extension cable
